Cream injectors and fuel pressure confirmed at 50PSI (that's the '208 setting and should be darned close)? SBD Motorsport - 16v Vauxhall tuning Taper throttle kit fuel pressures
Tried swapping out the CTS? If it's the same as the '208 it uses the OEM one and they have been known to fail!
Did you set the throttle and air bleeds correctly - doing this wrong would stuff up the airflow to TPS relationship? SBD Motorsport - Multi-throttle balancing procedure
How did you set the TPS, it can be fiddley? SBD Motorsport - Multi-throttle kit fitting instructions

I really don't see the map being an issue, especially at idle, as then the airflow for maintaining the idle speed is about the same for both 'body designs, and so the fueling would be about the same.

 

Hi Gordo,

Many thanks for the reply.

Yes I am using the standard XE Cream injectors of the early distributor type C20XE which should be the correct type and fuel pressure set at 50PSI. The overall fuel gain is set to 74.

I have pluged in various coolant temp sensors and they all seem to be 100+ degrees, when the sensors are unplugged easimap always reads 90 degrees.

I should of mentioned that the current ECU was originally for a Westfield 1.8 Zetec (Still has the label on), but it now has a Vauxhall 2.0 16v C20XE base map (TP208 kit map). I'm pretty sure (Not 100%) that the calibration for the sensors is somewhere other than the Base map (Hence the strange CTS reading).

I set the TPS at 0.25v, screwed the throttle stop screw clockwise till 0.30v, started the engine and screwed the throttle stop clockwise till 0.37v as per instructions and throttle index map (0.0 = 0.37). Easimap shows that the tps is 0.37v and tps site is 0.0 at idle.

Many thanks, Nick

 

Ah, I wonder if there's an problem going from the Ford to the GM sensors?
If you can PM me your e-mail address, I'll send you what I have from my initial purchase of the 208 kit. I can't recall off hand which ECU it uses (it was bought in '98/'99), but it may have something to help you.

You did screw the airbleeds in, and all the rest, when setting the 'bodies up?

 

That would be excellent mate, i shall send you a PM now.

Yes all airbleeds where screwed right in to start with etc.

I would try a 1.8 Zetec Coolant temp sensor but cant seem to find the right one.

Cheers

 

I know before I had mine mapped the sbd base map on my mbe 9a4 ecu was very rich and retarded and ran like a sack of shit, stunk, kept boggin down and cutting out wasn't until I got it mapped properly them problems were resolved, I'd recommend getting it properly mapped and set up mate!!

 

Quick update on the coolant temp sensor problems:

When the ignition is turned on (Engine not started), the Air temp reads 11 Degrees and the Coolant temp reads 101 Degrees (Obviously 11 Degrees above 90 which makes it the same temperature as the Air Temp).

When I plug another Coolant Temp sensor into the loom but not in the engine it reads 104 degrees, when placed in a cup of boiling water (From the kettle so approx 99 degrees) the temperature starts to increase rapidly up until it reaches 130 degrees in which it stops and after a few seconds turns to 90 degrees up until the coolant temp sensor is removed from the water and left to cool then it slowly starts dropping back down from 130 degrees to around 104 degrees.

 

On a cold engine, the air and water temp's should be the same. As water boils at 100C, that there's a reading higher than that clearly demonstrates there's a significant issue somewhere - either the sender unit or the software. With the coolant sender disconnected, it should be reading a very low temperature - see if there's an option for selecting the coolant sender unit type in the software or the manual you should have received in the e-mails.

 

Have you solved the problem?

I have the same issue with my C20XE in my race car. Just installed the 225-kit from SBD. And with the TPS set to 0.37v it just wont idle, cold or hot. When I screw the throttle stop up to about 0.5 it idles by it self when hot. And the engine boggs down when applying throttle quick.

Do you thing this just is a mapping issue? I will get the car out on an airfield next week and a guy is mapping it for me. Could I do something else to ajust it before then?

Best regards/ Mattias

 

Did you do the initial setting for the pot - .25V with ignition, throttle stops backed off and engine not running?
If that isn't done, the ECU will be getting all sorts of errors for the apparent throttle position Vs true position?
If you haven't already got one, it's going to be a good idea to get the recommended type air flow meter so you can check the air consumption at idle is within spec', as if it isn't, it's suggestive of a setting up issue.
Checked the fuel pressure is correct - and that the fittings are the correct way round?

http://www.sbdev.co.uk/Info_sheets/...er instuctions Print All/2.0L VX Serial Ecu Taper Throttle Kit instructions.pdf

 

I did everythig that the instructions told me. But when I started the car up I couldn't keep it under 0.37v and get it to idle by itself. I kept adjusting the throttle stop screw until it did an than it read 0.5v. And the Airflow was at that point about 16, at 1150 rpm. It should be 5.5 at 980 rpm. But I don't know how to get it down since it wont idle any lower...