Ben found a guy 3D printing shrouds for the Dash2 we both run.
Should help with the glare.
Also been waiting on the new top mounts to come in, Ben has had these machined up
Notice the circlip on the bottom and the step on the top.
Meaning we could only get it over and back so far
New ones are flipped over, something people do with the originals but we weren't happy with the whole load going through the circlip.
Bolted them on
With all the settings the same, apart from lowering the bottom spring cup 15mm to account for the upstand being on the bottom, we went from 2 degrees of negative camber to off the gauge, which goes up to 7!!
Dialled the adjuster on the shock to knuckle bolt to land somewhere around 3 degrees. More caster now too.
I'll get a 4 wheel alignment booked for next week and fingers crossed we can get the setup where I want it.
So after discussion with James @ Relentless, who has been excellent helping sort this all out, he has been in contact with AP.
They recommend that we switch to a 4 paddle, which is on order to be delivered here tomorrow and fitted.
However, on Monday when we first spotted the friction plate damage we immediately ordered another 6 paddle from AP as a direct replacement. As above I've been advised not to use it but thought I'd take a look at it as it arrived today.
My original friction plate which AP say has no design issues and the cracking is down to either something I've done or engine harmonics.
The new friction plate, same part number, totally different design..... notice the paddles are bigger, the slots end in oval shaped holes not round.
In short that's a totally different friction plate!!!
I've taken the opportunity while at Ben's to do a few little things that have been on the list for a while, cleaned all my oil lines and engine strainers, cleaned the bay, made an attempt at some front brake cooling and sorted my headlight inlet.
Cut the plates out in the guillotine and welded them up myself, as I'm now in the circle of trust, Ben lets me use the MIG!! Added some outlets and a splash of paint, these are just proof of concept so probably not the finished item.
There's not much space in there so it's a case of best of a bad job, these tubes use a plate shaped to match the caliper bracket and act as a washer behind the brakes to knuckle bolts. Best solution we could come up with.
Ducted using a flexi rubber ducting which is really good but doesn't contain the wire inside so if a wheel touches it then I hope it won't explode and end up in something.
Engine inlet feed
Didn't like the way the air feed came out the headlight, looked a bit too shonky, so I set about making a headlight blank, I've aslo got a headlight sticker coming that I'll cut the hole out the middle of. Should look decent when done.
Friction plate arrived at 11.40am, car was driving at 4.30pm.
Ben found an old transit 1"x23 spline input shaft. He lined it up by eye and then checked it with the input shaft and it was bang on, so on went the box. I'm shit at lining them up so let Ben's skills run free!!!
Back in the car, everything just bolts into place no crow bar or effort needed, so easy!!
Sorting the wiring and water hoses at the back of the block
Boom, back together and drives really well, clutch feels totally different, bite is mid pedal travel now where as it used to be right at the top of the pedal.
While things were apart I got the chance to investigate an annoying "ting tinging" noise like something was touching the flywheel, it happened every time I turned right only, my thoughts were starter motor gear touching the flywheel!! I was proved right, the return spring on my Brise starter motor had come off and the cog was free to flop in and out, everytime I turned right the centrifugal force pushed the cog out to touch the flywheel!!! Annoying but now solved!!