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Hard to say, but I'd be about 95% sure that that scoring was initially/largely due to FOD (foreign object debris) getting into the supercharger, rather than the 'charger itself - unless you can be sure the bearings at that end were worn enough to allow the rotors to move that far?
What filtration are you running to ensure the air getting into the engine is clean?
 

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Edit seems to be playing up...

Something to bear in mind is that much of the debris from the supercharger housing and rotors may have found it's way into the engine...
 

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MIGWeb Lord
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Discussion Starter #646
So stripped the front end off and everything is caked in mud so had to dig it out and clean everything off before re fitting


Old boost pipe set up, wanted to remove the silicones as they suck flat under closed throttle, can’t find any 3” to 2” tight 90’s so they will stay for now


After



Also removed the twin fan shroud as wasn’t really needed, free’d up a bit of space too


Added some rivits to the bottom of the splitter mounts in case I go off roading again


All back together, just waiting for the other puller to turn up so I can finish the charger
 

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MIGWeb Lord
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Discussion Starter #647
More parts have arrived, gonna chuck some valve treatment through it as it’s a old engine and I also needed a octane booster as I ended up filling up before race two at Oulton and the petrol station there only had 97 ron so need it back up to 99 Ron. Also decided to go for the 625 battery as it’s a better all rounder than the the 680, only downside was the shape is slightly different but I managed to get it into the battery cage



Also fitted the new latches to hold the back bumper on should I get rear ended again
 

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MIGWeb Lord
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Discussion Starter #648 (Edited)
So in true last minute motorsport style, I had to remove the supercharger again as it was making noises still, stripped it down and put some more grease in the needle bearings and changed the oil to gearbox fluid and it was a lot quieter, not perfect but useable.


All set up for race day, cars running roughly 30bhp down so qualifying was always going to be tough against my fellow class B racers, managed 10th and 11th for the two races, killed a CV joint at the end of qualifying so pulled in



Race one and not the best start as got boxed in and lost a place to the mini but got it back a few corners later, into a great battle with the 1.8T 20v mk2 golf until another CV joint gave up retiring me from the race




Race two got a better start and again was into a good battle with the golf, he had me on the straights but I was all over him on the brakes and cornering, was just never close enough on the part I was a lot faster to put a move on him and get past safely. Yet another CV joint died ending my race, this time it spat the shaft out mid bend


Some others of the races


Back at the workshop on bank holiday Monday I decided to look over the car, as you can see I’ve done a proper job of the CV joint, it also took out the bottom link hose on the calliper. I decided to pull the whole lot out and check everything over as I just wasn’t happy with the engine, found my exhaust leak which was causing it to run a bit rich on the wideband, welded the crack back up.




Dropped the oil and found a sump plug full of bearing liner, despite no knocking noise this is obviously a knock on effect from when the oil hose popped off at donnington Park. Stripped all the parts off the old engine I’m keeping and gave them a good clean through in the parts washer.


Made a new magnetic sump plug using a drilled out standard one. Stripped both engines fully and started to build up when the dipstick tube snapped off leaving the bottom section in the sump still, thought I’d knock it down and use a magnet to get it out the sump plug hole but it bottomed out in the tube recess so had to make a tool to pull it back out as it was late and I really didn’t want to have to take the sump off


Will finish it off tomorrow.

So the CV failure is a mix of the cheap CV grease burning off and drying out the joint and excessive engine/gearbox movement. So I’ve ordered some high temp grease and some two part polyurethane mix to poor into the mounts as the old sikaflex was just not up to the job anymore, ripped it all out and de greased them ready.


Race 1
https://youtu.be/ziIsA0fd2AI

Race 2
https://youtu.be/EOWurzDyXYk
 

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I posted this in a video's comments*, actually discussing rally 'shafts, but most still applicable and the video is worth watching, too.

Sorry, guys, but that video was about three times longer than it needed to be with so much repetition and rambling. Some points you missed were The importance of using a GOOD quality CV grease due to the very high loadings on the components. A basic precaution that can be used with driveshfts - when they are new draw a line along their length - sometimes a shft will fail catastrophically without warning but normally the shaft will twist first and the line will show this, a replacement would be a good idea with a 1/8 twist and certainly by the time it got to a 1/4, if it got that far. Shot peening will extend their service life, but may not be financially viable. Some things to watch out for when cleaning the joints, if they are servicable, is if any discolouration is present (indicates hot running), any metallic particles (can indicate breaking up of the cage or other part) or any markings on the balls. When purchased, the joints should be stripped, cleaned (not unknown for manufacturing debris to be left behind), inspected and, if budget allows, crack tested. Dry assemble the joint and check for tight points and, if they are present, polish them out with some W&D as they will affect the steering feel, add drag, and could cause hot spots - some teams will even replace the supplied balls with slightly undersized ones to minimise the joint friction. Many/most vehicles have the steering stop between the stub axle/bearing carrier and wishbone or elsewhere, if so, it is much better to build that up than build a stop into the rack - especially if that is solidly mounted - as otherwise and hard impacts will be fed directly into the rack on lock, increasing the probability of a breakage there (a flexible material will help cushion this, though).

I suspect your CVs had several issues - maybe a bit too tight - they should be free rotating at all angles and a tight spot will cause localised overheating - if it is a little tight, you can run them on a road car for a k miles, or so, to help burnish the high spots, that should help.
We don't have that supplier down here, but they looked like 'pattern 'parts, which may be fine for normal duty, but you are putting a LOT more load and heat into them, so it will pay to get the best shafts you can - even if you have to pay for some custom built ones. You've already found out how expensive 'cheap' ones can be.

*https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tkukG_J2ZzE&t=108s
 

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MIGWeb Lord
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Discussion Starter #651
Joints are free moving and don’t lock at all but the grease supplied isn’t up for what I’m asking of it. Never been a issue in the past using same joints and grease but I’m now running a gripper diff, wider semi slick and harder poundage springs so it’s got a lot more mechanical grip. I will try with the new high temp grease and solid engine mounts and see how I get on before spending big on custom joints.
 

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MIGWeb Lord
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Discussion Starter #652
Swapped the chains over, now running full GM kits. New gaskets and oils, gone for 10w 60 this time around. All back together and ready to drop back in, just waiting on the polyurethane to turn up so I can do the engine mounts.
 

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MIGWeb Lord
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Discussion Starter #653
Made a new link pipe for the caliper as it got damaged, neaten it up after the photo and gave it a quick splash of paint


Bought some more high temp cv grease for the spares, some more brake fluid, valve cleaner for the new engine, had the injectors ultra sonically cleaned at Relentless performance and got some brake disc temp paint, turns white once up to the certain temp so I will have a idea of how much heat there producing. Also some two part polyurethane mix, went for a cure rating of 85. Mixed it up and poured it in, will clean any excess off and the engine is ready to go back in now
 

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MIGWeb Lord
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Discussion Starter #655
Shame about the joint failing again but good result on removing that snapped dipstick tube.
Cheers mate

So not updated for a while as I’ve been busy, managed to get the new engine in but ran out of time and money getting a new charger and other race costs so ended up missing the race at rockingham on the 9th of June and bloody typical it was filmed and will be shown on motors tv, ah well next time. Engine in just waiting on new charger and cv joints. Mounts got a quick spray.




So decided to further my skill set as only have 5 years left to serve in the marines so want to get some handy courses under my belt before I leave. First up was a window tinting course, big thanks to John and the guys at extreme tinting in Chester for the excellent instruction, picked it up quick and so John had me tint his sons car


Next course was a automotive locksmith course up in Wakefield. Scary how easy old locks are to pick and with a Astra G taking less than 10 seconds. Newer stuff is getting much harder but soon picked it up but something you need to keep practicing for sure.


And the last course was a vehicle wrapping course back up at extreme tinting in Chester. Had been tasked by my boss to wrap his T4, but first I had to get it flat so a days worth of bodywork and bodge it was ready.


Then onto the wrap itself, preparing the van for the wrap was the worst bit for me as I hate cleaning cars and this has so much crap around the rubber seals etc, clay barred and then various cleaners after and it was ready for the vinyl.


Being the bosses van I couldn’t not add a few personal touches, bonnet one is removable but the surfing penis is embossed so that’s permanent


Was the bosses colour choice and I wasn’t sure to start with but it grew on me by the end, not bad for 4 days work.
 

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MIGWeb Lord
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Discussion Starter #660
Sorry I’ve not updated this for a while but I’ve been working abroad a fair bit.

Anyway I’ll bring you all back up to date:

Built up the shafts and spares with all new CV joints, high temp grease and new boots.
Also wasn’t happy with the last bottom calliper pipe so made a tighter fitting one


Stripped the new supercharger and welded up the silencer holes, gave it a port out and smoothed the casting on the outlet side. Also ported the neck out and welded smooth the sensor hole also gave the mating face a skim. While the grinder was in my hand I decided to lighten the casing as much as I could by removing the various lugs and redundant bracket holders. Put all new needle bearing grease in, filled with the same oil I use in my gearbox and gave it a zinc silver paint job.


Whipped the inlet off and gave the mating face a quick skim also. Fitted new water hoses (well just the main hose) and put it all back together


Heat painted the rear discs and added temp stickers to the rear callipers just so I can keep an eye on the heat range I’m putting them through.
Cars too low for the over the tyre hooks on the tracking kit and using a ratchet strap was so fiddly I decided to use zip ties and it works perfect, solid as a rock and quick and easy to fit. Track it up, added some extra camber to the front left as I’m testing at brands hatch Indy circuit which is predominantly a right handed circuit with a high speed off camber down hill first bend.
Also treated her to a wash as she was thick with workshop dirt and dust



So on the 11th of March was the cars first outing at brands hatch Indy circuit, was a great opportunity to give the car a good shakedown pre season and iron out any niggles etc.

Happy to report I had no issues all day, CV issue is no more and new engine and charger ran fine.
I think the exhaust manifold has cracked again as wide band readings ended up very rich and seemed to be down on power as the AFR’s are 10.3 at WOT. I don’t have time to make one so will probably just bite the bullet and buy a Tullet one and that will solve that issue.
Selection of pictures from the day


Been invited to the Mission Motorsport 7th anniversary trackday at Goodwood circuit on the 19th of March. They are wanting me to take the beneficiaries out for hot laps round the circuit, I can’t complain it’s free and I get to test the car more and get some seat time so win win.
Had to fit the passenger seat, borrow a harness and even fitted a foot rest for them.


Gave the car a full nut and bolt check, changed the old worn out tyres off the front, bleed the brakes and re did the tracking to suit the circuit.


I’ve found the love again for the car and can’t wait for the first two races at brands hatch Indy circuit on the 13th of April.
 
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