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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
On a Tigra/Corsa/Nova?

Is it as simple as removing the castle nut and washer, getting the bearing out - grease up new bearing, putting new bearing in, and put washer & castle nut back on?

Tighten up hand tight, then undo 1/4 of a turn, so the washer can just move beneath the nut?

Is that correct?



Thanks


Olly
 

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15,237 Posts
castellated nut needs to be torqued 2 or 3 times & backed off in between each time, rest as you say is correct. Dont forget you need to press in the new bearing also (aswell as remove old one)
 

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check the haynes its piss easy. the rear bearing is made up of two bearings though - the front and the back ones. the rear os larger that the front. you will need to press out the outer races which will be a rreally tight fit into the drum bore and replace with the new bearings from there. remember loads of grease and also check the sequence for the rear torque settings as the front bearing is tapered you cant just horse the nut up or the wheel wont turn. it needs to be slackish but tight enough to hold the drum steady.

iirc the haynes says somethin about being able to just move the washer behind the nut and thats it set properly. read it up first.

rodgerq
 

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There's 2 bearing and 2 races. The first bearing will fall out after the castellated nut and washer are removed and the drum is pulled off. In side the drum is a rubber seal, like a cam seal. Whip this off and you'll get another bearing. Either side of the drum in the holes the bearings were in is a smooth race. You can see notches either side of them to get a punch down and knock them out a side at a time. Refit the same way.
When refitting the hub nut I do it up tight with a regular 3/8" ratchet and loosen right off a few times to settle the bearings, then nip it up JUST passed hand tight.
There should just about be some very slight play in the wheel. If there is none at all the bearing is too tight and you run the risk of seizing it, usually at high speeds and the entire stub axle being ripped from the beam, with lots of scary noises. It's far better to be a bit too loose than too tight, like with spark plugs.
 

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Astra Dan said:
There's 2 bearing and 2 races. The first bearing will fall out after the castellated nut and washer are removed and the drum is pulled off. In side the drum is a rubber seal, like a cam seal. Whip this off and you'll get another bearing. Either side of the drum in the holes the bearings were in is a smooth race. You can see notches either side of them to get a punch down and knock them out a side at a time. Refit the same way.
When refitting the hub nut I do it up tight with a regular 3/8" ratchet and loosen right off a few times to settle the bearings, then nip it up JUST passed hand tight.
There should just about be some very slight play in the wheel. If there is none at all the bearing is too tight and you run the risk of seizing it, usually at high speeds and the entire stub axle being ripped from the beam, with lots of scary noises. It's far better to be a bit too loose than too tight, like with spark plugs.

that how i do them at work and done 100's over the last 5 years with no problem.

tip when refitting use the old race to tap it in.

i have a proper punch that sits square in the new race and just hammer them in the end piece is changable to fit the diffrent size races i also pack the bearings with extra grease.

also when you grease up the bearing dont just wipe it round the bearing use your thumb to force the grease thro the larger end of the bearing between the center part and the rollers.

and dont be as bodger and just chane the bearings and reuse the old races will only last a month or so.
 
G

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks all - did the change on Sunday - just used a screwdriver & hammer to get the old races out, and a socket to fit, and a hammer - to put the new ones back in.

Thanks for everyones input :beer:
 
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