ST200 #0005 is alive!
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Joined
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1,774 Posts
6 April 2016
A little more completed this evening with the centre intake on and looking more like an engine bay. I’m cleaning everything as I go so it’s taking me a bit of time.
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Pleased with the EGR cast pipe refurb as the silver was flaking and looked horrible so used the same VHT black I used on the calipers.
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A little more completed this evening with the centre intake on and looking more like an engine bay. I’m cleaning everything as I go so it’s taking me a bit of time.
Pleased with the EGR cast pipe refurb as the silver was flaking and looked horrible so used the same VHT black I used on the calipers.
Joined
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1,774 Posts
7 April 2016
Washed a couple of the fleet and sorted some fencing this evening so not much done on the Vectra but I have managed to fit the rear plenum and plumb and clip everything on.
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I also dug the downpipes out my shed and will be fitting tomorrow.
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Washed a couple of the fleet and sorted some fencing this evening so not much done on the Vectra but I have managed to fit the rear plenum and plumb and clip everything on.
I also dug the downpipes out my shed and will be fitting tomorrow.
Joined
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1,774 Posts
8 April 2016
Front pipes on, bit fiddly as you have to make sure it’s aligned correctly on the front and rear manifold studs while fighting with the cat weighing it down on the other end laying on your back.
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Top end completed but still have brake and clutch bleeding to sort.
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Front pipes on, bit fiddly as you have to make sure it’s aligned correctly on the front and rear manifold studs while fighting with the cat weighing it down on the other end laying on your back.
Top end completed but still have brake and clutch bleeding to sort.
Joined
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1,774 Posts
10 April 2016
Brakes bled and then some head scratching as I couldn’t figure out why the clutch system wouldn’t bleed. More head scratching and bingo, found it. I replaced the brake reservoir years ago and doing so you only need to bleed the brakes and some muppet, namely myself, hadn’t cut the end of the clutch master cylinder feed….d’oh!!!
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Chop chop…
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…and low and behold it now has fluid flowing to the clutch system.
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My ST200 logbook has it registered on 28th April 1997 but I noticed a while ago it was obviously on the production line at Rüsselsheim on 10th December 1996 as some kind German scratched the date into the slam panel.
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It’s beginning to look like a proper car once more as the front end was built back up and the front arch liners fitted. All looking nice and fresh at the front end.
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Brakes bled and then some head scratching as I couldn’t figure out why the clutch system wouldn’t bleed. More head scratching and bingo, found it. I replaced the brake reservoir years ago and doing so you only need to bleed the brakes and some muppet, namely myself, hadn’t cut the end of the clutch master cylinder feed….d’oh!!!
Chop chop…
…and low and behold it now has fluid flowing to the clutch system.
My ST200 logbook has it registered on 28th April 1997 but I noticed a while ago it was obviously on the production line at Rüsselsheim on 10th December 1996 as some kind German scratched the date into the slam panel.
It’s beginning to look like a proper car once more as the front end was built back up and the front arch liners fitted. All looking nice and fresh at the front end.
Joined
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1,774 Posts
12 April 2016
Stripped and clean under the scuttle panel.
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Then built it all back up.
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I had all the metal wheel valves replaced a couple of weeks ago as they were leaking. Dug them out of storage in the conservatory and closer to the end goal, fitted back on the car.
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Stripped and clean under the scuttle panel.
Then built it all back up.
I had all the metal wheel valves replaced a couple of weeks ago as they were leaking. Dug them out of storage in the conservatory and closer to the end goal, fitted back on the car.
Joined
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1,774 Posts
23 April 2016
Bit of a milestone last and the Vectra started first turn of the key and seems to be happy with the new flywheel and clutch. I’ve decided to pop it down the side of the house under the car port so I can have more room to get the rest of the bits sorted before its back on the road. Bonnet isn’t in the picture but it got refitted last night thanks to my wonderful assistant, the wife.
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Bit of a milestone last and the Vectra started first turn of the key and seems to be happy with the new flywheel and clutch. I’ve decided to pop it down the side of the house under the car port so I can have more room to get the rest of the bits sorted before its back on the road. Bonnet isn’t in the picture but it got refitted last night thanks to my wonderful assistant, the wife.
Joined
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1,774 Posts
25 April 2016
I had a poor feeling gear change so checked the pivot linkage and all was good that end. I then found lots of slop with the gear stick caused by wear on the ball meaning flat spots. You can just make them out below, top and bottom to the right of the ball.
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I had a dig through my spares and found I had an Astra G stick with a perfect ball so swapped everything over and fitted it. Feels a bit short but I’ll see how I go with it and keep as I’ve got a standard height stick so can swap it back if needs be.
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I got the car back into default position, on axle stands.
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Had tweak of the exhaust and the tail pipes are finally level.
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I had a poor feeling gear change so checked the pivot linkage and all was good that end. I then found lots of slop with the gear stick caused by wear on the ball meaning flat spots. You can just make them out below, top and bottom to the right of the ball.
I had a dig through my spares and found I had an Astra G stick with a perfect ball so swapped everything over and fitted it. Feels a bit short but I’ll see how I go with it and keep as I’ve got a standard height stick so can swap it back if needs be.
I got the car back into default position, on axle stands.
Had tweak of the exhaust and the tail pipes are finally level.
Joined
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1,774 Posts
25 April 2016
Then the rear hub fell off with a little help from me.
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The reason for the removal is to replace the rubber trailing arm front bush.
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I got these poly bushes about 8 years ago from Billing.
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The old bush was then removed by using any means necessary, copper grease applied and new bush fitted.
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I managed to get both sides completed yesterday and left the car on axles stands so I complete rear arch undersealing.
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Then the rear hub fell off with a little help from me.
The reason for the removal is to replace the rubber trailing arm front bush.
I got these poly bushes about 8 years ago from Billing.
The old bush was then removed by using any means necessary, copper grease applied and new bush fitted.
I managed to get both sides completed yesterday and left the car on axles stands so I complete rear arch undersealing.
Joined
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1,774 Posts
9 May 2016
The undersealing was completed last week, not a bad job to say I was laying on my back. It was perfectly fine under there before I started but another layer won’t harm things.
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Stripped the passenger door card as the large speak was playing up.
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All the edge of the speaker had deteriorated so no wonder it was playing up. Drivers side is perfectly fine.
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As long as things make a noise I’m not bothered what it sounds like so popped to my local scrappers and grabbed another OE speaker and promptly fitted it when I got home.
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Tested and door card fitted, all done.
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Car is now ready and the MOT is booked for Sat 21st May.
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The undersealing was completed last week, not a bad job to say I was laying on my back. It was perfectly fine under there before I started but another layer won’t harm things.
Stripped the passenger door card as the large speak was playing up.
All the edge of the speaker had deteriorated so no wonder it was playing up. Drivers side is perfectly fine.
As long as things make a noise I’m not bothered what it sounds like so popped to my local scrappers and grabbed another OE speaker and promptly fitted it when I got home.
Tested and door card fitted, all done.
Car is now ready and the MOT is booked for Sat 21st May.
Joined
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1,774 Posts
11 May 2016
I had totally forgot I asked my sticker man for these so popped and collected them after work today. They are printed on heat proof chrome vinyl with a clear laminate to protect the print.
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Both fitted so that’s the front brake overhaul fully completed.
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I had totally forgot I asked my sticker man for these so popped and collected them after work today. They are printed on heat proof chrome vinyl with a clear laminate to protect the print.
Both fitted so that’s the front brake overhaul fully completed.
Joined
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1,774 Posts
21 May 2016
Had my first drive down the street and back to confirm all was working prior to the MOT which I had rearranged for yesterday.
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I’m pleased to say it passed the MOT but it wasn’t without drama. The fuel pump got louder and louder so I nursed it to the MOT fine but on the way home it played up and I had to stop for a couple of mins before it would play ball. I got it home and fitted my last spare pump so hopefully that’s all sorted now. I’ll be grabbing tax next month as I’ve got no plans to us it until June anyway.
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Had my first drive down the street and back to confirm all was working prior to the MOT which I had rearranged for yesterday.
I’m pleased to say it passed the MOT but it wasn’t without drama. The fuel pump got louder and louder so I nursed it to the MOT fine but on the way home it played up and I had to stop for a couple of mins before it would play ball. I got it home and fitted my last spare pump so hopefully that’s all sorted now. I’ll be grabbing tax next month as I’ve got no plans to us it until June anyway.
Joined
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1,774 Posts
5 June 2016
Taxed the ST200 on Friday evening as I had wheel alignment booked for Saturday at MG Auto Motorsport. I’ve never used them before and I was extremely impressed with their attitude and workmanship, all of which was top notch.
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Got the car on the ramps easily without any bumper scraping as my ST200 is one of the very early models with the lower front springs and it sits silly low.
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While on the ramps I checked for leaks and couldn’t resist a better pic of my hand brushed underseal. All looks spot on under there and best of all no leaks.
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As expected the alignment was miles out as the drive there was horrible with everything requiring adjustment.
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It might handle perfectly but the drive isn’t good as the spare fuel pump I fitted is also screeching much like the previous one, both of these were second hand GM items so that’ll teach me. I’ve now purchased a brand new direct replacement Sytec model no. ITP318.
Taxed the ST200 on Friday evening as I had wheel alignment booked for Saturday at MG Auto Motorsport. I’ve never used them before and I was extremely impressed with their attitude and workmanship, all of which was top notch.
Got the car on the ramps easily without any bumper scraping as my ST200 is one of the very early models with the lower front springs and it sits silly low.
While on the ramps I checked for leaks and couldn’t resist a better pic of my hand brushed underseal. All looks spot on under there and best of all no leaks.
As expected the alignment was miles out as the drive there was horrible with everything requiring adjustment.
It might handle perfectly but the drive isn’t good as the spare fuel pump I fitted is also screeching much like the previous one, both of these were second hand GM items so that’ll teach me. I’ve now purchased a brand new direct replacement Sytec model no. ITP318.
Joined
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1,774 Posts
9 June 2016
New Sytec ITP318 fuel pump arrived yesterday. It’s a direct replacement and requires no modification to fit the Vectra B so I cracked on and got it installed.
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First of all find the fuel rail pressure release valve and using tissue or cloth press it in to release all pressure from the fuel line, V6 valve show below.
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Under the rear seats you’ll find a plastic cover that gives access to the in-tank pump.
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Removing the cover you’ll see this.
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Now press the plastic tabs in and pull the fuel lines off, expect some fuel spillage but not much, also remove the loom plug. Gently tap the steel ring and once free wiggle and pull gently on the metal pipes poking out the top.
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You’ll now be in the fuel tank so release the rubber feed pipe from the metal top and remove the pump wiring from the fuel pump. Then press the three plastic tabs and pull the pump assembly from the.
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Carefully press the three inner plastic tabs and the pump will be free.
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Old verse new, identical so all good.
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Assembly is the reversal and really easy. With the new pump in the carrier I popped it all back in the car. Tested with Opcom by latching the fuel pump relay to prime and fuel rail and remove all air as a bit too late to start the car last night. Test drive tonight so fingers crossed the fuel pump issue is finally sorted.
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New Sytec ITP318 fuel pump arrived yesterday. It’s a direct replacement and requires no modification to fit the Vectra B so I cracked on and got it installed.
First of all find the fuel rail pressure release valve and using tissue or cloth press it in to release all pressure from the fuel line, V6 valve show below.
Under the rear seats you’ll find a plastic cover that gives access to the in-tank pump.
Removing the cover you’ll see this.
Now press the plastic tabs in and pull the fuel lines off, expect some fuel spillage but not much, also remove the loom plug. Gently tap the steel ring and once free wiggle and pull gently on the metal pipes poking out the top.
You’ll now be in the fuel tank so release the rubber feed pipe from the metal top and remove the pump wiring from the fuel pump. Then press the three plastic tabs and pull the pump assembly from the.
Carefully press the three inner plastic tabs and the pump will be free.
Old verse new, identical so all good.
Assembly is the reversal and really easy. With the new pump in the carrier I popped it all back in the car. Tested with Opcom by latching the fuel pump relay to prime and fuel rail and remove all air as a bit too late to start the car last night. Test drive tonight so fingers crossed the fuel pump issue is finally sorted.
Joined
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1,774 Posts
9 June 2016
This evenings drive has proven a success and the new fuel pump has sorted the issue. Car feels lovely and sold on the road and drives really nice with the new billet flywheel. After a cruise around I took a couple of pics before popping it down the drive.
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The old girl meets the older girl. The Vectra meets our daily drive Cavalier Cesaro, all 1800cc of SPi goodness.
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This evenings drive has proven a success and the new fuel pump has sorted the issue. Car feels lovely and sold on the road and drives really nice with the new billet flywheel. After a cruise around I took a couple of pics before popping it down the drive.
The old girl meets the older girl. The Vectra meets our daily drive Cavalier Cesaro, all 1800cc of SPi goodness.
Joined
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1,774 Posts
12 June 2016
Had the aircon fully checked and re-gassed on Friday by a chap I’ve used in the past so big thanks to Daryl from AC/DC Air Conditioning as it’s now icy cold. If you’re based in the Notts/Derby area he comes highly recommended and offers a fully mobile service. All the common issues were checked and his opening comments made me laugh “Crikey, I better go get my gloves!”.
I felt the clutch pedal was high and found the plastic clevis was loose on the end of the master cylinder push rod. The push rod does have a knurled end for the plastic to grip but for whatever reason it had become loose and the cruise control switch was fully depressed. As a permanent fix I’ve now glued the clevis on pulled the switch plunger out as far as it will go. The pedal now sits a fraction lower than the brake so all sorted.
You can see the brown clevis after I had reassembled everything.
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Pedals sit nicely now.
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Had the aircon fully checked and re-gassed on Friday by a chap I’ve used in the past so big thanks to Daryl from AC/DC Air Conditioning as it’s now icy cold. If you’re based in the Notts/Derby area he comes highly recommended and offers a fully mobile service. All the common issues were checked and his opening comments made me laugh “Crikey, I better go get my gloves!”.
I felt the clutch pedal was high and found the plastic clevis was loose on the end of the master cylinder push rod. The push rod does have a knurled end for the plastic to grip but for whatever reason it had become loose and the cruise control switch was fully depressed. As a permanent fix I’ve now glued the clevis on pulled the switch plunger out as far as it will go. The pedal now sits a fraction lower than the brake so all sorted.
You can see the brown clevis after I had reassembled everything.
Pedals sit nicely now.
Joined
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1,774 Posts
17 June 2016
Having installed the uprated rear trailing arm bushes the other month something caught my attention. The rear nearside wheel bearing seemed dry as it seemed to spin forever. This led me to believe it was getting dry and on its way out. It got through the MOT but on further checking if you really tried wiggling the wheel with force it had an incy wincy smidge of play. So the work began and the hub was removed.
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I stripped everything off the back plate and cleaned it all with brake cleaned before reassembling the handbrake shoes.
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New rear hub ready for fitting. These are an all in one unit with bearing, ABS sensor and hub.
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New hub sat in position on backplate. You can leave the handbrake shoes in position when fitting a new hub but my old one didn’t want to let go after being sat comfortably there for 19 years. Stripped it all down, left soaking in WD40, patience, swearing and a large hammer freed the old.unit.
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Disk fitted and ready for install back on the car.
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Job done and all refitted with handbrake adjusted.
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Having installed the uprated rear trailing arm bushes the other month something caught my attention. The rear nearside wheel bearing seemed dry as it seemed to spin forever. This led me to believe it was getting dry and on its way out. It got through the MOT but on further checking if you really tried wiggling the wheel with force it had an incy wincy smidge of play. So the work began and the hub was removed.
I stripped everything off the back plate and cleaned it all with brake cleaned before reassembling the handbrake shoes.
New rear hub ready for fitting. These are an all in one unit with bearing, ABS sensor and hub.
New hub sat in position on backplate. You can leave the handbrake shoes in position when fitting a new hub but my old one didn’t want to let go after being sat comfortably there for 19 years. Stripped it all down, left soaking in WD40, patience, swearing and a large hammer freed the old.unit.
Disk fitted and ready for install back on the car.
Job done and all refitted with handbrake adjusted.
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