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Discussion starter · #21 ·
Thanks for the positive comments everyone.

We've made a bit more progress getting the car put together.
Got the batttery mounted behind my seat. Had to weld a small fin in place to form a flat surface for the battery tray to mount to.

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Got the washer bottle mounted, the cage triangulation stops it going back in exactly the original position. Mounted the expansion tank, the original mounting was on the scuttle which was removed to give room and clearance for theTBs. Fitted a mount for the isolator and extinguisher T handles. Also got part of the revised heater air intake pipe fitted.

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Set abaout lightening the doors. We weighed a standard door which was over 36kg, the lightened one is 13.5kg.

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Started fitting aluminium panels to the dashboard ready for the instruments, switches, fuses etc to mount to (they won't be staying silver!).

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Getting to the point we need the engine back so we can start routing wiring and fuel lines etc.
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
Just back from being away on holiday for a bit so the car hasn't progressed over the past few weeks but Pete has made a start with the loom.
Stripped out what isn't needed from an original loom such as wires to original instruments, engine & management, headlight adjusters, fuses/relays, connectors etc., etc.

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Next step is to fit it into the dash along with the new switches and fuses etc and have connectors ready for the front and rear looms.

Instrumentation will be by this:

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Also whilst I was away, the 1400 engine was finished and picked up from Protec:


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Don't know the full spec yet but she was into the 180s on the dyno.:) It will be interesting to see what power remains once in the car.


Also collected at the same time were the manifold and the massivveeee shafts:

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Hopefully finish work on the shell this weekend (engine mounts, slam panel and a few other bits) then get it off for blasting and painting.
 
Looking good, really like my Racetech dash very neat and tidy.

Engine looks like a Bill Falconer motor if it is you wont be dissapointed. Just one daft thing alloy sump ive had one crack and so has a mate of mine, we now have steel 1400 sump which is baffeld as standard, i assume because you have a welded boss on the sump your also using Protec breather?
 
engine looks nice, good idea with the spring on the dipstick, that'll be getting copied!!! as will the stand if my engine doesnt come with one. 180 sound excellent but i wouldnt fancy the bill...

how much were the shafts just out of interest? that'll be the next upgrade on my agenda after car is build, shafts hubs and bigger diff.
 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
Looking good, really like my Racetech dash very neat and tidy.

Engine looks like a Bill Falconer motor if it is you wont be dissapointed. Just one daft thing alloy sump ive had one crack and so has a mate of mine, we now have steel 1400 sump which is baffeld as standard, i assume because you have a welded boss on the sump your also using Protec breather?

Yeah, using the Protec breather, by all accounts a necessity when you start pushing these engines. The engine was built by them too. Looked at Bill Falconer but we went with Protec, no reason really just that we use Alan for pretty much everything else and the service is always spot on. Never heard a bad word for Bill Falconer though either, unlike some of the horror stories you hear about some of the larger engine builders.
Always preferred a steel sump as it bends rather than cracks if impacted, don't know the reasoning behind the alloy sump, I'll ask him! Out of interest what caused the cracks?

The dash is a great solution and when you price up seperate instruments it's similar money, plus it does so much more and looks great. Good back up service with it too. Linking it to the MBE.
Anything I need to look out for with it?


kennybarbour
Re: Corsa Rally Car
engine looks nice, good idea with the spring on the dipstick, that'll be getting copied!!! as will the stand if my engine doesnt come with one. 180 sound excellent but i wouldnt fancy the bill...

how much were the shafts just out of interest? that'll be the next upgrade on my agenda after car is build, shafts hubs and bigger diff.
The engine was for free, it came with a really expensive stand and spring...lmao
Good little added touches though, proper service.

I think the shafts were ÂŁ350ish each, plus the hub machining and bearings (ÂŁ100ish each I think), F20 drive flanges (got for a few beers) and F20 diff. Plus you want a couple of spare shafts! We used to break shafts on a standard 1400 with no diff. so would do well to even finish a stage without doing it now. When you're spending ÂŁ450 on event entry fees alone and trying to win championships it's a wise investment. Though I wonder how long our F13 box will last....:doh:
 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
I need some info on engine mounts please.

We have a type 1 corsa B body shell, what options are there for competition/upgraded mounts?
There are lots of options for the type 2 body (we used the Hockley mounts on the last car with no problems) but I'm struggling to find a simple solution for the type 1 setup we now have.
Do Nova competition mounts work/fit the type 1 shells?
I've considered cutting the inner wings/legs open to accomodate the type 2 Hockley mounts and install captive nuts but am concious of positioning them correctly and the robustness, anyone got any info or experience of doing this?

The engine is a 1400 16v without a power steering pump and the current box is a F13 (though when it breaks will probably change to an F20). They need to be propper/decent mounts as the car will be used on gravel stages and power is in the 180's.

For clarity the pictures below show the two shell types:

ok so there are 2 types of mount that i know of which are:

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Type 1

and

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Type 2
 
You can use a vibra-technics rear mount either road (vxl203m) or comp (vxl204mx) versions are available but as far as i'm aways and have seen you can't get solid type 1 mounts for engine or gearbox :(
 
When I did one recently, if you remove the bumper you will see the reincforement for the type 2 mount inside the wing. Working with a grinder you can remove the spotwelds for the type 1 mount and then carefully cut out the hole and drill for some rivnuts.
 
both alistair and i are in the process of getting solid type one mounts made, as we both prefer the idea of retaining standard parts and neither of us fancy welding in our own mounts, seems to me to be the easier, more logical option.
 
Discussion starter · #37 ·
Bit the bullet and fitted a set of type 2 hockely mounts.

Drilled out the spot welds to the original mounts and ground back the additional welds that I'd done with the seams.

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The o/s mount wasn't bad to do, welded in the threaded bosses that go through the leg and cut out the inside face of the leg where the bush sits. There is already a strengthening plate inside the leg ready for a type 2 mount.

The n/s was a bit more of a pain as there's nothing there already to fix to. Needed to slide a plate up the inside of the leg with a captive nut and welded it in place for the top fixing. Then had to fab a peice for the bottom fixing as there was nothing here to mount to.

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Cut the slam panel out ready for the air induction kit

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mounts look good, protec have my mounts now so im waiting to hear back if they have a solution or not. if not i'll copy you and get the hockley kit, altho theyre very pricey.

is that a fibreglass ducting kit you have? if so where from and how much? as i want one, protec only list carbon on the website.
 
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