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Discussion Starter #41
ok update time. there has been a bit of a gap as i got involved in a quick restoration on my friends T4 camper van. which turned into a balls deep 50 plus hours resto,















and he got it graffiti'd up this week. he's not shy of being noticed LMAO







so that is out of the unit and it back to playing kit cars :)

I have been browsing gearboxes on eBay and forums over the last few weeks. I decided to keep it ford and go with a type 9 as i really do want to try and get a sierra age relate plate when I go for the IVA. I spotted this one on eBay and came to a deal.



It's a V6 type 9 gearbox that's been modified to fit a 4 cylinder. usually the V6 variant of the gearbox can't be used due to the fact they have a longer input shaft suited for a much deeper bellhousing compared to the 4cylinder. this one has had the input shaft machined down to the same dimensions as a 4 cylinder one, and has the C20XE conversion bellhousing. it has a hydraulic clutch release bearing (favoured over the external hydraulic clutch lever that's on the car) and came with a mix of vauxhall and ford clutch plates for the conversion to all work. I think he said the friction plate is ford galaxy. it has a modified gearstick to move the lever further back (will see if I keep this or do the original plan of the relocator) and an uprated rear mount. The advantage with it being a V6 gearbox (it seems) is they have a better ratio in 1st than the 4cylinder of 3.36:1 compared to the 3.65:1. if it makes a great deal of difference I don't know, but it's better. it's been in a haynes roadster for the last 2000 miles so the configuration all works well together.

I paid £400 for the lot and he chucked in a bottle of fluid too ;)

next step will be to get the T5 out cleaned up and sold and this will bolt straight in.

there's quite a size difference :lol:













made some other purchases, I spotted a full brand new seven'esqe type loom (suposedly a Tiger) for sale on locost builders so came to a deal. I was going to make my own loom from scratch, vehicle electrics is a bit of a speciality of mine, but this came up for £100 delivered and I would have easily spent that on parts. I'm sure some bits will need modifying but it's a start, its very nicely made and has everything, lights, indicators, horn, fan, fuel pump, dash, switches, charging, starting, even has wipers.











these must be for some marques indicator wiper stalks



came with all the wiring diagrams too which is super helpful!




I will basing my front suspension on the haynes roadster, I saw these on eBay for £14.99 for the pair. it would have taken me a whole day to make these using an angle grinder and they still wouldn't have looked as good as these. great quality and only £7.50 a side!





and bought some tube to cut down for the bushes, you have to get a wierd size for the bushes to fit. 33.7mm od with 2.6mm wall.



will chop it into the 4 lower Bush tubes (i plan to rosejoint the top)



the thing I'm stuck on and can't really get an answer on is the long main wishbone tubes. book spec says use 25mm od tube for them. I really like the look of the newest kit cars that use oval wishbone tubes rather than round, but a lot of older theads through Google suggest that this is not a good idea as they will bend. still trying to look for a difinative answer because I'd really like to use oval tube. it is only a looks thing and I will use 25mm round if that's the only answer.
 

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It will, of course, depend on the tubing used, but...
If you're just doing the top wishbone that has no other fixings than the inner pivot and link to the upright, that is a pin jointed item and all loads are going to be along it's length so any bending forces are going to be very small. Under normal use, vertical loading is almost nil, depending on scrub radius, compressive loads will be very small as it will only be loaded when the wheel is unloaded and the heaviest lateral loads will be tensile when the wheel is loaded in cornering.
The heaviest loadings that may cause bending will be under severe braking, when the front link will be under compression and the rear under tension and, even then, it should be relatively lightly loaded.
if you do go for the round, but want the look of the oval, there used to be a plastic cover that could be clipped over round tubes to give the look of expensive oval tubes.
Just thought, we may be thinking of different applications of the tube?
 

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Discussion Starter #44
I'm wanting my wishbones (the upper at least) to look like the real MNR Vortx ones. need to find suitable tube if anyone has any suggestions on size and thickness. book haynes roadster uses 19mm tube for the upper and 25mm for the lower with a wall thickness of 2-3mm I think I read



so mine will pretty much look like this with the MNR body and wider track

 

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Discussion Starter #45
I did a service on a proper Caterham supersport today so I could have a poke around a proper one to see how they do it.













the A'frame and dedion I plan to copy.









it is a sweet car!







took a load more measurements too



My pressure washer dies a few weeks ago so had a little upgrade, K2 to K4



everyone like to test a new pressure washer out so I thought I'd clean up the new type 9 of bought.







still with the pressure washer bug I took out the mock up engine and the T5 out and asperated them



they've been bolted together for 8 years sitting under the bench both with no oil in them, but still filthy :lmao:

dug out the sierra cosworth bellhousing, transmission mount and clutch fork too and got scrubbing!



all came up like new :) genuine cosworth oil is a great preserver! hope it hasn't knocked the value by washing it off :eek:



even the vauxhall oil did ok!



actually got a c20let block and COSCAST head, but both no good.



so ford stuff all pretty much ready for eBay unless anyone needs one?



the difference between the T5 and type 9 is now apparent! no wonder it was a squeeze!



so put the mock up c20 back in with the new Type 9 and as the chassis already had a type 9 in it mounted before I bought it I put the mount it came with back in the same place as a datum



but this left loads of prop hanging out?? surely all of the clan bit of the prop should be in the tail section?



so moved it back in till the prop sat nicely



Soooooo much room for activities on the drivers side now!



even with the modified gear stick it's still not back where I'd like it to caterham spec



but there is is, back in and level



next will be to think about position of the engine for ground clearance vs bonnet clearance, then make some mounts.
 

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Discussion Starter #47
ah that makes sense, although mine won't be moving so might put it on a bit more.
yep that's exactly what I've been looking at. puts the gearlever in caterham position to the mm.
 

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Discussion Starter #50
yes the higher spec caterhams have a front ARB bar and they attach to the top arm. replica's never seem to bother with ARBs so not sure if I'll bother or not
 

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Discussion Starter #51
so this had to take ANOTHER back seat while I did the resto on the S6, but now that's finished and looking bad ass *:cool:














so it's back on the kit car :)*


I bought some seats the other day











but now there has been a bit of a change of plan............*


everything off!





a big pile of ford bits removed, and the T5 still sitting there





and a bare bare chassis







cryptic!*


 

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Discussion Starter #52
ok, so the situation is I got into conversation with a guy called Ron on the locost builders forum, cool name, cool guy. he was cutting his losses with his project and breaking it. a deal was made and me and my dad shot up to Leicester in the stealth Passat (2.8 V6 4motion tiptronic highline) with the trailer to pick up my purchase.


it's a 2011 GBS ZERO chassis, i did a bit of googling and they are very well respected as being fantastic all round, handling and build quality. we took the trailer and I was very happy when we picked it up






round trip of about 6 hours was well with it. the chassis is very very well made. everything fits nice, the welding is perfect! not even I would have got it that nice. came with all the suspension arms, cycle wing arms, engine mounts, pedal box , all powdercoated, and fuel tank, and all the bits and bolts..... for £400.




























so side by side they don't look much different, they're pretty much exactly the same size, but it's all on the detail, all the suspension mounts are better positioned and better designed, everything is stronger where it needs to be, all the pieces are nicely laser cut and true.


got it up on the 'tressle'*





and then unloaded all the other bits I bought whilst up there :lol:






full sierra steering coloum with keys and switches, extended steering bar, steering wheel, brake master cylinder, radiator, fan, full light set, fuel tank, fuel filler cap, loads of interior panels, full carpet set, set of wheels and new yoko prada tyres..... for another £450.


































all the welding and plates are so nicely done

















the only bits that need a quick buzz of welding are here where I think someone's tried getting the wrong handbrake fitted





here where they've tried getting a different shifter or something*





and here where they've bolted the exhaust on





nice and easy :)


as you can see all the panels were bonded and every pole is covered in sealer


but a quick whizz with a toffee wheel and comes off nice and easy





so all my mechanical bits from the locost will all bolt on to this as it's also sierra based and will still be using all the white MNR VORTX grp body. laid the body on and it's pretty close, *just need to trim it around the front shock mounts and radiator brackets.






























so £850 all in, very happy :) :)*
 

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Discussion Starter #53
popped in to pick up some keys and couldn't resist having a quick tinker. started trying to work out where all the panels go, it's actually a lot trickier than it looks lol. seems the these have quite a practical boot!

 

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Discussion Starter #54
so a little break in Aiya Napa getting over a divorce





came back much happier :lol:


the audi was pretty grotty sitting for a while





so first job was to give that a bling up





then it was straight back onto the kit car :)


first up the old chassis was getting in the way, so made it into more manageable pieces, I'll keep it around for when I need some metal box.





where all the old zero body panels were bonded on there is sealer on pretty much every piece of box section











I don't want to scrape it and off and cut through all the powder coating as the chassis is in great condition, so used a toffee wheel on a drill






that corner took about an hour so was truly bored of that, i moved onto the metal work that needed fixing *


the very poorly chopped out sections here





and the cuts at the back






I squared up the holes





made up some infill pieces





and welded them in





and migged up the rear





next was the mess they'd made bolting the exhaust on





squared it up first*





made up a piece to infill the lower rail





welded that in





then made an infill for the diagonal





welded that in*





and ground everything down











Will just be painting those sections.


got to carry on getting all that sealer off next, then try on the body properly :)
 

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Bad luck on the divorce.
Good work on the ladies on holiday.

Can't believe you picked up another chassis for £400. That's crazy. Love the project, Nice work on fixing the random cutout in the chassis.
 

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Discussion Starter #56
when I picked up the chassis the guy did have some brand new gaz coilovers for the gbs zero which he offered me, but I already had the new ones that came with the locost at home. I did a little research and found the fronts are a inch shorter on the locost and the rear springs are a different length, but I was going to make do as they were pretty close so was going to see if they work.


Then I spotted someone asked Ron86 if his gbs zero gaz coilovers would fit a locost.... a plan was hatched, I'd sell my locost coilovers to him, then buy the gbs coilovers, all for the money. result :)


so popped down there today to pick up my locost coilovers to send out.





while I was there I couldn't resist a little tinker, i wanted to try the nose cone on a bit better, but it fouled the radiator brackets at the bottom









so did a little measuring and chopped a slot





and it slides right on now








I do love the vortx scuttle





in fact I do love the whole vortx kit. it is a bit marmite, especially as all the other kits copy the caterham very closely (including the Gbs Zero).*








I'm going to need to make a cut out in the nose cone to fit over the headlight brackets, not very much, it just sits up on them a few mm






but I want to get the cut as tight as possible, so before I do I will put the full body on so I can get the forward and back measure spot on.*


all in all its not going to be too hard to get it to fit well and look just like a Vortx :) the front suspension holes don't look like they will line up, so once I get the body on the right place I'll make new holes for my wishbones then fibreglass the old ones up.*


before all that happens I need to get the rest of this sealer off with the toffee wheel :(*
 

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Discussion Starter #59
My old locost gaz coilovers arrived in america within a few a few days, and the GBS spec gaz coilovers arrived from the guy I bought the chassis from a few days later.


*


Also someone was looking for a dedion beam on the locost forum so got mine all packed up ready for them, result





One of the wheel bearings fell apart when I unbolted the beam so will have to get a new one before bolting them to the GBS uprights. Had a measure up and Sierra cosworth ones like up





Not had a lot of progress, took a bit more of the sealer off the chassis





 

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Discussion Starter #60
Had a bit of tinker time. Finally got all the sealer off the chassis. I got some toffe wheels off eBay, just the cheapest unbranded ones, and I had a few old half cut 3M ones. The 3M ones were so much better. The cheapo's left it all smudgy where it had started to melt itself, but still got it all off anyway.











And a good blow off and clean up








Next I tried the diff and gearbox in to see how much hangs below the the chassis and where the rear wheels will sit. This also confirmed that the prop I have is 2inches too long. So will either have to get a proper GBS one or get this shortened, which ever is cheaper





Next was trying to get the MNR VORTX body to fit. First off the GBS has it' roll cage in a different place to the MNR so needed some cut outs





Check




Next was these curved supports were fouling the inside of the tub. They are only there for the sheet metal work of the GBS body.





And off





It was also fouling on the extra diagonal the GBS has





So a little trimming of the fibreglass*








And had to shave a bit more off around the turrets





And whalla the rear of the body is On!








The front though was being held out by the headlamp/shock mounts still*





I wanted to see if any of the MNR holes in the body lined up with the GBS suspension, so out came the CAD





with a bit of jiggering you could maybe get one to line up, but not really.





Tried on the rest of the suspension*





With the Ford bits from the locost





But the top ball joints are smaller so will have to find what GBS use*





Loosely assembled it all and looked at a quick template





I think I'm pretty much just going to fiberglass the whole front and cover it all flush then start again.


Next was to cut out the headlights brackets. I could have cut a great big hole and just slotted it over but I wanted it to tuck in nice and snug.


Out came the CAD again









And that just slides over*


*


And down






Next was to transfer this onto the body. Tricky because the headlamp brackets are slant up, so the cut out is in a different place depending how wide the body will sit and at what height. And you can't get the body anywhere near the chassis to offer it up in the right place





Lots of measurement later I committed





And chopped





And it fits perfectly!





Exactly what I wanted. The only thing it's

*done is because the front of the car is narrower than the rear, as the front has gone in over the headlights brackets it's pulled the whole body forward a few mm.





So will need a bit more trimming here and there. But it's nearly there now :) I love the one piece body compared to what it should have.
 
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