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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi

Well, after last nights dissapointment with the shearing bolt this morning went rather well.

Decided to gunk the bottom end of the engine/bay and also most of the top. Found my can of spray gunk in the garage and liberally covered the whole engine and ancillaries (I know not the greatest of ideas but I'm getting a short fuse when it comes to this car now).

20 mins later, washed it all off with the "flat" setting on the garden hose (ie. not a jet which just bounces back and covers you when using it, found that out the wet way!)

Very impressed with the latest gunk. Last time I used it was when building my kit car 14 years ago and it wasn't really any good then. This spray stuff rox. No crud left and a nice clean block/head/bay.

A quick spray over with some castrol water repellant to the electrical connectors and then to start her up.

Good news as I start her up and after about 1min the low oil level light goes out, at last we have some progress.

Oil pressure gauge is now also not just maxed out, but it is hovering at 5 and above even after the engine reaches 90'C. No idea if there was a blockage (can't think so as the engine probably has 30 mins on her and don't think it would sound quite so sweet if it had been starved) but clearly we have 2 things which are looking better.

I decide to take her for a quick spurt up the drive (just a quick take off and brake) and I get masses of wheel spin from the front right (parents will not be happy as there is now a nice clean tyre mark about 3 foot long on the new block paved drive). So my question is....

Am I correct in saying that if the 4x4 light is flashing then the car is in 25% drive to each wheel, but if its solidly on then its front drive only but not diff locked?

Anyway, I'm in a slightly better mood than last night, just need to remove the whole accumulator solenoid assy sometime, bleed brakes and sort the sheared bolt and she'll be drivable.

Ideas for the oil pressure gauge and confirmation of the flashing/solid 4x4 appreciated.

ta
Chris

PS. I know the way I went about the gunking isn't to be recommended but I was fed up with spending 5 minutes on a job and 15mins cleaning my hands after. Anyway, it fixed a problem lmao
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The one which signals low oil level, orange i think. The one to the left of the handbrake warning, from memory. Certainly on the left of the instruments not the right side with the 4x4.

I was sure it would be in 2wd but I was suprised by the massive wheelspin, perhaps I'm just too used to the traction control on my Focus.

Tomorrow should see the 4x4 solenoid sorted anyway, I hope.

:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I'm thinking more along the lines of crud in the oilways as the last time the car was used properly the oil pressure (sender) was fine and its still doing something albiet reading too high but I do deffo have pressure.
I didn't actually gunk the back side of the engine which is where the sender is, so perhaps I'll do that tomorrow and see what happens.

Whatever, its perfectly drivable till its on a ramp and all the niggly underside stuff can be done.

It will need a cambelt (just for safety sake and I think I'll get a vernier pulley or 2) and whatever pumps are on that side too I think as there is a slight bearing noise from something on that side. (perhaps the oil pump but in which case how is the pressure so good).

There was some blueish smoke when first started (its not been run for probably 3-4 weeks (after the 3.5 years)) but that cleared although I didn't notice if that cleared the same time as the oil level warning light did.

There was some "grey" (ie. water) air from the exhaust but that could be due to 3.5 year old fuel.

Coscast heads do or don't have the small (1/2" - 3/4") plug under the disty?

Its a 1996 car with a new Vauxhall engine in 1999 so shouldn't be a dodgy head but you never know. It never used to use water though so should be OK. And the only oil it used was a very slight leak from a turbo pipe when it was very hot in summer (slight oil (2 drops max after each trip) on drive).

Accumulator stuff should be accomplishable tomorrow as there is no footy on any more.

Almost there!

:)
 

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Oil pressure gauge could just be a dodgy contact - mine used to show higher pressure which I presumed was a stuck relief valve. However, if the supply wire comes off the gauge goes right round to its stop - found this out the hard way after snapping the wire during a txb swap - replaced the connection and my high oil pressure has fixed itself too :D
 
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