[MSG]

Another Corsa 1.4 Auto, its selector leaver wont shift even when brake pedal is pressed, found the problem with a small twin microswitch that has 3 wires near the selector leaver, this switch is also responsible for ignition key staying locked in and unable to be removed from the barrel.

So I have been looking at this micro switch, appears to be bad switch, someone suggested re-soldering so i did that, and all seems to work now, the shifter leaver moves into drive etc, when brake pedal is depressed, but for some reason or another the Engine will not crank at all now.

On the dash speedo display, 3 yellow bars display which the owner did not seen before. Also the display will no longer show in which position is the selector leaver, so I my guess is one of the many other wires may have got pulled as the center console was being removed by the owner, not by me, I would have taken more care of not tugging or pulling on the wires.

Any other thoughts on this please let me know what else can it be, even the LED indicator lights near the selector leaver do not illuminate to indicate which position the leaver is in.

Owners get these problems and start to look into it and finally when nothing else works for them I am called upon, but all i can do is ask here, as I do not have any experience in fixing Corsa electronics.
Thanks in advance

 

[MSG]

Ok I have diagnosed the problem, with the help of this very useful site Fuse box Opel/Vauxhall Corsa D,

Yes I do not have access to wiring diagram or Haynes workshop manual so

With the help of this site, I was able to locate the Starter Motor cranking relay, as per Fuse Box diagram (Pre 2007) and as per legends on their picture it was relay R8, but on the fuse box cover it is embossed as R18, I bridged the contacts and the engine fired away, and ran smoothly, so relay coil was not getting +12v to it, and the reason was Fuse F50 as per legend on the diagram from this site, it was blown however, the owner when he tested all the fuses, he found them all good because he was using a tester that beeps and indicates via a RED and a GREEN LED, so very easily misdiagnosed by this tester, as it was showing presence of -ve on both sides of the blown fuse, don't ask me how, so once you get the same potential at both ends of a fuse you would think the fuse is OK, but it was not, so when I took the same tester and checked all the fuses myself, but this time with the ignition ON, then the tester revealed F50 fuse blown up, we found it was a 5A fuse however the site chart indicates it should be 15A, so we compromised and put in a 10A fuse and problem got resolved. Thanks for your help. May be you too can learn from this how to check fuses, however there is no better way to check a fuse than to physically remove it and inspect it visually and then electrically through an Ohm resistance tester.

One happy owner, Bob's his Uncle and Fanny is his Aunt