Could you tell me the fault code numbers found by Op-com - not the definitions but the numbers.

And about the crank sensor, the Y17DT is very fussy about it being a genuine part not some cheap aftermarket part - it really does make a difference. Plenty of posts saying an aftermarket crank sensor is a complete waste of money, either not working propely from the start or soon failing..

Strange that Op-com diagnostics doesn't work since changing the EDU. Did you keep your old EDU? You could check it for dry solder joints. Maybe try reflowing the dry solder joints and re-installing it but I don't see how the EDU would effect whether Op-com works. At least I haven't heard of that happening before.

I wonder if maybe something is up with the ECU. And yet you say it runs OK. Anyway, carefully check the ECU connectors. I have heard of pins getting corroded or bent and funny things happening as a result.

 

P0380-(4) glow device voltage low
P1631-(b) spill valve relay stuck closed
P0335-(4) no engine RPM signal
I got a new crank sensor from vauxhall spares in Romford fitted it and OPCOM wouldn't clear the fault code. I kept my original edu,since I notice my second hand edu wouldnt work on diagnostics I put the original one back on and it still wouldn't read diagnostics. The original edu I took apart but someones already had it apart I undone the screws for the computer board but it would come out it was stuck in there so I sealed it back up and left it. The ecu connectors are all fine. I can try a genuine crank sensor but I won't know if it is working properly because dignostics won't work. If the EML wasn't on you would think the van was fine,still nippy and reliable

 

Thanks for the codes. Ah so you did try the old EDU and still op-com wouldn't work. I think there might be something wrong with the op-com software or something.

From what I've read about it, the EDU circuit board doesn't have to come out at all. Just reflow the dry solder joints visible from the exposed surface of the PCB. Here's a pic of the most common spot (although I have heard of 3 spots):



Disconnecting your battery for a while should work to clear the codes. Others with the Y17DT have told me that it works. Just try disconnecting the battery - I was told it doesn't take long at all, maybe 10 or 15 minutes is enough. Then drive and see if the EML comes on again at some point. If it does you could do the peddle test to see what new codes are there.

 

p.s. here's another pic of the same solder joint only this one looks nice and tidy, but still a dry solder joint. I repaired a dry joint like that on our dishwasher PCB on its been fine ever since. Have to have very clean surfaces, use flux and go very easy with a soldering iron though...

 

I'd also do the other three posts that look similar, the one directly below it looks like it could possibly have fractured on the solder joint as well.

 

I've tried disconnecting the battery and putting it back on, every time I turn the ignition on the EML stays on. Sometimes the EML will go off for afew seconds and go back on, I tried the peddle test lastnight the code was P0335 which is no rpm signal and I will take the edu apart again and look at the joint. Signs are showing that my diesel pump is on its way out is there a sensor on it I can change before getting a new pump. Many thanks

 

From what you have said I don't think there are any signs that your pump is on the way out. You just have a recurring P0335 fault code which suggests crank sensor. I don't know whether the sensor you got from Romford Vauxhall spares is genuine or not.

If you installed an aftermarket sensor that would very likely probably be the problem. This very thing comes up all the time. I think you will have to buy a new genuine crank sensor from Vauxhall.

Also, there have also been posts about difficulties installing the genuine crank sensor correctly. I gather from the descriptions I have read that there is some play in it, so it can be a little fussy getting it just right. I also read that the hole where it goes should be cleaned out as bits of swarf or something can end up in there.

Even though the only faulty code you now have is for crank sensor it wouldn't hurt to inspect the EDU for dry joints as above. But you now have no fault code indicating any problem there.

 

Hi Dom,

I saved the pics a few years ago from posts by people who had failed solder joints. Figured they might be of some use to the OP on here.

As it turns out I think he just needs to install a brand new genuine crank sensor.

Cheers, Paul

 

Checked crankshaft sensor it was fine checked the soulder on the edu and they were ok so I paid to have tech2 done on the van it came back as wireing loom checked the loom and we're the bloke put a engine in the van he messed around with one of the plugs and rewired it all wrong. I rewired it myself to the right wires and now the lights gone off and the vans running all fine again. Thanks for the help

 

Well spotted incorrect wiring - and well done rewiring correctly. I'm amazed it worked at all and gave only a couple of fault codes.