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Jenolite or Kurust?

  • Kurust

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  • Jenolite

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Rust treatment - Jenolite or Kurust

54K views 23 replies 15 participants last post by  Greydj 
#1 · (Edited)
I have got some surface rust underneather the car which i want to treat before I give it a coating of 3M bodyschutz any opinions on the two choices?
 
#3 ·
The only way to remove rust is to do just that remove the rust!

Use a grinder and grind back to clean metal. Then check there are no tiny pin holes. If so then you will have to remove the affected area and weld in new metal. This however isn't always enough!!

I speak from experience. Working in a body shop you get the odd old banger but worse than that are the rich boys with really old porkers and prancing donkeys. The cars can be worth a fortune and they get charged a fortune aswell so you have to do a shi1thot job! Very time consuming and boring!:rolleyes:

Jimbo (classical restoration expert:D )
 
#7 ·
I've used kurust and in my opinion its crap! took it right down to bare fresh metal, used 2 coats, primed it, spayed it and in 6 months it came back faster!!

On the mini i used 'red lead' if you can get it, it works a treat.
 
#8 ·
Well so far I've only used kurust on a few bits and bobs and personally so far I've had no problems with. Don't forget that you're not supposed to completely remove the rust with this stuff. it's applied directly to it. It seems probably best not to use it, okilydokily. As i said, it's only surface stuff and am not too worried about it, but i want to sort it before covering it with the 3M stuff which is the dogs danglies.
 
#10 ·
I would not bother with either. I wasted time trying that stuff. There is no substitute for removing the rust. Next best thing, which can last years, wire brush/grind/sand most of the rust off, use a high zinc primer, Davids, or whatever. Look at the zinc content on the tin. Many are low zinc, as zinc is toxic. Let it dry for 24 hours, perhaps 2 coats, then prime, paint and underseal, etc.
You must paint on top of the zinc primer, as primer is not waterproof. Zinc really does protect the metal underneath.
 
#16 ·
Always found Kurust o do the job myself. But if you leave it at that then it'll just come back, Once you've rubbed down and kurusted then you need to seal it. The best thing for this if it's hidden is smoothrite. No air-no rot. If it's anything more than general surface rust it's best to cut it out but then seal the new metal before it starts to rust as well.
 
#17 ·
Yeah it will be hidden as it's underneath the car. The genral plan was to overhaul everything underneath, rearbeam off etc.

Generally I was looking at:

General rust removal - all loose
Rust treatment
Anti-rust paint
3M Bodyschutz - whole of underneath on chassis
 
#18 ·
i've used jenolite twice, one treatment lasted 2 years and still looked spot on when the car was sold, rust never came back.

BUT, i got rid of all the rust with glasspaper and used the jenolite to seal the metal. i used it as a prevention not a cure.

i'm sure the zinc thing would work better, (preferential corrosion), but jenolite works fine.
 
#19 ·
Did you know that you can use zinc as a sacrificial metal if you have a leak in your car??

If your boot leaks chuck a bit of zinc here there and everywhere and gasp as it corrodes:eek: :eek: :eek: and your boot floor doesn't:D :D :D

Yet another boring tip from the bodyshop trade..........
 
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#23 ·
I can't find this high zinc primer in local shops any more (I suggested this in 2002!), I assume it has been banned. Tools have come down a lot in price. All I can suggest is proper removal. I have had good results with a spot (sand) blaster attachement to a compressor. Good for small areas of solid metal. Might warp a panel, or blister paint with the heat though.
 
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