[dewismotorsport]

Quick test start and soon found out the throttle body relocation wouldn't work as it would need a second throttle plate on the end of the charger still because when the throttle is shut it just pumps air out the BOV, I made it so it unbolted and the feed pipe was swapped from the charger end. May re visit this at a latter date but for now BOV has been removed.

Needed more camber on the front coilovers and wanted to do away with the camber bolts as I find they can slip under hard driving, die grinder'd the holes longer and removed the tabs.
Also weighed the car and corner weighted it, I literally can't get anymore weigh out of it so I need to run 290-295bhp to be top of my power to weight class of 240bhp per ton after race weight with me in it.






So in the need to up the power I've added a much smaller 2.7"pulley, plan with going that small is to get good power from low down with the opportunity to limit the revs if need be to get the required power figure I need. I have the option to run unto 8k now with the valve springs but current cams may not be perfect that high up but I have bought a over sized alternator pulley to prevent me destroying the alternator if I do go that high



So with this Covid-19 crap dragging on, mapping has been canceled twice so I've dug out the old corsa turbo 3" exhaust, so will get round to making a new system for the astra before it does get mapped as thats one less restriction, current one is 2.5"


So also with the boredom of this pandemic I've had a few ideas, first off was to buy a Saab B207R engine so I could use the head, and crank for my shelved forged engine. The Saab crank has the correct stroke for what my LSJ pistons need, just need to buy some LSJ steel rods and a Saab TTV flywheel I'm all sorted. Bought this 82K engine off eBay with the plan to take the crank and head off it, will port the head at a later date for the forge engine build


Then bored on eBay one night this Saab 9-3 2.0L turbo B207R came up and ending the following morning, last few seconds bid and it was mine for £400 runs and drives just has a judder below 2k rpm when warm. Plan for it is to use the full engine loom, coil pack, sensors and T8 ECU and use the T8 suite to self map it. Basically a cheaper version of OBD tuner as this software is free. Might not work but speaking to some people who have mapped these ecu's they seem to believe it will work fine. I'm happy being the test dummy as nothing ventured nothing gained.
The box of tricks allows me to talk to the ecu once I knock up a OBD adaptor lead. Will copy the standard map of the car and then see how kitballows me to change it on the running car before I break the car for bits.

 

[nova16sv]

wow, massive update there mate. youve been busy.

good job getting all the work done, and scoring a 2nd in the racing.

looks like youve turned this coupe into a bit of a beast

 

[dewismotorsport]

wow, massive update there mate. youve been busy.

good job getting all the work done, and scoring a 2nd in the racing.

looks like youve turned this coupe into a bit of a beast

Yeah quarantine has allowed me to finally catch up as works just been so busy I don’t get any free time anymore.
I’ve hopefully finally ironed out all the niggles and 2nd in class out of 73 teams is not to be sniffed at.
Car is finally getting it where I want it, just the power to sort and I’m in a great place for when the season finally starts

 

[Gordo]

Haven't tried it, but you may be able to use half of a serrated washer (the sort that resists loosening) on each side with the fine teeth against the strut and the larger ranps against the nut - the serrations may 'bit' into the metal enough to securely lock it.

 

[dewismotorsport]

Being bored often leads to more eBay purchases, so here we have yet another B207R engine this time fully complete, will just sit on this one until I decide what my future plans are.


Another purchase was a OBD Tuner Ecu, also known as Dutch software. This is basically a standard Ecu but with witch craft inside to allow you to self map it as you would a aftermarket Ecu so I can now make my own adjustments in future.


Car was booked pre lockdown to have the original Ecu mapped so not wanting to lose my money I decided to just get them to do the wide open throttle stuff done on the dyno and I’d do the rest at a later date.
Decided I wanted to run the new Ecu on a 2.5 bar Tmap sensor and run a wideband sensor into it via the spare egr feed so stripped my original loom back to find the wires I needed to make that happen.
Also dug another spare astra loom out to label up before modifying to run the same.
Managed to get hold of a quad battery from work to use as my old battery had given up the ghost



Annoyingly before dyno day my obd elm 327 had got lost in the mail so I couldn’t do a lot of the basic settings before getting there which was annoying so had to push it onto the rollers which is never ideal.
At the rollers and up and running the WOT runs were done and few issues arouse in that the intake tubing was strangling it, car ran 1psi more boost without it so will re design a new airbox set up and the car needs aftermarket cams as it made no more power after 6800rpm so new limit of 7800rpm isn’t needed yet.


Few days later after the dyno my replacement reader finally turned up all be it with a snapped disc but after finding the drivers online I could finally get my own laptop linked up to the Ecu to do my own bits.


Took the car down to a mod test track and did some fuel learning runs and mapped them in, car runs so much smoother now and pulls like a train compared to old really rich map. You can put the Ecu into learn mode and drive it through the revs in closed loop and it stores the info, the cells go green once the Ecu has enough info for that box. Once saved all the blue cell’s are the ones I’ve changed, second is the finished (for now) ignition map.


Thought it would be rude not to take some pictures while I was down there as it was clean and shiny for a change.