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1,681 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)

Some of you you know me from here and other forums. I am writing as alex new. I have a Opel Vectra A'93 facelift (same as Vauxhall Cavalier Mk3) that now I am using for track day use.
It had a c16nz engine, and at 2003 I installed a c20xe engine Ln edition with Bosch Motronic M2.8.
I started to tune the c20xe engine step to step in all sections. The only limits I had was to leave th standard engine managment, the single throttle body design and to have catalysator on the exhaust system. In the last version of my engine it was 2067cc with 87,5mm pistons

The Power results was
220hp and 23,8kgm of torque on TAT Dynamometer
213hp at 7900rpm and 20,95kgm of torque on wheel hubs on Rototest Dyno
Theoritically calculated 230-235hp on Maha Dyno and 215ps/sae on wheel Hubs (Dynapack) (correct multiplier factor =1)

Bellow some older topics with a lot info of the course that had with my engine tuning. I believe will help someones.

Some Videos of my car in action from you tube in 2067cc spec.

Accelaration from second gear 70-165km/h

Accelaration from 1st gear 30km/h to 195km/h plus

Race with 1.8 integra crx from 70km/h

After all these modification I 've builted the same engine with a new engine block to a 2.300cc with new pistons and sold the cams to use some new ones with solid lifters. The new engine worked ok for 2100km (with standard c20xe camshaft) and the happened the catastrophic engine failure.

More info for this in the below links:

Video of the engine failure.
Accelaration on 3rd gear up to rev limiter. Then with 4rth gear and we have the results of destruction. The engine was with the standard c20xe camshafts that's why the engine sound is calmer than the c20xe 2067 spec.

Here some Pictures of the car:


150hp standard

200hp modified with stock internals on engine block - 274 degree camshafts

230hp+ 2067cc forged engine block - 283 degree camshafts

Hello, I am starting to rebuild my c23xe engine.

The current situation of my engine project of rebuilding the c23xe after the engine damage is the below.

Parts I need to find again:

Engine Block 2.2 iron - Ok ( found one from x22se)
Crankshaft 2.2 ecotec -Ok ( I found a xe22se Late type)
Steel Con Rods -ok
One piston Accralite 88mm flat top - Ok
Cometic steel gasket -ok
Arp flywheel bolts – Ok
Repair oil sump and a new oil catch pipe -ok
4 valves for cylinder 1 - Ok
Acl 3-layer main Bearings -ok
A new set of std head bolts for coscast heads -ok
Buy a New oil radiator -ok

Then I will need to overebore the engine block to 88mm using a torque plate, lightening and balancing the crankshaft (remove of balancing gear).

Also I will do some changes this time on the engine and car setup. These changes will be:
Different oil pump (z20leh)
Upgrade fuel pump (Walbro 255)
Dta Management S60
Different wide band sensor ( Zeitronix)
Acl race big end bearings
Crank Vibration Pulley standard (I will remove the aluminum)

The full spec of my new engine setup will be as here:
c20xe distrubutorless DTA S60 Managment
Removed resonator before std c20xe (Vectra A) airbox.
Silicone pipe 90mm diameter fitted in front of airbox to give cold air.
K&N panel filter
76mm pipe from airbox to throttle body
Custom adapter to give smooth air pipe to the strange in shape c20xe throttle body.
c20xe Throttle body overbored to 67mm and shaved pins to give more space area on full throttle. The small butterfly is ovewrbored from 25mm to 28mm.
Custom Intake Manifold (Inlet manifold taper Sbd bolted on custom intake with tapered runners from 43mm to 51mm with hornets inside a plenum of 1700cc capacity. It is 22cm long including the sbd inlet.
Thermal intake end exhaust flanges from ferriday enginering.
c20let yellow injectors 304cc on 3bar (I raised a the fuel pressure regulator to 3,5bar – 3,8 bar) In future Precision injectors 525cc
Walbro 255 Fuel Pump type EXTERNAL
Matching the manifold with the cylinder head.
New Camshafts specs :
Intake: 305 degrees duration, 12,40mm max lift, 270 degrees duration calculated in 1,0mm, 106 degrees full lift, lift at TDC 4,90mm
Exhaust: 285 degrees duration, 12,25mm max lift, 262 degrees duration calculated in 1,0mm, 106 degrees full lift, lift at TDC 4,50mm
Catcams solid lifters
Catcams double valve springs gold series
Catcams aluminum retainers
Kentcams adjustable Verniers

Coscast head (early type 2AH) Ported and polished. The dimension of ports is 49,5mm x 30mm and thru the splitters 26,7mm x 27,5mm.
Coolant mods
The valve seat ported to fit +1mm oversize valves.
Bronze valve guides
Oversize valves Inlet 34mm wasted stem (6mm), Exhaust 30mm (7mm stem).
Accralite Pinstons Flat top 88mm forged with Nippon piston rings
Steel con rods from PPM 148mm
Arp2000 rod bolts
Engine block is x22se from Frontera b.
Removed balancing gears system.
Rebored to 88mm with torque plate, installed with custom internal block girlde.
Skimmed for a squish zone of 1,1mm
Engine capacity is 2300,6cc
The CR eith 94,6 crankshaft and 88mm pistons and skimmed head / block is 12,7:1.
Cometic steel head gasket
Big end bearings ACL RACE 3 layer
Main bearings Acl 3 layer
Crankshaft x22se removed the balancing gear and is knifed edged and balancing
Aluminum Fidanza pot type flywheel 3,5kg - 6 bolts
ARP flywheel bolts
Std crank pulley x22se
Oil pump z20leh with modified oil pick up pipe
Gearbox F20 Standard gears with 4.176CR from D16 gearbox
custom 1st gear 3.33,2nd 1.95,3rd 1.48,4rth 1.13, 5th 0.89
Quaife ATB F20
Quick shift 50% shorter gear travel
Exhaust manifold SBD TYPE C 4-2-1 Primaries diameter 47mm - length (30 inches), Secondaries 54mm, After the collector modified 63.5mm taper to 70mm. In 4rth cylinder I have a EGT sensor.
Racing Cat 70mm diameter with 100 dots per Inch. After the cat the exhaust diameter is 76mm
Magnaflow exhaust muffler 76mm (3") diameter.
Oil radiator (double size from std one).


Flow chart of my head

Oil catch tank

Internal block guirlde custom

The new replacement piston

Arp Flywheel Bolts

Catcams solid lifters

34/30 Valves from Paul Ivey

Dta S60 and valves again

Quaife ATB

Suspension, Brakes, steering, chassis setup

For the handling setup I am doing some changes from the current setup.

The new setup will be:
Front setup
Koni yellows special edition 8610-1263 SPD50 external adjustment
This part number reduce travel 50mm from the std sport model.
I also upgrade the bound valves with (150Nm stiffer) ones.
Front KW springs for 2.0 16v gsi -40mm height
Anti roll bar 24mm diameter old type design. Polyrethane bushings
Saab wishbones with custum teflon eccentric connection that gives more caster, and Polyrethabe Superflex the rear bushing
Front std top mounts modified to give eccentric alligment to give / reduce caster or camber
Sparco aluminimun strut brace

Rear Setup
Gaz rear shocks Gt6-2294 Rebound-bound external adjustment
Rear springs eibach sportline series -30mm
Rear powerflex bushes
Anti roll bar 20,5mm V6
Camber caster kit plates from Eibach
rear z-speed aluminum strut brace

Wheel Setup
New Wheels Rota Slipstream White 16" X 8" ET34, 7,3kg
Tyres Yokohama Advan AD8 225/45/16

Front Brakes Wilwood Dynapro 4 pot with 300 x 25 brake disk from honda s2000
Ebc Yelllow stuff brake pads
Goodridge hoses all around
Rear std 2.0 liter brake disks 260mm

Steering Rack
Power Steering rack from c20let with steering quickener from coleman 1,5:1 ratio. Gives 1,93 turn from lock to lock.


Lightening Modifications

Removing insulation and sound materials and tar -23kg
2 Buckets with aluminium base seats -25kg
Removed Rear seats -13kg
Removed extra wheel 195/60-14 -15kg

Modified front Bonnet -4kg
The brakes and other stuff also are lighter like Saab wishbones, New wheels etc.

Reinforced front subframe with tig and other mods ( Pics in the future)
Reinforced wheel arches


The New wheels

Modified std top mounts to eccentrics for more/less caster / camber

You easily you can see the offset hole of 0,6cm

Saab control arm reinforsment with Teflon and ofsset 1,2cm hole for more caster

Superflex Bushes on saab inner control arm

Polyrethane Bushes for front arb to control arm

Koni revalving - reinforced front bound valves

Kw front springs -40mm

Rear camber caster kit plates from Eibach

Front lightweight Buckets

That's for the moment..

1,681 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Update, look up:D

1,681 Posts
Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Hello again,

I bought a lot new things and I will post photos soon. But for the moment I made my custom hybrid f20/d16w gearbox.

My new Gear ratios are:

1st 3.55
2nd 1.95
3rd 1.48
4rth 1.13
5ht 0.89

fd 4.176 on Quaife differential

So what I did, I seperate the two primary axles of the f20 gearbox and of the d16w gearbox and I combined the 1st, 2nd gear peace of the d16w and the 3rth-4rth gear of the f20 gearbox.

So I succeed to have the same 1st gear (boths gearboxes have the same ratio), the 2nd gear of the d16w gearbox that is a lot longer and goes a lot closer to the 1.48 3rd gear of the f20 gearbox.

So with this setup with the 4.176 final drive is very good for track day using because the 2nd gear can reech +11,5km/h more that helps in most turns that usually don't know if it is better to select 2nd gear near to the rev limiter or 3rd gear with no many torque for the exit. And also the other benefit is that when you go in 3rd gear you are 600rpm higher with this combination (with a rev limiter 8500rpm)
The gear change from 2nd gear of 8500rpm to 3d gear now drops at 6400rpm and not at 5800rpm like the previous setup!

The only disadvantage is the bigger gap from first to second gear but I don't think is a big problem because I will have 2.3 litres setup with a lot of torque combined with the good final drive ratio.
And in reality I never need 1st gear on a track. Only in a drag use you need it but again the 1st gear is the same, the 2nd is changed and my only issue is the synchro's if will be ok in drag use. I believe yes becayse the most Wide gearboxes have the same ratio for many years and working ok. (ofcourse the don't so rev so much..)

I will post photos in few days of the transmission and more other new parts.

1,681 Posts
Discussion Starter #7

Finally I just used a old f16w half primary axle for the 1st and 2nd gear combined with a f20 primary axle for 3rd, 4th gear. I did this because the old f16w primary axle have one more teeth for first gear and gives a gear ratio of 3.42. The bad thing is that the older axle was made for old type first gear that is with simpe syncro but for that reason I made a custom steel billet 1st gear with the modern design with double syncrho.

The std f20 1st gear is 3.545 - 39 / 11 teeths

The std f16 1st gear is 3.416 - 41 / 12 teeths

The custom 1st gear I made is 3.33 - 40 / 12 teeths

So my new ratios are.

1st 3.33
2nd 1.95
3rd 1.48
4rth 1.13
5ht 0.89

fd 4.176 on Quaife differential

More photos in the next days


30,330 Posts
hello alex new! i remember you for many years on mig

why do try so hard to change 1st gear i wonder ? is to reach 100km/h in 1 gear for timing? :cool:

1,435 Posts
looking good buddy

1,681 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
hello alex new! i remember you for many years on mig

why do try so hard to change 1st gear i wonder ? is to reach 100km/h in 1 gear for timing? :cool:

Hello Darren,

No for that. The most important for me was to make a long 2nd gear, so be more usefull in tracks that you don't know what is better for a turn (2nd or 3rd gear), and also because the torque of the 2.3litre engine will be more. One other benefit with a lond second gear is that is a lot more close to 3rd gear! So not a very big drop in revs. With the combination of 4.176 final drive ratio this steps give a very good 2nd, 3rd and 4rth gear for track use.
I tried to make also longer the first gear as it possible can so to be a little closer to long 2nd gear. This protects the syncros when you accelarate from start point and you want to go from 1nd to 2ng gear change.

The standard 3.55 - 1.95 gear drop is not good for a gear change in 8500rp for the syncros as also for a accelaration.

The 3.33 - 1.95 it's something better for both reasons, but the most important change in my gearbox is the long 2nd gear to the close 3rd gear!

Std f16w is:

1st 3.42
2nd 1.95
3rd 1.28
4rth 0.89
5ht 0.73

Std f20c is:

1st 3.55
2nd 2.16
3rd 1.48
4rth 1.13
5ht 0.89

Mine is:

1st 3.33
2nd 1.95
3rd 1.48
4rth 1.13
5ht 0.89

6,711 Posts
looking forward to reading your engine build thread - the only comment I'd make would be with your choice of flywheel - there have been many reports of problems with the insert screws coming loose and also ring gears - for a slight weight penalty, I'd suggest a lightweight steel flywheel with machined on ring gear. Much more reliable.

Did you get a definitive answer for the failure on the old engine? IIRC, we suspected wide bearings on a narrow journal compromising cooling oil flow through the bearing and leading to overheating and rod failure?

1,681 Posts
Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Gordo my flywheel was in the past a Fidanza aluminium 3,5 kg and I did more than 80.000km without problems. My new one for the 2.2 ecotec crankshaft is the same but with six bolts. I use ARP bolts. I don't thing will thave problem with ring gear (i've heard in the past only for some pug's with fidanza with a problem like this.

90% chances for the damage was the side cleareances of the con rods. I had machined them to 21,85mm and the rnd bearings is about 21,9. The new con rods I have is from PPM racing drom Australia and they are 21,69mm.
Unhapilly this con rods have something other that I am worrying.
The have less steel material around the piston pin side and they use a thicker bronze piston wrist. I don't know the reason of that but I don't think that is a good thing...

A photo:


1,681 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Some updates.. And hope until evening some photos.

a) We removed the balancer gear from the x22se crankshaft. And now we are into the lightening process. We will lightening more the crankshaft this time especially on the secondary counterweights.
b) We did some extra ported job to the exhaust side into my head to be nearer to the type c specs exhaust manifold
c) I will use the catcams 4600888 against 4600880

They have more duration but a litle less lift and not a flat nose design. I think it is better for the valve train and better suited for the increased capacity.

The specs of the 4600888 are
inlet 305" 270" on 1mm 12,15mm max lift (included clearence 0,25mm) 4.90mm at TDC on 106degrees
exhaust 293" 262" on 1mm 12mm max lift (included clearence 0,20mm) 4.50mm at TDC on 106degrees

At the rears shocks I didn't bought the gaz shocks.
I did a rebuild to my rear konis. I revalved with a firmer bound valve, and I used a special type air valve so I can re gas them to 1bar pressure. Also I cut the rebound travel -6,5cm because also I bought a custom rear springs from GAS 700lbs.

I will take some photos today to upload them later.

I believe the engine will be ready about 1st February

Ah a new update also is that I will ightening more the car and I have a roll cage I will fit it after the engine completed.

Thats for now.

1,681 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Ok some some pics of the crankshaft prossece. The lightening on the end will be more into the secondary counterwights but will also will lightening the primary counterweights. In the end the crankshaft will be like my old c20xe crankshaft (I have also a pic of this).

x22se photo lightening

c20xe old crankshaft


1,681 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Some pictures of my current exhaust system 2,5". I removed it because I will make a new one with 3" diameter with cat and one muffler setup. Off cource The Muffler will be Magnaflow again.


1,681 Posts
Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Some new pics.
My new Magnaflow muffler.

The new exhaust setup will be as this:
a)Type C BTB Manifold modified to the last colector with a tapered cone after the colector from 2,5" to 2,75".
b)From there 1,10m length exhaust pipe 70mm (2,75")
c)Then my racing metallic cat 100 d.p.i
d) From the cat exit 3" exhaust pipe diameter up to
e) My new Magnaflow muffler 3" diameter size 24" x 5" x 8" satin stainless. It is not so beauty but for the work I need is ok.

Some pics from the new muffler for the moment


1,681 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
My new Z20LEH PUMP. It looks like z20let pumps.


1,681 Posts
Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Hello again. It's time to give some pictures of some serious progress in my engine rebuild.

The engine block is again as it was 88mm accralite flat top pistons, the crankshaft is 94,6mm full lightened knifed edged and balanced. Imade an oil restrictor of 3mm diameter to the ecotec engine block (the std on c20xe engines are 3,8mm-4mm). The con rods are from pure performance motorsport. I am using the z20leh oil pump, with the z20leh pick up that is larger modified to fit in c20xe oil sump. I made some buffles in the oil sump. I use my old custom aluminum t7075 block girlde inside the block.

The head with the engine block have a cometic head gasket with 1,15mm thickness. The squish band zone is 1mm. The head was ported from the past in Sevdalis Super flow center and we didn't touch more the intake side. But we ported more the roof side of the exhaust ports to be better for the 2.3 seup with the exhaust type C manifold.
The cfm values in the inlet side is the same as is was, in the exhaust ports when we do the final measurements in the Super flow Bench I will uprated the flow table.

So here some Pics of the engine block and the head:

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