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Discussion Starter #1
Following on from this thread

http://www.migweb.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=61411

and this thread

http://www.migweb.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=61457

Just been up to maidstone and the oil temp guage sits on about 70 deg C cruising in 5th at steady 60mph. Sat with it idling on the spot for about 10 minutes and it rose to 90 deg, water temp was about 100-110 bouncing off the fan, oil pressure at 3 bar. Getting about 80deg pootling round town centre.

I was expecting it to over read if anything seing as its in the side of the head, but its definately measuring something, because it heats right up idling, then cools down again when you drive off.

does that sound about right ?
 

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Oil and water temp usually equalise roughly on idle.

On full load oil temp will rise above coolant temp.

Those readings seem lowish to me... but then it's all relative to where you measure from.
 

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That sounds about right i would say, dont forget that they have oil cooler too, well mine does, and as it works in the same way as the coolant it will flow through the cooler and, well get cooler.

ill have a play tommorrow, and if i get one ill put up the oil temps,
Ill put mine in the back plug like in robs pic, as i can get to it easy and th eother one is mulleredlmao
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I suppose putting it in the plug under the distributor might help, i.e its on the exhaust side. The same reasoning made me put it on the inlet side in the first place, my thinking was that it would over read, but having it an inch or so from air going into the head by equalise things.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
i know for a fact that the coolant temp guage is over reading by about 10deg, the rad fan, which should switch on at 107deg, does not come on till about 115-120 "on the guage"

so what cris said about equalising at idle is near enough about right.

I might whip out the M10 plug inbetween exhaust ports 2+4 see what comes out (coolant or oil)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
might be a bit more guage friendly seeing as its nestled between 2 exhaust ports.

My temp guage is kind of non linear, only starts at 50 deg, so it barely moves off the floor.
 

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OIL, Measure temp in head = WTF, unless exp. only.

Pump delivery or as near as poss in block, (or external pipe work as aproprite).

Sump next best.

Too many gauges to look at mean you cant consentrate on where your going:p

If all out then may indicte WHY you are slowing:D

Best to connerct to data logger, and see if your interpritation = actual logged. (humans seem to be bad for actual data), well I am,

DOUGAL
 

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0dd, as you know mine reads about 20 degrees too low. When driving around it sits just above 50 degrees and when racing the crap out of it (really hard) it might get up to maybe just below 80.

Oil will be coolest in the sump though.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
ok thanx, thats basically just what i wanted, a comparison.

re: dougal, dont really think it matters where you measure, aslong as it "measures". The point of it is to tell the difference between cold hot and hotter, and the head plug obviously does that ok.
 

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as long as the m10 in the head is an oilway, thats where i will put mine too. with a few engines running the same place at least we can compare
plus its where the oil gets hottest (almost anyway, but its gonna be hotter than the sump) and so its the point where it could break down under heat - measuring that makes sense, no point saying the sump temp is 100, thats ok, when the head temp is 130 say and the oil is cooking.
 

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Odders, have you changed the temp sensor for the gauge recently?
Maybe worth changing it for peace of mind. Made the 10 degree difference on mine that you talk about. Only about a tenner for the sensor iirc...
 

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You want the oil to be around 90 - 100 degrees. Thats the optimum temp. Any cooler than 80 ish its gonna cost you power.

If you ask me the oil cooler isn't needed at all, unless your towing a caravan, full of imigrants and their booty.

You want the coolant to be around 80 - 90 degrees.

Like Chris B said on heavy load the oil temp will go above the water temp.

Dougal is right about the positioning, you want it just after the pump. Its gonna be hotter as it passes through bearings etc.

Same with water temp, near the outlet hose to the rad is where you want it. If you stick it near and exhaust valve it will be over 100 degrees easily.

Chris
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
16vastra said:
as long as the m10 in the head is an oil way, thats where i will put mine too.
its definitely an oil gallery, EPC calls it plug, M10 oil gallery.

Russ said:
Odders, have you changed the temp sensor for the gauge recently?
this is the senders first outing, its brand new.

Chris_H42 said:
you ask me the oil cooler isn't needed at all, unless your towing a caravan, full of imigrants and their booty.
Ive been coming to this conclusion too, plus the fact that its one less thing to burst and or leak.

Rob, you got that part number for the de-sandwhich plating threaded section handy?
 

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Oil coolers are never needed. Only car I can think that needed an oil cooler was an old cortina with an auto and it was for the box oil!

I have never needed an oil cooler on any of my cars. Even silly power cars are usually ok if you stick a finned sump on.

Just nip down to B&Q and go to the plumbing section, you will find something to block it off.

Yep one less thing to leak, clog and drop pressure over.

Chris
 

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Discussion Starter #16
well we have the luxury of having non oil cooler lower spec astras with the same size oil filter. Undo threaded section holding sandwhich plate on, take off sandwich plate, fit theaded section from lower spec astra, refit oil filter straight to the arse of the oil pump.
 

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Ahh right I think I get ya, the oil goes in sandwich plate (from the pump) through a pipe to the cooler back out the cooler and into the sandwich plate through the filter?

if thats the case go down the scrappy and get a filter thread off any old 2 litre lump, they will most likely be the same.

Chris
 

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I have never used an oil cooler, I always thought that oil needed to be at a high temp to get maximum protection and power. I was right :D

Good work with the temp sensor odders, will be getting myself one of them soon :)
 
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