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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So I'm relatively new here and Benn has kicked my butt to get a project thread up on here.

The original can be seen here

House's PNG build thread

So just a basic overview here for you guys to have a look at.

Purchased in December 2013 as an XE I didn't really know what to expect, I certainly didn't count on the level 11 bodge of certain things!! Pictures 1000 words or whatever it is







The dash had been cut around the roll cage, the ignition barrell had been removed and replaced with a switch meaning the only thing stopping it being driven away was the door lock. Loads of stuff that made my eyes hurt.

Got a lot of it sorted



Standard repairs needed in Nova rot spots!!

Slowly got working through it until I was slightly happy but I bore easily so added a filthy set of these



This opened a massive can of worms!! Oil leaks everywhere, smoking like a trooper, only option was another engine, got one from nicols of FPE but it turns out the idiot put standard shells onto a -.25 crank but denied he'd done so and the engine sounded like bolts in a blender whilst on the rolling road being setup so I lost faith and threw it in the garage for 4 months.

I learnt something important from the whole waste of time with nicols and that's if you want it done do it yourself



Built up an XE myself got it in the car and it did fairly well.

http://vid27.photobucket.com/albums/c175/grahampointing/5BAD3F9B-D171-48BB-9F6F-D435CA006327.mp4



Love Track and Road, top set of guys!!

No Nova is complete without a lot of rust!!! got all this sorted before sending her for spraying



Next up was a splash of colour, it's a track car so finish wasn't top priority, just wanted it to look better.



Then a few more bits and bobs to get her how she looks today!!







Let me know what you think, I was at PVS with you guys and will be at Billing too. Comments welcome, track evening planned for 22 July at Brands as it's only 7 miles from my house!!

If this thread breaks any rules I'm sorry it's Benn's fault.
 

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Re: C20 XE Build and Re-buid

Car looks great but would put the fuel tank forward as in a bad place if someone rear ends you hard bud.
 

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Re: C20 XE Build and Re-buid

Looks like a nice little toy - have a lot of fun with it. I like the use of the roll cage, etc, as many just don't bother and if/when they get caught out it could save a lot of pain and unpleasantness.
I assume you're uprated the connecting rod bolts, so increase the limiter to a still safe 7k5 as the power was still climbing when it cut out.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
That's Mr Jenko, it's a working project, we're getting there!!

Astraliam, I have been toying with the idea of getting the fuel tank inside the cage area, as in, in front of the rear strut not behind. I'll see how we get on, if I'm bored one day I'll move it!!

Gordo, yes that's been done!! When building the engine I was waiting on the ARP bolts but had the deadline for the RR, so I built it and we mapped it then I fitted the bolts and upped us to 7500, looking at the curve maybe 190-192.

Biggest issue I've got now is number 1 piston rings are knackered!! So it's got to come out!! I've got another engine being machined now with an estimated output of 240 when complete, that'll be interesting!!!
 

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Re: C20 XE Build and Re-buid

i do like a set off throttle bodies got a set to go on my champ very soon ,i also use track n road they mapped my c20let ,tops blokes and very good at what they do
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Steve's a miserable bugger but aslong as you don't talk crap and make as much tea as possible he's happy enough!!
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Re: C20 XE Build and Re-build

Been a while, thought I'd add some stuff for you guys to have a look over.

Got a day in at Cadwell with Iain from Mig in August, car performed well, apart from smokey number 1 piston!!




Annoying camera position has been sorted, front wheel bearing were completely destroyed also found a nice little leak, poxy 5th main bearing cap, obviously didn't seal it fully when I built the engine, got bored one Sunday so this happened.



You can clearly see where it hasn't sealed to the block, I didn't realise the sealant needs to be put in under some real pressure.



So out and back in within a day, sealed and sorted!! The relief when I test drove it and came back and there were no leaks underneath!!!

As it's a Nova minor rust repairs are part of everyday life!!







Then having hired a truck to get to Cadwell I figured this trackday malarkey was proper fun, purchased a trailer and tow bar for the work car.



Added a remote control winch for one man loading and some 7 metre jump leads with Anderson plugs on to power the winch



A rather wet day at Snetterton was next, Iain was there, we made it through the day with a few thrills and spills.


Luckily nothing broke, quick oil change and a change of brake fluid and to some EBC Blue's track only pads, ordinarily I hate EBC but these are meant to be insanely good.


Couldn't catch Iain, I'm too much of a girl in the corners!! Pads are insanely good, got Carbon Lorraine RC6's on order, proper racing pads!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Re: C20 XE Build and Re-build

So I know porn isn't allowed but this is as close as it gets!!













The basic spec run down is :-

Early XE block
86.5mm super tech forged pistons
Williams rods
Early crank
12.5:1 CR
Coscast head port bored to SRE specs (So I'm told)
Newman PH5 inlet and exhaust cams
+1mm wasted stem inlet and exhaust valves
solid buckets with Piper double valve springs
Modus lightened flywheel
Helix 4 paddle clutch and cover plate
Everything is being balanced
All running through my Jenvey direct to head Throttle bodies with blue VXR injectors
Mapping and running in will be by Track and Road
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Re: C20 XE Build and Re-build

While all that's being done at the engine shop,

This has happened at the workshop







Doing a few bits while the engine is out, re-wiring the whole car again, hate the way the wiring looked.



Added a pedal box cos I can't heel and toe properly with the standard Nova pedals and it annoys me.



Ditched the heater, got a heated screen so not worried about that and the car is always hot so figure I'll make do!!



Decent bit of weld penetration!!

So that brings us up to today, as it's winter re-build I'll try and keep this thread a bit more updated for everyone to have a look at.
 

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Head work looks great, that new engine should be awesome. Liking the pedal box, like how you've done the lines too.

Love watching your track videos too.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Head work looks great, that new engine should be awesome. Liking the pedal box, like how you've done the lines too.

Love watching your track videos too.
Thanks mate, hopefully a lot more to follow!!!
 

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Making great progress :thumb:

Any chance of more pictues and/or info' on the use of the turnbuckle on the tensioner - don't recall seeing it done like that before?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Mr Gordo, I stole the idea from a touring car engine I saw somewhere.

The turn buckle :-

turnbuckle

The rose joints here :-

Rose joint left and right

Lock nuts :-

Half nut left

Half nut right

You'll notice this is a different design to the one I have, the one I've used I had to cut the rose joints down to get it to work, this should work a lot better.

You'll also need a circlip M8 to put on the pin to hold it on. It's so much easier to get cambelt tension correct with the adjuster!!

Can also be used as an alternator tensioner aswell!!
 

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Mr Gordo, I stole the idea from a touring car engine I saw somewhere.

The turn buckle :-

turnbuckle

The rose joints here :-

Rose joint left and right

Lock nuts :-

Half nut left

Half nut right

You'll notice this is a different design to the one I have, the one I've used I had to cut the rose joints down to get it to work, this should work a lot better.

You'll also need a circlip M8 to put on the pin to hold it on. It's so much easier to get cambelt tension correct with the adjuster!!

Can also be used as an alternator tensioner aswell!!

We use a nearly identical adjuster (just bigger rose joints and adjuster) for the alternator on the rally cars.

Cracking project, nearly making me sad that I've just sold mine.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks for the comments

I used one on the alternator but as I'd used different rose joints and cut them down I ran out of adjustment and kept getting belt slip, I swapped back to the original tensioner for the alternator but will make up a rose jointed one again while the engine is out.
 

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Good, thanks. IIRC,SBD have a brace for the early tensioner (that seems to be discontinued?) but this seems a better solution.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I just figured it was a better solution than trying to use a 1/4 inch ratchet to tension the cambelt, it's so much easier in the Nova too cos there isn't a huge amount of room down there!!

I don't know about the SBD one mate, I like their stuff but it's really expensive in my opinion.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
More porn for you!!





Hubba hubba Schawing
 
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