[Brooksracing]

Hi,

i need a Vauxhall x14xe race engine for my single seater race car, the car should weigh about 450kg wet with driver. The engine Must comply with the following rules,

• No Turbo/supercharging or nitrous
• It must be therefore normally aspirated with Weber’s/dellortos/bike carb conversion/throttle bodies
• crank, rods, pistons are free in terms of design/material/source ie different engines. They can also be lightened or modified as needed.
• Maximum overbore is + 40
• cams free
• valve gear is free
• Head cannot be ported but can be fitted with larger valves and the CR is also free.
• fuel is free and I’m planning to run on 115 octane 20% oxygenated race fuel. Races are 20 mins in length. The engine must last 8 hrs before total strip and rebuild.
• Engine must be wet sump
• I will be using an MBE programmable ignition.
• Enem have offered the following cams stating although designed for the C20 they have had some excellent results with full race x14 and x16

• Planning on a CR of 13:1
• Custom JE slipper pistons ? 1/3 shorter than stock
• Pauter con rods ? 1/3 longer than stock
• Lightened and balanced crank
• Ultralite TTV flywheel

essentially just for this one race season I’m looking to get as much HP/torque out of this engine as possible. As long as it can manage the 8 hrs it needs before rebuild it doesn’t matter.
So if anyone out there has some advice on performance/reliability/any tricks iv missed I would greatly appreciate it I honestly would. The engine is being build by a very well known race engine builder but he doesn’t usually do these engines this extreme so he suggested asking you guys.

thanks in advance
Tom

 

[cmurf36]

You need to speak with Bill Falconer race engines. 01896 848680. The man is unmatched when it comes to small block Vauxhall engines.

 

[Gordo]

It's rather dated, but SBD did a guide to these engines some time back, and should be able to supply many parts from very reputable companies. There have been quite a few different heads used on the 'small block' engine and as you're prohibitted from modifying it, it may be worth your while checking it out for that and starting a search for the best heads.

Is it a requirement to use this specific engine series, or is it one you consider the best fit. I assume it's to fit a maximum engine capacity class?

Something you didn't mention is the budget - that's a VERY important consideration!

Given the choice, I'd look for a 16XE with the best head, use either an '14 crank or light steel aftermarket item, long steel or titanium rods (budget?) to suit, high-pin high compression pistons with a single top ring (JE have a lot of experience with custom pistons and should give you what you need to get the compression in a smaller engine and valve notches to suit the camshaft lift actually used) with, preferably, Total Seal gapless gas-ported (talk to them) and coatings as they recommend, smallest clutch that comfortably meets the expected torque (preferably carbon, but $$$) with a matching ultra-light flywheel.
With 'stock' heads very high lift camshafts won't work as well and you may benefit more from duration - again, talk to the experts.
As with any smaller engine, reducing parasitic losses can make a significant difference - hence the lightweight parts, depending on the induction you use you may wish to try different trumpet lengths (also a useful tuning tool for different tracks) and if possible you may wish to get a 'raw' manifold where it meets the head to match it to the head - certainly use a phenolic or insulating spacer, using a heat barrier paint may give a little benefit especially if used throughout the induction side from the cold air feed to the head, on that - and depending if it has an open engine or enclosed - reducing the heat from the exhaust with coatings can be helpful - oh, on that spend a little time with different diameters and lengths to check the design is right (off the shelf items are very unlikely to be right for you).

Also, don't forget the importance of the gearbox and gearing, and you may benefit from micro-polishing and lower viscosity oil to reduce parasitic losses. Depending on the gearbox you may be able to run an oil level a FEW mm lower as there may be adaquate splash lubrication without the added drag.

As an aside, I've wondered for some time how effective a very short stroke 20XE (preferably alloy block) would be in a capacity limited, stock head class - breathing certainly wouldn't be too much of an issue. i had been thinking a 1600cc version, but a 1400 could make for a real screamer! getting the compression up might be a problem, though?

 

[Gordo]

Forgot, those Enem cam's may be the bees'knees for a "full race" engine, but they have heads to support the cam' profile - may not be nearly as good in a 'stock head' configuration.
Also forgot, some careful attention to the valve seat area - top and bottom cuts, and valve shape, can make a big difference with relatively low lift camshafts - a BIG difference!