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Discussion Starter #23
Removing the ABS & Brake Pad Sensor wires.

When I removed the harness I cut the wires to the ABS & Pad sensors as I couldn't see how to get them out through the wing.

To remove the loom with these wires intact:

1. Unplug the connectors on each side of the car going to the brake pads.
2. Unplug the ABS connectors on each side going to the hubs.
3. The part of the loom inside the arch can be split and its a choice if you want to leave the lower portion that is attached to the struts, hubs & calipers in place.
4. Unhook the wires from the strut if you wish to and also the inner wing behind the strut. They are held there by little U shaped clips.
5. Carefully push the retaining tabs for the inner wing grommets (where the wires lead into the engine bay - a hard plastic part just behind the strut) down with a small screwdriver (the tabs are located around the edge of the grommet - there is 3 tabs)
6. You can then push the grommets into the engine bay and remove the loom intact without having to cut the wires.

It is important not to cut these wires unless you know what you are doing. The ABS wires are twisted pair shielded cable and not normal wires. The ABS wires contain 2 insulated wires twisted around each other every 20mm + one uninsulated ground wire. These are wrapped in a foil shield. These wires feed to the ABS module plug where the earth is then attached to the main earthing of the loom.

They are shielded for electromagnetic radiation. They are a pig to resolder back together and I hope I have done them correctly. Once the loom is finished and back on we will be able to see if it works correctly. If the ABS light comes on then it probably hasn't.....

The pad sensor wires are just standard automotive cable in a circuit coming from the X2 plug to the passenger side pad then to the other side and then earthed. All these wires do as far as I can see is create a circuit through the pads. When the pads are worn the circuit is broken and this shows a warning on the display.

To remove the wires for the side repeaters, remove the wheels, unclip the arch liners and unplug the connector inside the arches. You will also have to unclip the cable ties to get them out.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Repairing ABS Wires.

It is not recommended to repair ABS wires because of what they do but it is possible with some care. ABS wires are technically known as CAN bus - Controller Area Network - or in other words automotive LAN. ABS wires consist of shielded wires twisted around each other to cancel out electromagnetic interference. The shielding is in the form of aluminium foil or braid wrapped around the twisted wires. The shielding is grounded to earth.

On the Astra the wires consist of a pair of 0.50 mm insulated wires twisted at 25mm intervals, with an uninsulated earth. These are wrapped in aluminium foil and then insulated in heat proof automotive grade insulation.

Here is a run down of a repair:

Strip approx 40mm of insulation off the ABS wire.
Cut the inner wires at unequal length, cutting one as near to the insulation as possible. (Brown & Red Long - Blue & Red short)
Expose 5mm of wires to be soldered.



Cut some automotive grade wires to suit the length of repair to be spliced and also cut one of those shorter than the other. (Blue & White)
Cut some heat-shrink to about 25mm in length and slip them on the wires as shown.
Cut some larger heat-shrink for going over the final repair - make it 50mm longer than you think you need, then you can cut it back if required later.



Solder the short side using as little solder as possible to get an effective join (Blue & Red)
Solder the long side as for the short



Heat-shrink the joins - note I haven't done the earth yet and its out of the way.



Repeat the above for the other end.



Strip some wire and splice it in between the two bare earths. (Note the repair in the other side is heat-shrinked.)



Twist the wires to approx 25mm intervals.



Cut some aluminium kitchen foil to a suitable length and wrap it around the wires - ensuring it touches the earth wire as much as possible.



Heat-shrink the whole lot using the heat-shrink you put on the ABS wires before you made the join.



Cover the whole repair in loom tape to protect. Wrap once diagonally one way and repeat with another layer diagonally the other way.



This is the best I can achieve without buying ABS wire from a supplier which is not cheap and hard to get hold of.

If anyone has some technical comments on it I would appreciate it. I hope it will work as I think it should because its the nearest I can get to the original ABS wire.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Please could someone pm or post some pics of the right hand side of the engine bay please? I am stuck on some of the routing the wires should take in the harness and what bits of cable armour go where.
Specifically I need to see the area under the expansion tank, around the washer bottle outlet, the earth strap and the front of the plastic channel the loom sits in where the ECU is.

I would be grateful - thanks everyone.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Well this evening I have been trying to sort out the routing for the cables and I think I have sussed it OK. Here is a pic' of what I think it should be. Could anyone confirm please?



Once everything is in its place and all bound up properly I will do a photo of the whole loom and mark it all up so everyone can see what it looks like and what goes to where.

Its just this little bit where the loom comes out near the washer bottle spout I am a bit stuck on.
 

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Discussion Starter #37 (Edited)
X2 Plug Wires
Pin Number-Destination-Colour-Size MM

1-Engine-Blue-0.75 (ECU Plug)
2-Bonnet Switch Plug Pin A-Brown/Green-0.5
3-Rear Harness-White/Black-0.75/0.35 (Grey 6 pin Engine Plug)
4-Not used
5-ABS, ESP, Power Steering-Black-0.75
6-ABS Module Plug Pin 20-Brown/Yellow-0.35
7-Earth-Brown-0.5
8-Simtec Plug Pin 37-Brown/Blue-0.5 (ECU Plug)
9-Brown Cylinder Connector Pin 14-Blue/White-0.5
10-Brown Cylinder Connector Pin 6-Blue/Green-0.75
11-Cruise Control Plug Pin B-Black/Yellow-0.75
12-Indicators Front & Side Left Pin 1 & Pin A-Black/White-0.75
13-Cruise Control Pin A-Black/Red-0.75
14-Cruise Control Pin G-Black/Yellow-0.5
15-Cruise Control Pin H-Brown/White-0.5
16-Power Sounder Pin 3 -Brown/Red-0.75
17-Cruise Control Pin C-Black/Brown-0.75
18-Power Sounder Pin 2 & Alarm Horn Pin B-Red-0.75
19-Indicators Front & Side Right Pin 1 & Pin A-Black/Green-0.75
20-Engine Oil Level-Brown/Green-0.75 (Grey 6 pin Engine Plug)
21-Parking Light Left Pin B-Grey/Black-0.75
22-Coolant Level-Brown/Blue-0.75
23-Engine-Black/Brown-0.35 (ECU Plug)
24-Washer Fluid Level-Brown/Yellow-0.5
25-Pin 5 Washer Relay Headlamp-Grey/Green-0.75
26-Pin 4 Washer Relay Headlamp-Black/Red-0.75
27-Not used
28-ABS Module Plug Pin 9-Blue-0.5 (ABS Cable)
29-ABS Module Plug Pin 2-Blue/Red-0.5 (ABS Cable)
30-ABS Module Plug Pin 28-Brown/Green-0.35
31-ABS Module Plug Pin 31-Black/Red-0.75
32-Parking Light Right Pin B-Grey/Red-0.75
33-ABS Diagnostic Link Brown/White-0.5
34-Brake Fluid-Brown/White-0.75
35-ABS Module Plug Pin 8-Brown-0.5 (ABS Cable)
36-ABS Module Plug Pin 1-Brown/Red-0.5 (ABS Cable)
37-Not used
38-ABS Module Plug Pin 14-Black/Green-0.75
39-Outside Temp Pin B Blue-0.35
40-Not used
41-Outside Temp Pin A-Blue/White-0.35
42-Not used
43-Not used
44-Not used
45-Not used
46-Engine-Brown/White-0.75 (ECU Plug)
47-Not used
48-Windscreen Washer Pump Pin 2-Black/Grey-0.75
49-Not used
50-Not used
51-Not used
52-Not used
53-Cruise Control Pin D-Grey- 0.5
54-Not used
55-Alarm Horn Pin A-Brown/Red-0.75
56-Pad Sensor Front Left Pin 2-Yellow/Red-0.5
57-Windscreen Washer Pump Pin 1-Black/Red-0.75
58-Headlamp Levellers Both Sides Pin 2-Brown/Yellow-0.75
59-Engine-Red-1
60-Not used
61-Steering Pin A-Blue/White-0.5
62-ABS Module Plug Pin 25-Blue/Red-0.5
63-Engine + Traction Control-Green-0.5 (ECU Plug)
64-Engine Diagnostic-Brown/Yellow-0.5
65-Not used
66-Cruise Control Pin F-Black-0.75
67-Not used
68-Not used
69-Not used
70-Not used
71-Not used
72-Not used
73-Windscreen Wiper Motor Pin C-Green-1.5
74-Windscreen Wiper Motor Pin E-White-1.5
75-Windscreen Wiper Motor Pin A-Yellow-1.5
76-Windscreen Wiper Motor Pin D-Black/Violet-1.5
77-Reversing Lamps/Speed Signal-Black-0.75 (Grey 6 pin Engine Plug)
78-Horns Both Pin 1 Red/Brown-1.5
79-Low Beam Pin 1 Left & Levelling Both Pin 3-Yellow 1.5/0.75
80-Low Beam Pin 1 Right-Yellow-1.5
81-High Beam Right Pin 1-White-1.5
82-High Beam Left Pin 1-White-1.5
83-Pin 8 Washer Relay Headlamp-Red-2.5
84-Not used
85-Not used
86-Not used
87-Power Sounder Pin 1 -Black-0.75
88-Not used
89-Not used
90-Not used
91-Engine-Red/Blue-1.5 (Grey 6 pin Engine Plug via purple relay)
92-Not used
93-Fog Lamps both Pin 2-Black-1.5
94-ABS Module Plug Pin 19-Brown-2.5
95-Brown Cylinder Connector Pin 8-Black/Red-2.5
96-Engine-Black-2.5 (Grey 6 pin Engine Plug)
97-Not used
98-Fuse 3 60 Amp-Black/Yellow-6
99-Fuse 2 60 Amp-Black/Red-6
100-Fuse 1 60 Amp-Black-6

Note that these pin-outs are for a 1998-99 Astra SRI 2.0 16v with an X20XEV block running ABS, Traction Control & Cruise Control. This is a model without Aircon, Heated Seats, Electric Mirrors, Electric Sunroof or an Engine Cooling module. I do not have the headlamp washers fitted either although I do have the wiring for it.
 

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You're lucky there, there's a whole host of wiring for the coolant control module. Mine's got one (due to air con I suppose) and it's a bit of nightmare if you need to tangle with it.
The only thing I'm not sure of in post 30 is the coolant level plug, but then mine hasn't got a check control fitted.
Mine also didn't have electric mirrors, but I've fitted them as the wiring was there.

Out of interest, my car was wired for cruise control INSIDE the car, near the indicator stalk and pedals, but could find no trace in the engine bay, so wired it myself from scratch.
Do you think it only goes to one side of the huge bulkhead connector? If you wanted cruise, now would be the ideal time to wire for it!

Finally, is there a battery in the power sounder itself? Is this what caused the fire? I might take mine apart and replace to be safe...
 

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Repairing ABS Wires.

It is not recommended to repair ABS wires because of what they do but it is possible with some care. ABS wires are technically known as CAN bus - Controller Area Network - or in other words automotive LAN.
Incorrect - ABS wires are not CANBUS - they are just signal wires which carry a small analog signal from the ABS sensor.
 

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Oh and your ABS wire repair should be fine - the wire for all intents and purposes is just normal cable. What I would recommend if you are shielding it would be to put a bit of extra PVC tape around the heatshrunk (or is it heatshrinked ?) joints before putting the shield over the top - that way if the joints do rub through they have a bit more insulation to go through before they get to the shielding.

The wires are twisted to help minimise interference - twisting the cables tends to help cancel out interference on differential signals.
 
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