[TURBO TUBBY]

what would be needed to run phase 3 without any stress on a brand new engine....what would need to be upgraded to hit the 300 mark...and would the vaux brakes be ok

 

[jtimkey]

as far as stress goes dont think your gona be able to avoid it but ive just got a phase 3.5+ for my cav turbo and gona change the following just to be sure :
fuel pump/filter
clean yellows or swap for reds from saab 900 2.3 turbo and clean
clutch dont think standard one will last to long allthough im gona run it till it drops then change it.
change air box to turbo hose cause of up'd pressure/vacuum
im only a beginner but this is the advice ive been given.
P.S FMIC a must

 

[Rob_S]

wawtaar injection innit

 

[jtimkey]

hmmm nice
next on my list after this goes pop (which it will) phase 4 with water injection

 

[TURBO TUBBY]

ive already got a fmic with samco hosing upwards

so i would need the airbox one doing as well...seeing as its a brand new engine i might leave the clutch in until its done in

 

[jtimkey]

well im gona do mine as i have heard of many collapsing cause of more pressure..
my other pipes are all stainless that came with the FMIC.

 

[Topbuzz]

what would be needed to run phase 3 without any stress on a brand new engine....what would need to be upgraded to hit the 300 mark...and would the vaux brakes be ok

with reduced stress, I would do the following (in fact I may do most if not all these on my Phase 3.5 C20LET Calibra when the engine is built)

1) bigger intercooler than std item (reduces temp)
2) replace all hoses with steel tubes and silcon hoses (less likly to colapse)
3) aquamist (reduces temp)
4) ceramic coat crowns (reduce temp)
5) check and calibrate wastegate is operating correclty and not sticking etc
6) dump valve

About the brakes, if you already have V6/Turbo calipers then you can upgrade them to 308mm by using Vectra 2.6L GSi caliper brackets and the bigger 308mm discs (5-stud).

 

[TURBO TUBBY]

topbuzz

1.got fmic so ok there then
2.intercooler hoses done...guess i would have to do airbox then
3.whats this..the water spray stuff
4.youve lost me there
5.new engine comes with new turbo...will i need it to be upgraded thoe
6.already got dumpvalve

 

[Topbuzz]

> 3.whats this..the water spray stuff

see http://www.aquamist.co.uk/
it sprays a fine mist into the throttle body, reduces boost temperture which is very important. About £300 mark

> 4.youve lost me there

Have the crowns (pistons) ceramic coated. This again reduces the temperture in the cylinder. I may be getting mine done for £25 per crown.

> 5.new engine comes with new turbo...will i need it to be upgraded thoe

I'm keeping my K16 turbo. Had it recondition the other week for £260 (turbo technics). Just plug in the Phase 3.5 and you shoud be fine. I think P3.5 comes with uprated actuator anyway.

 

[tabs]

i think you get onyl a spring and no actuator, are you not suppose to get a hybrid for phase 3.5.

 

[TURBO TUBBY]

i take it you dont have to get a hybrid turbo for phase 3 then

 

[tabs]

my inderstanding was the life span of the k16 will be drastically shortened when running phase 3

 

[TURBO TUBBY]

i wonder how long i could run a standard turbo then before killing it.....remembering if i do this it will be a brand new engine and turbo

 

[Topbuzz]

my inderstanding was the life span of the k16 will be drastically shortened when running phase 3

I can't see why not.

Mine was tested to 100,000rpm and it passed fine after it was recondition. The phase kit isn't going to make it spin any faster than it should, but it will spin longer than std setup. So if you have a 100K milage C20LET, then yes your making the life of the turbo also shorter with a phase kit bolted on.

But as mines recondition, new seals, and make sure that I change the oil regulary and give about 30 seconds before I switch off the car, it should last just as long.

About the actuator, didn't know that it was just a spring that you replace in it. I might get a uprated one (as my actuator is well rusty and surprsied it still works!).