Engine Bay Preperation

[Liam1805]

Hey guys im going to have my engine bay sprayed as soon as it is prepped, so looking for some advice etc. I have removed gear selector gaiter along with steering rack to gain more access, sanded most of the paintwork down for a key, also there is a lot of rust in the bay, so i have sanded and wire brushed it and treated it with hammerite rust treatment (beige paint) but i thought it was meant to soak into the rust, but its just there as paint. Anyway is this ok now to filler over, also will it be fine filler i need or the usual body filler ??

Any advice will be handy, cheers

[mikesmith181]

depends how deep the hole is your filling buddy, if its just pin pricks go for fine, if its deep normal then fine over the top.then you'd have to prime over that.

[Gaz86]

use the white stuff from hammerite, it goes purple when in contact with rust and changes the structure, get rid of as much rust as you can first though, I wouldn't use body filler on ANY rust though TBH, as soon as it starts coming back it'll crack the whole area, always deal with the rust and grey stripe it.

[Liam1805]

Ok thanks guys, they are pretty deep but not huge.

Gaz what would you suggest to do then mate, what ways are there around it, what can I do apart from filler over the rust. Is this beige hammerite treatment any good though mate, don't fancy buying more if mines upto the job.

[Gaz86]

I just checked on what I use and it's Kurust from hammerite, the only other I've heard of is the green stuff that eats the rust but that take forever, I'd invest in some heavy wire wheel heads for your power drill or if it's really bad mounted wire wheels for your grinder, that will get you as near to rustless as you can get and then rust treat the area before priming and painting.

[Liam1805]

I just checked on what I use and it's Kurust from hammerite, the only other I've heard of is the green stuff that eats the rust but that take forever, I'd invest in some heavy wire wheel heads for your power drill or if it's really bad mounted wire wheels for your grinder, that will get you as near to rustless as you can get and then rust treat the area before priming and painting.

The green stuff is the gel yeh mate. Yehh i have loads of wire wheels here for my drill so ill crack on with cleaning that up later. Where i have treated the rust it all looks good and clean now but it requires some fillering on parts, will it be ok to filler on top of the rust treatment mate.

Cheers Liam

[Jack]

the only other I've heard of is the green stuff that eats the rust but that take forever

Genolite? It's ****ing awesome stuff. Blob a bit on, give it a couple of minutes and wipe it off with a rag. It's kickass.

[Gaz86]

should be ok filling over the treated areas, just treat it as you normally would, clean dry etc...
jack No not genolite, it's the hammerite gel stuff, it's ok but you're there for hours re-applying.

[Liam1805]

Here is a picture of the treatment im using from hammerite, Is this ok now to be fillered over with to smooth it out. I want to make 100% so i dont mess things up.

[Gaz86]

can't comment on how good it will inhibit the rust returning but that's pretty much ready yeah, I'd give it a scrub with 40 grit before filling it (mostly an old habit from bodyshop days)

looks like you've got a lot more wire wheeling to go in that chassis leg.

[Liam1805]

can't comment on how good it will inhibit the rust returning but that's pretty much ready yeah, I'd give it a scrub with 40 grit before filling it (mostly an old habit from bodyshop days)

looks like you've got a lot more wire wheeling to go in that chassis leg.

No worries thanks for the heads up, i shall get some tomorrow. I have finished wiring this chassis leg, have the other leg to do next, its not half as bad as this side though. So time consuming its unreal haa. Anyways thanks gaz for your help, much appreciated mate.

Liam

[Gaz86]

what have you put through that leg? I'm doing the passenger leg on mine but I'm sure nothing runs down the drivers side I've fed through the bonnet release but that's all I can find on that side.

[envoy cdx]

I'd be tempted to use chemical metal rather than body filler though.
Might be a bitch to sand / file back but less likely to crack afterwards.

[Liam1805]

what have you put through that leg? I'm doing the passenger leg on mine but I'm sure nothing runs down the drivers side I've fed through the bonnet release but that's all I can find on that side.

What do you mean put through the leg mate, do you mean when i mentioned wiring, i thought it might confused you, i meant wire wheeling it (wrote wiring for short) mate.

I just picked up some grit 40 paper, should i be rubbing hard on all the treatment or just the indented area which needs fillering mate.

[Gaz86]

yeah treat the treatment as a filler and attack it as such, aswell as indents for a good key.

yeah I thought you mean wiring loom in the leg lol.

[Liam1805]

yeah treat the treatment as a filler and attack it as such, aswell as indents for a good key.

yeah I thought you mean wiring loom in the leg lol.

Thought as much my badd mate. Well I made a start on the passenger side, its in the most awkward parts aii. Also started fillering over the driver side areas while I treated other side, hopefully tomorrow I can get more filleing done and start sanding that back. Slowly getting there I just want it done right.

Will I do the same sort of process when I come to do my outer sill mate as I have an area of surface rust under the door area.

Liam

[Liam1805]

Any advice on getting the filler into tight gaps and then getting there to sand it. Some rust in awkward places grrr

[Gaz86]

I think you'd be best off using some por 15 stuff that will stop the rust in it's tracks and stop it coming back through, I've used it myself and it's horrible stuff but does the job just don't get it on your hands.

this really is hardcore stuff like I say, if you use it be bloody carefull where you get it.

Silver POR 15 Rust Prevention Paint (473ml)

[Benn]

Use fibre glass first to fill the gaps, then filler over the top. Push it hard in to the gaps. Use 80 and 180 to sand it down, try not to fill where you cant sand.

[Liam1805]

Use fibre glass first to fill the gaps, then filler over the top. Push it hard in to the gaps. Use 80 and 180 to sand it down, try not to fill where you cant sand.

Ahh I've started fillering now lol. What am I going to do though about the parts I can't get too, mainly around both the chassis mounts is the bits I can't get too. I can't be leaving them rusty haa

[Benn]

Grind the rust out and the treat. A high build primer will cover alot of rust marks once flatted off.

[Liam1805]

Well had an hour on the bay earlier began sanding down some of the filler. Will 180 grit be ok to key up the remaining paint in the bay. Here is a picture of what i been doing today, is that ok now to be primered, also isit just them areas need primer or do i need to primer the whole bay. Advice will be great guys, trying to get it done right.

[Liam1805]

Guys when im putting the rust treatment on, is there any need to put filler on if theres no indentations etc. As it is now im fillering over every part that i have treated and when sanded back half of them are smoothing out. So if it is smooth after i have sanded the treatment back is it then ok to just primer it ready for paint ??

Let me know asap so i can crack on.
Cheers.

[Benn]

Is it flat? Cant see the from pics really. Anything you've sanded with 80/180 will need primering. If your using a high build primer then no you can paint that over the old rust marks and it should cover them.

[Liam1805]

Is it flat? Cant see the from pics really. Anything you've sanded with 80/180 will need primering. If your using a high build primer then no you can paint that over the old rust marks and it should cover them.

Yeh in the last picture the filler is now flat mate, them area's needed filler as you could notice the indentation badly. Most of the other areas that i have treated and sanded back are flat without filler, was just wondering if i needed to fill over them all or if it will be ok to just primer. I have used 180 to sand and will be using a high build primer (would you use white or grey mate) i have 2k white primer for a gun not sure if that is high build or not though. If i used high build primer from a can and had it painted with a gun will i get same finish mate.

Sorry for questions i just want to get it done right, will help me in the future also then.
Cheers