Vauxhall Owners Forum banner

221 - 240 of 240 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
234 Posts
Discussion Starter #221
yeah there sure is,i was looking at a forum of "before & after" and literally everyone was just new alloys!
lol what were you rolling in? i hope you showed em up?
Everyon loves a vag eh,usually its good to be surrounded in them but 4 is a lot :ROFLMAO: take that how however you read it
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
234 Posts
Discussion Starter #222 (Edited)
Just checking in here as i have had a lot of real world nonsense going on and it has been a while.

My roofing and joists are here so i will hopefully have a roof up and then a workbench so i can empty my tools out of the astras boot and actually crack on for once...im super excited about it!
in the mean time i have done a few of the parts that have been frying my brain for the longest time.

Firstly are the sections of the sideskirts where i cut off the old moulded on arches that left large gaps. Instead of fibreglassing them back solid, I decided to make plastic cover plates made from my daughters old storage drawers that unbolt via rivnuts but at the moment only screwed on and need a few more.
Within these removable sections is access to huge bolts and brackets that support the skirts, never mind using crap self tappers or rivets,these things are beefy! I also have two rivnuts inside the doorjamb for a lil extra.
I have covered em in a lil carbon wrap accent to match the carbon bonnet when i re-laquer it that is.
Originally i started with metal ones but they were clunky,heavy and awkward on the curves of the skirts. The plastic was easy cut,shaped and it flexible.





Next was to tackle my most pondered area which was where the extra wide bumper met the extra wider then it used to be arch flare. It has been frying my brain but ALAS i think i sussed it.
I cut the arch down to flow with the bodyline of an original bumper and then used metal and welded together two plates that flow with both the curve of the overarch and the sweep up of the bumper into where the original arch would have been on the side profile. It was complicated to look at and work out for me with so many angles to take into consideration but such a simple thing when complete.
I then made little dimple things to match the ones on the arch to bolt the piece on,they are a lil rough but of course i need to finnesse and bodywork these as the metal i used was beat up before i used it also.
Underneath these plates i will have huge fixing bolts and washers for the bumper which will be stronger than fibreglassing brackets into the bumper like what would have been.
It may not look like much work but to me it has been a fair effort on my brain.











I also lined up the headlights and fixed them in nice and straight as a couple of the top brackets were broken and i can't fix em(I tried allsorts trust me) I just need to sand and polish the lenses now.
The next thing i wanna tackle is the front bumper as it needs fixed after some bint hit me in B&Q then drove off the very last day it was on the road whilst i was in store.
Just like all the other parts its aged and twisted etc so this shal be fun..I wanna keep experimenting with splitter ideas,so if you have any please inspire me,i have a few more ideas i reckon
And remember there is alot of work still to do around those skirts they need trimming and filling
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
556 Posts
lol what were you rolling in? i hope you showed em up?
Everyon loves a vag eh,usually its good to be surrounded in them but 4 is a lot :ROFLMAO: take that how however you read it
i was in a big bus toyota mpv.
no showing up in that car, its automatic, and heavy.... takes about 3 weeks to get it upto 60, haha.

those front arch joins came out better than i thought they would. pretty smart.
better off having them split like that, rather than a permanent join. makes maintenance way easier, if you ever need to pull bits apart.
monster cooling ducts, on the rear tyres there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
234 Posts
Discussion Starter #224
lol fair enough. Yeah i was really worried about them looking really weird but i'm glad you approve,now i am sure they are great with second opinion n all. yeah the whole point of this redesign/newish kit or whatever to call it is for easy maintenance and less cracking etc with the old moulded arches etc and scraping tarmac with the pan is old days nonsense too,a lil bit higher/non tucked ride height is fine by me. I started stripping down and sorting out the V6 loom lastnight and it's quite theraputic job to be fair i like electrics side of things. I will try keep updates coming but as of yet still no roof up :( so i;m holding back as i need to roll car out to build roof so don't wanna strip back axel to tidy it up as when i do guaranteed it will be the day the guys wanna do the roof
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
234 Posts
Discussion Starter #225
Quick update

My old center panel with the fibreglassed tv in it was all cracked with getting thrown around the garage over the years plus i want a tablet in the dash instead of a stereo unit and also gonna make nicer looking heater controls,i mean come on vauxhall they look horrendous.
I used metal and it sits nicely on the lip that the original center sat on and i have 5 magnets attached around the plate so it holds nice and can be removed with ease to allow ample access to wiring behind it. Oh also i will just keep the heater vents at the sides and block off the center ones again.
I covered it with the same wrap as the other detail parts.the grain ended up going on the wrong direction even after checking the gear and ashtray parts i already wrapped fml i will redo later but i also fancied up the dials to match with the 4 yellow rims to match my 4 yellow rims haha i am all about the details.
Also sorted the seat rail for driver seat and bunged that in...when i finsh the rear section of thecentre console i will get matching rears but for now i don't mind them being scuffed back there.






Also here is a better view of the sideskirt fixings i made in the last post




The next large problem was making sure the front bumper was secured properly to the car before i started messing with that damage and also trimming so wheels don't touch.
I made some metal brackets and bolted in with fat bolts and its hidden unde the arch and the front piece i made last week or so. I am well pleased it worked out nicely and again practical and accessible




Now with the bumper neatly tucked in all the places it should be i can fix that badly fitting part under the drivers light that is lower towards the grille and finess all the other edges.
I am toying with the idea of creating actual functional air holes in the center as that V6 gets superduper hot in the bay and i always wondered how to address it...this should help and also i think it fits the style but more opinions are required as i am not fully certain it looks good. If i was to do it i wouldn't just cut a hole like most but i would try and make a thickness to it if you understand what i mean like 1/2" deep lip to the inside of the holes?!




I ended up drilling the most simple of holes above the crash bar to fix bumper on ended up taking huge chunk out my hand,same place i sliced open on the sills last year...The sharp bit that the chuck cogs around ended up going straight down through it at full speed so i am missing chunk and it burnt it around the wound omfg i tell you this because it was horrific and i panicked and my wamen said i ran in the house saying "i have a big bad booboo this time" therefor thought i was joking. I don't even remember and i don't think i have used the term "booboo in my life" haha plonker.
But savlon, plasters, electric tape and vented dirt protection glove will have to do for now.



Final thing i did was needed new bulbs so trying some LED 3000K bulbs and they are afa bright in the garage...hopefully they don't dazzle or i will have to change em but i read alot about the led and i think should be fine?

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
234 Posts
Discussion Starter #226
Heyo, haven't been updating in a while as have been busy building this garage mainly and fixing the house. I only have a few pics for now.
The metal roof is up with joists n all.
I started work on the back wall today before i remove the old gate/fence...I wanna save that tree as its affa bonnie in summer haha.
I got all the carcasses and both worktops,all brand new with doors and 6 strip lights aswell as 3 solid 6 panel doors and some slat boards, all in exchange for removing a large kitchen extraction in an old market that has now closed down for good. I had a couple hours to grab as much as i could as there are units who left all sorts behind. so went bananas until i couldn't pack any more into my hearse...thank **** i had it!
well over £1000 of stuff,cost me a parking ticket but imma appeal it regardless
I ran power from house so now i have lights and sockets!
I also got a huuuge jawed vice from my partners dads basement,it pulls out for miles.
Sooo i just need to get some pegboard to put tools up onto and i'm sorted. Waited many years for something like this to work out of,alot still to do but very usable and pleased so far.
I also have a wee thinking corner which i will have 2 chairs in and a proper table eventually.
Also It is the first time the Astra has seen daylight in ages whilst all this is going on...I quite like how its coming on personally.






 

·
Registered
Joined
·
234 Posts
Discussion Starter #228
thank you,thank you :D yeah it is looking sad but i took it up to the old garage so away to put the V6 back in next week and have more updates i hope, i'm planning on smoothing out the bay and tucking everything i think
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
234 Posts
Discussion Starter #229
It has been a while since i updated but i have spent weeks finding and sourcing broken and missing parts, bolts and sensors that i have no idea the part name or numbers for.
I spent a fortune believe it or not getting things like replacement gear select cables for the F23 and another rear gearbox mount cos who knows where mine is and silly things like that.
One of which is the image below...what is this and can i remove it? It leads into the manifolds and has a phat rubber hose hanging from it,surely it wasn't a water hose? it has been so long since i had this engine installed that i have forgotten everything, fml!
Also apparently there is no haynes for these either so i can't even check that way.
this is NOT my engine btw,it is one off google


I have also been super busy stripping down both the engine harness and car harness shedding alot of wasted wires. Had to create my own pinout file for the vec ECU to loom as could only see partial ones on the web but should future proof me.
Both harnesses are going back in car temporarally spliced just to drive it a mile back down the road where i can tuck it all properly, I need the car moved back home as winter is here and i can not work outsdie anymore(especially since i built the garage now)
I will just get the engine running enough to limp me home i hope.



On another note i remember someone asking how i did the drivers bracket. This was the one i used before,i can't find the three spacer tubes so i repleaced with box section for now, when i get home i will get round tube again and weld onto the bracket itself.
Then i will trip it up a bit so it isn't so large but it was also supposed to be temporary even then.






It sure seems strange going backwards to FWD and redoing/tryna remember everything but that is life and that is why i documented it in the first place haha, I will keep updating when i get it home again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
556 Posts
ohh V6 is in.
nice. good work.

i think that bit youve arrowed, looks like it might be the secondary air pump.
if im right, it will have a small pipe, going to the exhaust manifold.

it pumps air into the exhaust pipe, while the engine is cold, to counter-act rich emissions.
it switches off, after 5 or so minutes, when temperatures rise a bit.

its basically a con item, that waters down the exhaust gases, with outside air. they should have called it 'secondary blag valve'

ive seen a lot of people do away with it, but it will leave a small hole in your exhaust manifold, that youll have to make a plate and gasket for, or plug it up somehow.

i could be totally wrong. check where the pipes go, and what they connect to :)

you might find this chap, underneath the heat shield.

22835
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
234 Posts
Discussion Starter #231 (Edited)
That sounds about right, just couldn't figure out where the wide hose led to as it is long enough to reach the water bottle,must have wrapped around the engine instead somewhere.yes that picture is what is connected to it via the manifolds as i had to remove it to remove the manifold. i will surely plug em up and remove this unnecessary thing. Thanks again for your help there nova.

EDIT

just came across this,hope it helps anyone else also
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
556 Posts
a quick way of doing it, would be to trace around the bottom off the shut valve.
cut a small plate out, the same shape, with the 2 holes in, and bolt that in place, using gasket 33, on your diagram.
that will block all 4 exhaust ports, in 1 go.

dont forget to plug up that vacuum line. number 12, in your diagram, or youll have an air leak, at the inlet manifold.

i mistook that valve, for the pump. there part of the same circuit, but 2 different things.


22837


22838
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
234 Posts
Discussion Starter #233
After months of nothing but rain,snow,wind and freezing temps i actually have my car back home so i can work on it without dying in the elements!
5mins home and i started to wheek the engine out and make a mess of my clean worktops :D
Also the roof height is enough to be touching the crane when raised just enough to slide the engine over the slam panel without taking the garage roof off haha lucky me and my maths i forgot to do when building it, oopsy




My plan is to clean up the bay
*smooth out ugly holes and cut unused brackets
*cut hole near the gearcable hole in firewall to feed all the excess wiring so its all invisible and just one or two easy access plugs from underneath as oppose to that stupid 10mm bolt on the astras bulkhead x2 connector
*fix that rust hole on the turret
*send subframe and rear axel off for powdercoating instead of painting myself as my brother gets discount somewhere so he says.

The next big thing is i need to replace the timing belt as its looking cracked so if i am doing that then i may aswell upgrade the block...i can not get a hold of an omega 3.0 block again its nightmare but i have recently found that the 3.2 blocks from newer vectras fit which would be a massive benefit of not being as old or rotten potentially
My question is that i cant seem to get enough info on is either use the block from the Y32SE or z32se?
Also all i can find for sale cheap locally is diesel 3.2 v6 vectras....is that the Y32 block as i dont wanna buy the wrong engine of course

Really need advice on this block though please
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
556 Posts
i believe there the same engines mate, the Z and the Y.
i cant see any 3.2 diesels, in autodata.
the biggest one listed is a 3.0 CDTI.
there was a 3.0 petrol tho, so that could confuse things, but the 3.2 was just petrol, as far as i can tell.

you can find the Z32SE engine in vectra C (2002-2005), and the Signum (2003-2005)

from what i can tell, the Y32SE engine, was only in the Omega B (2001-2003)

youll be best off using one from a vectra, or signum, as the omega is rear wheel drive, and if i had to guess, probably not as compatible, due to manifold layout/starter motor position, etc.

the 3.2's got roughly 40 horse, and 40 torque, more than your 2.5, so should pull better.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
234 Posts
Discussion Starter #235
yeah sorry i got confused yes the 3.0 is diesel thank you. yeah i will go for a Z32 but i have been looking and even they are hard to find fml i will keep trying.
I am gonna start on the engine bay tomorrow i reckon, aint felt right as i think i went too hard the other day and broke myself.
Thanks again nova
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
556 Posts
i will go for a Z32 but i have been looking and even they are hard to find fml i will keep trying.
not so easy to find nowadays. everything seems to have shot up in value since brexit and lockdown. might cost you a small fortune finding all the parts to make it work.

does the 3.2 use the same size clutch, gearbox, and shafts ? i dunno how compatible it is, dont know much about them.

might be easier to just chuck a new cambelt kit on the 2.5 and keep it how it is
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
234 Posts
Discussion Starter #237
true that. it is only the block i need apparently and just use all my x25 parts but that is what i wanted to make sure of first. yeah i was going to clean up the engine real quick and chuck on a new timing belt to get the thing going for now ( safest option ) as i d'ont wanna have it out the car forever until i find a block.

In the meantime this is what i have been upto...






Ground out a heap of brackets...gonna attack that rusty patch
I want to clean up the look of the bay as we know so what i thought about was relocating the expansion tank but it is difficult to keep it high as the size of it.
I thought about in the cowl but it needs to be about an inch smaller all round fml....It is around 7" squared pretty much as it is.
I am considering maybe making a panel that bolts beteen the arch and chassis leg that is tight and looks seamless and have the washer bottle and expansion pop out of it. The expansion tank is only an inch lower than its original location but unsure if i like the look. If i can find a slightly smaller expansion tank that would fit into passenger side cowl i will go for that instead.
Thoughts on either of my choices?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
556 Posts
only the block i need apparently and just use all my x25 parts but that is what i wanted to make sure of first. yeah i was going to clean up the engine real quick and chuck on a new timing belt to get the thing going for now ( safest option ) as i d'ont wanna have it out the car forever.

If i can find a slightly smaller expansion tank that would fit into passenger side cowl i will go for that instead.
Thoughts on either of my choices?
oh i see, the 2.5 heads, and everything on the 3.2 bottom ? .. interesting. not heard of that before.
can the 2.5 ecu keep up with that ?
id imagine the injectors might need swapping over, if the 2.5 ones run out of puff. youll have to do some research, to see.

i havent been on facebook for years, but if theres any vectra c or signum groups on there, you might get lucky, and find someone selling a z32 bottom end.
-
for the tank, where do you mean .. under the scuttle panel plastic ?
not much room, you probably wouldnt be able to close the bonnet, with it sticking up, haha. im not sure.

the corsa c one, is fairly compact, but you can buy all sorts of universal ones, in different shapes and sizes, if your after something specific.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
234 Posts
Discussion Starter #239 (Edited)
yeah what i have read should be okay. i already have the 3.0 injector and larger fpr on it and the 3.0 inlet divider etc
Good idea i may go join some groups as i never thought of that thank you.
i already planted it in there and it is deeper than you think in the corners...i need to lose about 1" all round and it will be fine...maybe one off a corsa might work hmmmm as i dont wanna pay a fortune so may just pop to scrappy.

Also i have decided to not have the full lock issue,bite the bullet and cut shit as oppose to making a collar on steering rack







this should do it...all i need now is essentially i half box with a couple tabs wrapping around all the corners and full weld it.... the original corner material was 1mm thick it seems so i will use the same again...whilst i am at it i will waxoyl the inside of the sills properly. I gave up for today as done something to my forearm,i think i may have been leaning into the brake disc too hard whilst grinding if you know what i mean
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
234 Posts
Discussion Starter #240
After spending 2 weeks tryna get this hearse ready for its mot i actually got around to doing a lil work on the astra.
More cutting required to make sure the wheels don't rub at full lock...I have got it so its around an inch clearance which is great...I just need to weld in some tabs to spot to...I don't think it is needed but I wanna just make it extra beefy...I will be using thicker metal as I said before for the final piece of the wheelwell again might be overkill but I wanna make sure its solid in there incase of accident etc.

Looking down into wheelwell here full lock:
20210225_180237.jpg


looking up at the sill full lock:
20210225_180252.jpg


The inner sill was already bent at 90° so I bent it another 90° and will use to weld to supporting tab
20210225_180318.jpg


in this hole there is a box unsure what it controls but you can see one of the two threads that hold it onto the kick plate area. I just need to move it over a cm or two and will be spot on. Worked out better than I thought and not so scary cutting things out anymore...its good to see how panels are joined together,I used to fear incase I got it wrong cutting shit but I know for the most part its simple to put structure back in...yes yes crumple zones I know.
20210225_180323.jpg
20210225_180332.jpg


I will update more as soon as I can get some thicker metal to work with and clean up all these edges and lines
 
221 - 240 of 240 Posts
Top