[DarrenH]

is this advisable ? all i can see happening without a rehone is the rings taking longer to bed in, or not at all.

just trying to strike a balance between making my car stop liberating oil into the atmosphere without being "off the road" for too long. slapping new rings in is a weekend job, rebore/hone pistons and rings is obviously rebuild tastic. there isnt major lippage at the top of the bores, probably less than the average 140k'er. last time teh head was off i could still see hone marks down the bores.

 

[tomstickland]

I'm sure the Haynes manual says that you can roughen the surface with emery paper.

Drop the pistons out with the engine in the car, roughen surface, refit.

Rather you than me though!

 

[Gary]

you *must* have a rehone - once whatever roughness hone there is gone, the rings will never ever bed in and people will still take the mick out your blue smoke, just as bad as ever

don't take any chances, do it propa job like... you can do it with wet and dry, but you ought to get a 3 legged jobber at least - best of all is a proper plateau honer, but they're expensive - so unless you can borrow one, it's 3-2-1 activate diy.

make sure you run the rings in aggressively.. plenty of heavy foot action, just to be sure.

 

[Cemesis]

Could you get another Block like Tom did?

 

[Gary]

I think he's just wants to fix his cleanly challenged exhaust gas with the minimum muckingaboutage.

 

[DarrenH]

its pot 2 thats at fault really. i know this because 1, 3 and 4 spark plugs are all misty buff, however, plug 2 begins to get fouled with flakey white scale which bares a striking resemblance to the haynes manuals "excessive upper cylinder lubricant" picture guide.

the engines running like a sack of sh-t, burning oil, realistically making not much more power than standard, its sad

i did offer to buy matt J's spare block but hes umming and arring about that.

 

[Gary]

anything show on the CT ?

 

[PhilM]

it's 3-2-1 activate diy.

*Runs to alert the local hospital that Pooley has muttered them imortal phrase*

 

[DarrenH]

ive yet to do one, or rather ive yet to buy a guage and or track down one with a long enough hose. but i can guess the results.

 

[Gary]

no, I ***c up other peoples engines nowadays Phil lmao.... other peoples engines......

 

[Vauxnova]

Cheers:beer:

 

[Vauxnova]

http://www.justoffbase-tools.co.uk/tools.asp?parent=2I4330P1214M0

summat like this do for my 16xe?

 

[Vauxnova]

or will this be better
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/product.asp?p=040210259

 

[Gary]

second one

+ a variable speed drill

'proper' engine builders will shudder at these things, but they do work just fine.

 

[Vauxnova]

Got a pic of what the bores should look life afterwards?

 

[PhilM]

no, I ***c up other peoples engines nowadays Phil lmao.... other peoples engines......

 

[DarrenH]

why did you choose the second one gary ? just because the first one only goes to 65mm, or something else ?

 

[JohnA]

is this advisable ?

no

all i can see happening without a rehone is the rings taking longer to bed in, or not at all.

They won't bed at all.
It might actually burn oil worse than now

slapping new rings in is a weekend job, rebore/hone pistons and rings is obviously rebuild tastic. ..

Not with the three-prong thingie.
I've never used it before (bit too slap-dash if you think about it) but if you want to change the rings with the block in situ, there's no other way.

We need more gen on the crosshatch pattern and any idiosyncracies of these rings. :beer:

 

[Gary]

the second one has longer stones on the legs, and yes, will reach wider - the first one wouldn't be big enough - that looks like a bike one or something.

I would only ever use the tripod wassit if I were honing for standard rings on a 'low spec' engine (i.e standard CR, < 230bhp ) - if I were dropping omegas in there (i.e moly ring) it'd be after a 'proper' rebore and shop hone.

the tripod will do your bores fine if you're putting in pattern or GM rings - but remember they're techinically a glaze breaker - they're not sold as a 'honing' tool per se - but that's what they do, when they're wielded correctly.

basically, they work best at power screwdriver speeds - and in and out the bores they go at the rate of a good 'slow shag' lmao

you're aiming for a 45 degree cross hatch that covers the bore nicely, but not overly densely.. that's where these 3 leggers fall down a bit as you have a trade off in how long it takes to do versus the coverage - if you're not reaching a certain area well then it shows the bore is worn out of shape - best to fill in poorly honed areas with 120grit wet n dry - you want to remove as little of the bore wall as possible - doing it this way is always a compromise as only a proper plateau hone will remove the smallest amount, and leave a shallow, yet coarse, hone

you really need a picture of a freshly honed bore from a shop to get the best idea.. it's not easy to describe it adequately.

like heads though, it's not a black art (but see comment about engine specs ), and it's easy enough.

just as important is the running in - a good hone is useless if you go and drive gently to scotland and back - you need a combination of high and low (overrun) cylinder pressures to get the rings biting into the bore, and that means only one thing..

 

[DarrenH]

and that means only one thing..

get mattJ to drive it, and get a golf tdi to cut him up.

thanks for the gen.

probably not gonna bodge it now. i could easily walk to work, which means engine out proper job.