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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm finishing off the wiring for my Nexia Ecotec but I'm getting the flashing engine management light
I took a chance and bought the engine, ECU, transponder, key and wiring loom as a job lot from ebay
The seller admitted it had been standing, out of the car, for about 4 months but it seems to crank easy on the key ( yes, I had a new oil filter and added oil... )
I can only assume the ECU, key and transponder match

I didn't have the original connector for the immobiliser but have found a suitable Molex connector and crimps
I'm also going on the assumption the number '1' stamped on the PCB denotes pin 1 ( furthest from transponder ring )
Can someone double-check my working?
( wiring is for 1997-on Astra Mk3 because my Vectra Haynes doesn't show immobiliser )
I'll do another beep and Volt test on everything as well just to make sure

My wire / Haynes wire / Function
PIN1 - <NONE> / Brown-Violet / Alarm ( not needed )
PIN2 - Green / Brown-Blue / Engine management light ( in parallel with ECU wire )
PIN3 - <NONE> / <NONE> / NO CONNECTION
PIN4 - Brown / Brown / Chassis ground ( negative )
PIN5 - Black / Black / Ignition ( switched positive power )
PIN6 - Blue / Blue-Red / Speed input ( from vehicle speed sensor to immobiliser )
PIN7 - Blue / Blue-Red / Speed output ( from immobiliser to ECU )
PIN8 - White / Brown-Red / Diagnostic pin3
PIN9 - Red / Red / Battery ( permanent positive )

On another note my ( cheapo ) code reader comes up with "Link Error!", but it works in my '51 Omega Y26SE
Would this just be a compatibility issue, or more likely a wiring issue?
 

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I have diagram for astra g 1998 x20xev

Pin 1 brown/Violet anti theft warning system

Pin 2 brown/blue instrument

Pin 4 brown ground instrument

Pin 5 black Ignition voltage

Pin 6 brown/white Diagnostic link

Pin 7 brown/white x2 connector instrument & body front

Pin 9 red main fuse f2 60a constant voltage

With plug facing towards you Pin 1 is on the left
 

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If you are going by vectra b 1998

Pin 1 brown/Violet anti theft warning system

Pin 2 brown/blue instrument

Pin 4 brown earth

Pin 5 black switch starter Ignition voltage

Pin 6 blue/red vechile speed signal

Pin 7 blue-red/blue-black engine control unit and x7 instrument panel and engine connector

Pin 8 brown/white Diagnostic link

Pin 9 red main fuse fv3 60a constant voltage
 

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pin 6 and 7 are usually the ones that confuse most people, as there next to each other, and both blue/red stripe.

pin 6 goes to the gearbox speed sensor
pin 7 goes to the ecu

as far as i can remember - pin 1, pin 2, pin 3 and pin 8 ... dont need to be hooked up.

also, test everything for continuity, between the transponder board contacts, and wire ends, to make sure your home brew connector, has a solid connection on all wires

Motor vehicle Audio equipment Rectangle Gas Automotive wheel system
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
* Update *

There are connections and Voltage on the ECU loom & immobiliser PCB where there should be and aren't any where they shouldn't be
The fact the engine light is flashing suggests the ECU is not dead
There is aluminium 'rusting' on the bottom of the ECU enclosure but I've had it open and the PCB appears clean with no obvious physical faults

I'm thinking the options are either
1. There is a problem with one or more of the ECU / Immobiliser / Key chip

Or ( probably more likely )
2. I've been had and one or more of the ECU / Immobiliser / Key don't match up

Can someone confirm the operation of the fuel pump in this situation?
When I turn on the ignition I can definitely hear the fuel pump whirr only for a short while, perhaps half a second
The engine management light works in the same way, solid for about half a second then starts flashing
 

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seems to me, youve wired the transponder side of it, in correctly.
double check the rest of it. ecu loom, engine loom, fuel pump relay.

so youve got the engine cranking. good place to start.

have you taped the chip to the edge of the transponder ring, to simulate a key in the barrel ?
is there fuel pressure, at the rail ?
are you getting a spark ?
are the injectors pulsing, when cranking ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Everything else is in place and engine cranks on key
I checked all wires from ECU and there is continuity or Voltage where there should be according to my later model Vectra Haynes ( '99 to '02, not '95 to '98 ) so ECU loom is definitely Vectra-B
This also matches Haynes Omega-B and Astra-F

Code on ECU is 5WK9064 which ( Google ) checks out as Vectra-B X20XEV
Immobiliser is wired to Haynes Omega-B and Astra-F ( same ) as not shown in Vectra-B
Immobiliser wires tested at PCB terminals
ECU wires tested at connector only because difficult to check at ECU PCB terminals without help

I've tried key held through hole as if in ignition, wafted over ring to simulate key turn, pressed right up to ring and slotted behind

Haven't checked fuel pressure because fuel pump operates for only the short time before engine light flashing ( I'll try releasing any pressure to see if it operates differently )
Haven't checked spark yet but assume it won't be there because of immobiliser
Haven't checked injectors, thinking same as spark
 

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quick and dirty way, to test if you have spark, is to spray a couple toots of brake cleaner down the intake, and crank the engine over.
if it tries to make an attempt to fire, youve more than likely got a spark there, and the issue will be fuel related, or something else.
if nothing happens at all, just a flat, lifeless crank, then you probably have no spark.

if you have a brown/yellow stripe wire, from the ecu, you could try grounding that wire temporarily, while you turn the ignition on, to check for fault codes.

that ecu uses the old style 10 flash, repeating signal thing.
0053 here, for example.

0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 = 0
short pause
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 = 0
short pause
0 0 0 0 0 = 5
short pause
0 0 0 = 3

then you check P-0053, on a code list, to see what it is.

short pause between numbers.
longer pause, between each code.
10 flashes, is a zero.
 

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Just in case this may help, if on my X20XEV Calibra if the transponder chip is removed from the key, everything lights up on my dash but engine management lights starts to flash on/off, engine cranks, but won't fire. Hence why you are not able to start engine, as soon as i put the transponder back into the key, all is normal. Engine light remains steady and engine starts and lights goes off.

So this may well indicate your fear that your transponder chip may not be paired with the immobiliser circuit board.

As for wiring and colours, you seem to have wired correctly. Which I checked against Haynes Manual for Calibra 1997
 

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Just in case this may help, if on my X20XEV Calibra if the transponder chip is removed from the key, everything lights up on my dash but engine management lights starts to flash on/off, engine cranks, but won't fire. Hence why you are not able to start engine, as soon as i put the transponder back into the key, all is normal.

So double check by opening the key whether there is a transponder inside, that it has not fallen out somehow, secondly did you get the matching steering column module with the keys, have you tried both the keys, as one may not have the transponder.

As for wiring colour, I could check them for you based on my Calibra 1997

Also make sure the sensing coil or the surround that goes around the ignition switch is wired to the board otherwise the ignition surround coil won't pick up the transponder or communicate with it to read the transponder chip.
 

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One thing you can do is to try the keyfob and ignition collar with its immobiliser circuit on another running car, if you know someone locally or you could post it to someone willing to test it for you, this may prove your transponder is either paired correctly or not.
 
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