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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a set of ARP's to replace my OEM rod bolts, Iv looked at the ARP manual about installing them and i have the prodcedue for streching them.

As im doing it with the rods in situe a dont want the cap falling off, lol.... So i take it i should do one at a time? Do i do the full strech prodcedure on one bolt then do the next, or fit one, then the other, and then do the strech procedure?

Prob a daft question but as iv never done it before i want to know the basics :)

Heres a link to the ARP Catalog and Tech Guide

http://www.arp-bolts.com/Catalog/Catalog.Images/2005ARPCatalog.pdf
 

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i would do them two at a time, i.e a rod at a time, the cap shouldnt fall off anyway as it has a film of oil between the bearing and crank

but tbh, i dont know why you wouldnt want the cap to come off, i mean, you have to coyuntersink the bolt holes anyways, and it would give you the opportunity to fit some new bearings while your there
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I havn't seen anything on counter sinking the heads?

Any details / measurments?

:eek:
 

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well, ARP bolts have a small radius under the bolt head, meaning you need to put a 1mm countersink on the rod cap, otherwise all the load of the bolt goes through that radius, not good

i do remember reading somehwhere ARP are doing some sets now that dont require a contersink, so maybe you have some of them, should say on the packet though
 

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only if you have measured them upon first fitting, so you can see if they have stretched more than tolerance allows
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
CraigGreen said:
ARP's are re-useable arent they?
Depends on how much they have streched, you need to have measured them when new and then measure once used. Any more that .001" and they cant be used again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
My bolts are the PRO range, the instructions only say about the strech method, nothing about counter sinking. Il have a look if there is a radus under the head :beer:
 

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well, i remeber fitting giles' set last time and his packet said about no need to countersink, but that was on steel rods with arp2000 bolts, worth a look though;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
These are arp2000 bolts, but standard turbo rods. Doesn't mention anything about counter sinking... but cheers for the info, il have a look once im home :)
 

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I don't see the point of uprated head bolts unless you are running higher compression ratio or a lot of boost. :S
 

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it's lucky he's not fitting uprated head bolts then.
 

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Arp2000 iiirc do need the rod caps countersinking. Also if my memory serves right i belive they are just lubed up and cranked in at 43lbft(no stretching)
Maybe worth triple checking.
 

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hmm i got the ARP bolt kit right infront of me but how do i tell if they the pro series or arp2000? lmao

p.s. i was told this is how u fit them btw 'there 65Nm 3 times mate with some grease on the threads and under the head' is this right?
 

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any arp rod bolt to be used in STANDARD rods needs a 1mm counder sink, this can easily be done with a hand drill, takes about 5 seconds on each bolt hole, and you just use a normal counter sink bit from B&Q etc.
should look like this.....



coat the the threads and under the head of the bolt in the arp supplied lube or molly grease,
torque up to 33LBFT, undo, re-torque to 33LB/FT, undo, re-torque to 33LB/FT for a final time

on steel rods torque to 43LB/FT once.
 

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im interested in why steel rods are different torque to standard rods.
surely its the bolt spec that requires the correct poundage.
the arp 2000 prowave bolts i use specifly 46lb torque 3/8 unf
this is because they have a higher clamping strength than standard arp bolts.:)
 
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