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Good progress, looks a pretty good fit now. It shouldn't be too hard to glass up the existing suspension cut out holes and then cut some fresh ones.
 

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Discussion Starter #62
*Bit more fettling and trying the bonnet and scuttle on to gauge the widths*





Still struggling for height at the rear, can' get it to slot under the floor





The turrets are defiantly taller and wider on the GBS chassis compared to the VORTX. I've trimmed out as much as I can from the top without the turrets showing and it's wedged*

(View up from under the turret)





As none of the front suspension holes line up I'm going to fibreglass matt it all up im not so worried about elongating holes to get it to fit.


So I needed to adjust the front down a bit to fit under the chassis








And could then get it to slot under, drivers side fits nicely straight now





Lines up nicely with the nose




Needed to do the same the other side*





And got the panels on with loads of mole grips








Nice and flush underneath*





It's not perfectly placed, still needs lots of trimming, but it's getting there, chuffed with myself I gave it a good clean up :)























Tried the rear arches on just to see. Think they might be the wrong way round here








 

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Discussion Starter #63
A bit more tinkering, I tried the rear suspension on to see if that cleared the body





It needs a trim to fit the shocks. That lower brace will be chopped off after the final final fit, but needs to stay in for now to stop it all folding up fitting and removing the body





And on





Loosely tried the hub and wheel on to see how the arches fitted to the wheel. The wheel arches are from the original Locost so they could be off anything. GBS ZERO chassis and suspension, MNR VORTX body and random LOCOST wheel arches, and it actually lines up ok! Everything's just placed on here so all a bit squeif*











Tried one of the boot panels in and it fits perfect, the original holes line up which is good





I thought I'd have a little sit in the car to see how it feels and disaster!


This picture is taken at my eyline





You can't see over the dash!!





The seats look right for a GBS ZERO





But everyone in a MNR VORTX sits a lot higher. The sholder holes in the seats are well high of the rear panel and the drivers chin it at the top of the dash. The top of my head is in mine!














At first I though the body was on too high, and I obviouly can't drop the body down any more as it's on the rear turrets.


Then I realised that it couldn' be too high because the VORTX body sits on the bottom of the chassis..... The same as mine. Here's a vortex chassis





So looked at some VORTX build threads and they have a lot of cross braces on the floor





And they use huge 50mm spacers, then the runners which are probably 25mm and then ontop of the 25mm chassis section, it means a vortx seat is 100mm off the floor!!





Not ideal because ideally you want your weight as low as possible, but that' the way it is


So got some testing purposes spacers under my seat





Raising it right up











Which results in perfect viability





I tried the wheel in to check that wasn' down between my legs, it' right at the bottom of it' adjustment here but I need to cut the scuttle to move it up, but is able to go up another 50+mm*








So it think it will all be ok.
 

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Looks like the roll bar is still tall enough even with the seat raised. You might need to do something with the rear harness fixing points as they have to be in line with the slots in the seat.
 

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Discussion Starter #65
Yea I was a bit worried about the roll bar as VORTX one is a lot taller but think it will be ok. I will play with the seat height now I know that it will work raising the seat. I can put some spacers in the seatbelts if needed. Or drop the seat right down for IVA.
 

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Discussion Starter #66
Waiting on some 25x50 box to turn up so I can decide exactly where the body will sit. It's really hard to measure because all the edges are rounded and curved, and it fits from the mould are done freehand. So it's really tough to get a proper measrement between the chassis and body. I taped some aluminium strips at certain points from the chassis*








I tried the tank in too to make sure you can get it in and out with the body on, if needed








All the GBS boot panels fit perfectly.*





I'm going to put some rails down the back as there is very little protection to the fuel tank, even more so with a fibreglass tub instead of a steel one. It only takes someone to reverse into it with a tow bar and it's through the tank.*


The standard gbs brake set up uses a Sierra 4 port mastercyliner*








Then they have a little panel around it





And a lid which then keeps your feet and the engine bay separate*





The Locost came with a proper bias set up, with the 3 separate resiviors, so I'm going to have a close look at the race series to see if*

I can not that to fit.





Due to where the steering shaft comes through I don't think I can use it as the locost was, but the gbs zero race series has them up where my Sierra one is facing backwards so I'll have a closer look at the racing chassis to see if much is different in that area to mine besides the extra holes.
 

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Discussion Starter #67
Phoned up GBS yesterday for a nice chat. I had a list of questions I wanted to know and Steve was happy to help.*

First off was the front upper ball joints were different to my locost so I needed a pair of those. They had them on the shelf.

Next was the steering arm extenders. We went through our measurements and found the locost ones were shorter, again had these on the shelf.

Next was the propshaft. I knew already my locost one was too long. We compared measurements and it turns out mine is 65mm too long yoke to yoke. They do have these in stock for £175, but as mine is brand new with all tight joints I'm going to look at getting mine shortened locally to see if it's hopefully cheaper.

We went through the prices of all the interior aluminium panels seperatly as some I need and some I don't. They laser cut them all to fit straight in. Alhough they aren't horrndously priced I think I will get a couple of 6x4ft sheet of alloy and spend a day making cardboard templates to make my own to save some money.

The chassis came with a full Zetec engine mount kit, and they do full C20xe fitting kits. I think I will just weld Vauxhall flanges on the mounts I have.

Like I said above the GBS ZERO Standard uses a normal 4 port Sierra master cylinder, but the ZERO RACE uses the bias pedal box. We had a chat about the difference in mounts but they said as I'm using Standard Sierra calipers unless it' a focused race car a pedal box is overkill. And bias boxes are a bit of a pain to get through the IVA test as they need to be locked in position ect. So I will keep the pedal box I have incase I do want to upgrade at a later date, but I will build it up standard for now.

And finally I asked if they did a template for the front suspension holes, but they said all their panels are laser cut out ready. So again I'll be getting the templates out.


That was yesterday and the bits turned up today. So my first dealings with GBS are good!





 

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Discussion Starter #68
Few more deliveries.


A pair of Sierra cosworth rear wheel bearings





Tried the new track rods in the front arms, perfect fit





GBS sent me some spacers I apparently needed for the rear hubs to stop the c.v. joints locking out. And got the bolts from eBay





And some thin wall 25x50mm box to go on top of the chassis for the body to sit on.


 

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That is looking great.



Could you not trim the fb so the frame can poke thru then make up a very slim line boxcess to bond on over it? So you have better clearance.
 

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Discussion Starter #71
Couple more bargain eBay deliveries.


Won this sexy little number for £25. It' about 1.5 litres.








And this c20xe kit car shallow sump for £58. It's still got the £230 price tag written on the inside








Hopefully I'll find some spare time to actually get some progress soon.*
 

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Discussion Starter #73
The advantage of doing night shifts with a pretty relaxed job is marathon eBay search sessions :lmao:
 

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Discussion Starter #74
Finally had a bit of free time to get dirty :) I was at the point where I had to work out how I was going to mount the body. It may not seem like a lot of progress but there's about 2 days work here. A lot of trying and thinking and re *thinking.


All the pictures so far of it all assembled are all just mole gripped together*





The other problem is that the MNR VORTX nose cone, and the side panels are around 50mm wider than the GBS ZERO chassis at the front. Meaning at the front the body wouldn't be sitting on the chassis.


I'd just had a bar going across for now





Annnnnd, the VORTX body is 25mm taller than the GBS chassis (although not really a problem, if you were to lean on it it would be!)






So I got some lengths of 25x50mm thin wall box to take up the height and width difference. So the 50mm wide will span the width at the front then fade back in flush at the rear





I can't weld these directly to the chassis because I need to be able to remove them to get the body on and off. So the need to be bolt on


So got creative with a bit of 25x25 box





To make a tab








And another








Welded them on





And could now start centralizing the body on the chassis


It' not easy being down here on my own, you need 20 pairs of hands yo keep trying it on and marking, or the odd rachet strap


*





And got everything fixed to where I wanted it then I could start drilling


There will be more fixtures when I work out the best way to do It, but it's in position securely. The new beams are bolted to the chassis, and the body and nose are bolted to the beams





I plan on trying to have the nose cone and scuttle quick release so if I'm ever out and about and have a problem I can gain access with out tools


Because the bonnet is open either end it doesn't hold it's shape as well as the nose and scuttle and flairs out naturally at the bottom





I found these nifty stubs in the box of bits that came with the car





Out came the friendly rachet straps again to keep it in position





Then I clambered in the bay underneath and marked through the bonnet and body, drilled and tapped the rail and threaded them in





And the bonnet fits great now. Will have IVA over centre catches to hold it down





Just the scuttle to bolt down now but that's nice and straight forward.*


I'm happy now I can see a direction it's going in again :)
 

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Discussion Starter #75
I drilled some more pegs on the rear to locate the scuttle.














So I could now take off the threaded bar now the body is fixed in place*





Now the body was fixed in the correct place I wanted to try the engine in to see of it cleared the bonnet. Lifted the block in





And bolted a head on





And got loads of room to the bonnet*








Tried the throttle bodies on





But now the body is raised 25mm plus the fibre glass the trumpets hit the body





Not allowing them to seat





The exhaust can't come straight out like a GBS it will have to bounce up first, or go down internally like a caterham





It fits on without the trumpets





Without any trumpets it fits in, possibly allowing for a custom inlet





Another option is to put a 25mm spacer between the inlet and the head, because it's at an angle it raises it up, but also spaces it out








Some QED direct to head tbs would be perfect! But out of my price range :lol:











But with my parallel 45s there's no way you'd be able to round the inlet port to match








Jenvey do actually do a straight c20xe manifold. This is the one I have





And this is the 0 degree one





But it's £230 eek!


I might think about cut and shutting my manifold with a V making it a straight one then welding it back together. I do like the look of it up at 45degrees





More thinking to do on that one....


Also now the body's in the right place I could think about cutting out the holes for the front suspension*





Got chopping





Until I could get the arms in








At full swing both ways








And the other side.











Tried the nose and shocks on to check clearance with everything*








Next job will be to make cardoard templates around the front suspension so it's all nice and tight just allowing enough room to make it's full swing. Then I'll fibreglass matt all the holes up flush and just cut out what I need after.


For now I just played a bit of dress up :)*

















 

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Looking jolly smart with the body on!
Was going to suggest a straight manifold - but I'm sure with your trading skills you'll pick a S/H on up for pennies that has never been fitted. Failing that, maybe the spacer option would be a good alternative - esp' if you have a machinist mate or access yourself - and you can BS about it optimising the ram effect into the head.
Exhaust does look a bit of a pain, but at least you have a fair bit of clearance between the head and chassis to work with.

Anyway, kudos to your drive and abilities to get the job done and if getting a bit down, just think about driving it on a nice clear spring morning.
 

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Having the trumpits sticking out the body would look frigging ace!

I was gonna say, If you resign some rope in/on to the fiberglass bonnet on the ends/edges it will triple the strength but keep it light weight. Done on boats alot.
But the way you've fixed the issues is great.
 

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Discussion Starter #78
.

Was looking on eBay searching c20xe the other night and a new listing popped up.

4 Omega high compression pistons ..... buy it now £50!


Thought that was too good to be true, or must be each piston or something, but sure enough it was 4 x Omega oversize high compression pistons removed from a c20xe group 4 mk2 Escort. Clicked the buy it now and they arrved a day later!








Spotless inside, these certainly haven't done much work





Here it is next to a standard c20xe piston










And here's my c20let LOW compression wossner piston in the middle






With the steel rods on the c20let pistons that will now be making their way to this build



The tops have obviously seen combustion



But that pretty much wiped off with some thinners




And they came up like new










Very pleased with that. These are £500-600 new!!
 

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You jammy sod ;) - that sure is a sweet buy.
Although you would probably get by re-using the rings, I'd replace and gap them and use new pin locks.
 

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Discussion Starter #80 (Edited)
I little bit more done. As this is a GBS ZERO/ MNR VORTX hybrid there's a bit of a problem at the rear with the fuel tank being a bit vunrable. The GBS has the fuel tank down low behind the diff right at the back. The rear clam on a GBS is usually stainless steel so offers good protection.

The MNR body I have is fibreglass, and on the mnr the tank is higher up and the roll cage goes right over it.


With my configuration though the single skin alloy tank is only protected by a bit of fibreglass. Anyone reversing into it with a tow bar would go straight through it, or if I have a bit of a spin on the track :lmao:








So I chopped up the remains of the locost chassis for some of the tubing








Started making some plates to bolt to the GBS roll bar





And made a skeleton down to the bottom and round the sides to mount the tub to, and hold the alloy plate in place




















Will put some of the corrugated plastic sheeting like you use for car port roofs between the alloy plate and fuel tank.


It's just all tacked at the moment, will weld it and paint it once the body is back off.
 
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