DIY car respray advice

[Lugy]

When the time comes (hopefully not too far off!) I'm wanting to respray my car, I reckon I've got the patience to do it myself but I'll need a few pointers I'd imagine.
My thinking so far is grind back/repair and rusty areas, apply Kurust/the other epic stuff I keep hearing about direct to any bare metal.
Get hold of a good DA sander and sand back the paint using 180 grit pads.
Apply primer, dry and rub back with finer pads than before. Repeat process again.
Make sure everything is spotless and apply paint.
Make sure everything is spotless and apply lacquer.

Do I want to flatten the paint before lacquer with 1500 wet and dry or just do it after the lacquer? I'll be wanting to take the doors/bonnet/boot off and do them separately then reattach after the jobs done.

Colourwise it will be going from flat blue to metallic blue. I want to do the engine bay and doorshuts but I'm not fussed over bits that won't be seen (under the carpets/behind dash/boot floor).
I accept that I might not get it as good as a pro but I want to do it to the best of my ability, granted probably not great!
I'm going to get hold of a good compressor and borrow a nice shiny DeVilbiss spray gun plus build a temporary spray booth to keep the **** out.

Anything else I should know? Not doing right? Etc?

[paddy>gsi/turbo]

lugy a good 2k primer is lechler ti use on filler repairs really good product.


Do I want to flatten the paint before lacquer with 1500 wet and dry or just do it after the lacquer? I'll be wanting to take the doors/bonnet/boot off and do them separately then reattach after the jobs done.

sounds like your half clued up on bodywork. if the basecoat goes on clean just tack rag then laquer.any **** in base then 2000 grit then dust coat it.
dark metallic blue is a dirty colour will attract ****. needs clean enviroment.

[GaryVaux]

some good advice there (ive also used lechler stuff, though 1k upol stuff from dingbro is also very good for the money)

id only use 180 on any bits requiring filler. Once all the repairs are done, do the whole car with 320 and high build prime. (id only fully prime it if your changing the colour) Dust coat this with satin or matt black, wet sand it with 800 grit. (idea being the black dots highlight any low spots)

Once happy with that, pannel wipe, tack rag and paint. Lacquer once the paint has flashed off a wee bit. (personally i wouldnt flatten before lacquer as it makes metalics go patchy)

Leave the lacquer a few weeks then wet flat with 1500/2000 grit, machine polish it with G3, G10, a hand polish then wax

Tips - Dont do it in one go, you will be tempted to rush and accept mistakes. Set aside say a week for the prep, a weekend for masking and the primer, following week flatting it and masking again, then another weekend for the paint and lacquer.
A good gun makes an immense difference, a moisture trap for the compressor and a decent mask (as the lacquer contains iso-cyanides, yes air stream helmet is ideal, but for a one off job a mask will be ok, get 2 just incase)

eg: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3M-4277-Re...item41618b8afd

oh and go easy on the lacuer, its harder to spray/see and you will get tempted to coat it on and get runs

[Lugy]

Cheers, I'll try and get hold of some of that Lechler stuff. I have endless (nearly...) supplies of wet and dry and tack rags so I'll make sure I don't scrimp on them.

I'm going from this blue.... (ignore comedy ride height, it's lower now!)


To this....


Will this just be a case of giving the existing paint (that isn't needed any repairs) a good key?

[GaryVaux]

yep, if the paints fine a grey scotchbrite should be fine (no need to prime it really) especially when the old and new colours are so close.

[Dave Hay]

i wouldnt sand the base coat - make sure the primer is smooth as anything (i used 1,000 wet) and then 1500 wet on the lacquer to tidy it all up before machine finishing.

make sure you have a decent temperature to do it in to give the paint a chance to erm dry for want of a better word! - ideal if you have guns set up for just paint and just lacquer to save faffing about.

if your doing it in your own garage i bought a small bathroom fan with a plug on it to suck the ****e out through a vent and leave a couple buckets of water nearby to try and attract some dust.

just take your time and make sure you dont over do the lacquer like gary says

the rust will appear back if you do it with k rust or whatever ****e its called.....