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calibra DTM

13K views 169 replies 30 participants last post by  scooby-KILLER 
#1 ·
picked this up on saturday on the whole its all good so far :lmao: no real plan for it other than sort out the body work/paint and general bits and bobs then enjoy it

couple of pictures not the greatest but they will do for now.





thats it picture wise for now
 
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#31 ·
in all honesty i dont think it is have seen far worse saved. mot and tax out in april.

No,unless I bought a welder or a huge vat of fibreglass,now sold to a mate for cheap to get rid
ah ok. so you dont think highly of this particular seller?
 
#33 ·
i think that is exactly what i am going to do Lugy & re the LET a young lad from inverness collected it the other week so sadly no turbo'd DTM YET. i do have a full xe/f20 sitting but the x20xev seems good and not to shabby to be fare mate so will probably leave it be until i get ANOTHER c20let or it blows up
 
#37 ·
yeah he did seem a decent enough chap in all fairness granted i dont no him but from our meeting/business he seemed sound enough. aye vauxhalls biggest enemy is time/weather and owners lol. im hoping that the cally isnt to bad mate but i am not holding my breath at all
 
#42 ·
Yeah I think it's to good to scrap but I haven't really had a chance to give it a proper going over. Haven't seen the floor properly and haven't had bumpers/skirts of so go's knows what's lurking beneath but I do hope its not all bad as I like it mate and so far its been great with regards to it running so fingers crossed
 
#43 ·
:lmao::lmao: thats not rust thats is a mere build up of 20 years rain t cut it out if ya want rust try the shyte i work on :lmao::lmao: to be honest a good lad with a welder small sheet of 1mm steel and £50 / £60 would have it fixed then just the paint seems a shame to kill it when it is so complete and genuin :thumb: good luck witth it
 
#49 ·
What makes a DTM different from a normal cally? if just cosmetics, and suspension components, and few badges here and there, so why not get a cheap latest galvanised shell with no rust and transfer all the key parts from the DTM to an S reg cally that you could proabably pick one up for aroyund 500 to 800 quid, and paint it white, and transfer all the DTM things over. No need to mess aboit with welding and treating rust ect, end of the day a cally is a cally weather DTM or a normal. Ok pardon me, i don't really know that much about DTM, Ben would know a lot as he built one and then destroyed it as well, so he knows inside out!
 
#53 ·
i also forgot to add i changed this hose as soon as i got home as it was like playdoh and felt like i could squeeze it into bits with a little pressure

and the replacement granted its not the "proper hose" for it but it does what i need it to.


thanks for looking
 
#55 ·
cheers mate. it was a bit of a kick in the balls slating me for not finishing the gsi and others but i have very little time on my hands and to fix the gsi i had to do a 150 mile round trip and fuel the vxr so most of my spare cash went into fuel more than parts/upgrades and done my best and tbh i kinda just wanted shot of it in a way. now i can work on the DTM at home so no fuel bill so to speak. hopefully me and the mrs will sell the flat this year and buy a house with a BIG garage & BIG garden/drive then i will never need to leave the garage until she comes in lol
 
#57 ·
If I had the funds ATM you wouldn't need to decide I would be on my way for it!

Mine is black leather mate. I do need a rear wiper arm and a couple of plastic bits if you have them?.

Oh and since you have a couple of DTM's you have to fire up some pictures especially of the turbo! ;)

Please lol

Oh and cheers mate
 
#59 ·
ah not so good mate. my last one was pretty similar to what your describing but this one isnt so bad and so fas seems easy savable but havent had a good look at floor or under skirts so fingers crossed all is not to bad. even if it is i will hunt down the rot and make it **** off then **** off some more...

cheers
 
#61 ·
The plastic side skirts usually do a good job of protecting the sills as they completely cover them. If there are obvious rusty bits I'd check for less obvious rusty bits, in the boot, front footwells, rear chassis rails, etc.
 
#63 ·
boot seemed ok mate a little wet in one corner but no real rust or staining but didnt take al carpet/plastics out. in the wheel arches/foot wells (outside/behind the brakes if you get me?) there has been repairs and have not yet checked rear rails but will make a point of that mate cheers
 
#62 ·
i think mine has has a few repairs and i am hoping they are half decent as dont want this like a patch work quilt but if it keeps it together then its doing its job.

i can not seem to load up the workshop manual for some reason any ideas? or is it just a crock of shit?
 
#64 ·
I had mine resprayed about a year ago and the only place I found rust was the boot, fooking sunroof drains come loose and flood the bugger:


An easy fix though, if that's all you've got after 20 years you're laughing:
 
#65 ·
how can i check the drains on it mate?. i think mine has has a shunt up the arse or its had a rot repair at some point al get a picture the morrow and let you see so you can give me your opinion. i need to clean out or cut the bottom of the elephants trunk of as its packed lol
 
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