Tigra c20xe to turbo on Megasquirt wip - lots of pics!

[Gaz86]

run it on ethanol

[djivesp]

Originally Posted by LongLiveTheNova

Thats give me a few ideas for the box on my JAW controller.
Ive got it built up, just nothing to put it in


Nice work btw, but 10.5Cr is pretty high.

Haha, i was stuck for ideas too till i saw the pile of old computer bits in the garage, it was a "lighbulb" moment


Thanks man, well its 10:1 but hopefully the late inlet valve closing should get rid of some charge! + i just got some let pistons off donvaux but that's for the spare block

I'm still awestruck when i think i've only paid like £90 all in for it, and its already working with megasquirt and everything !!

[djivesp]

Originally Posted by GBE86

run it on ethanol

I did actually give e85 a think but need big injectors, fuel pipes wont last etc..
+it's my daily driver ..

And the wideband wont read that rich

[djivesp]

Cheers don for the bits

Another piccie, i decided to put the battery back into the boot. It was under the scuttle panel originally, then i put it in the boot, but i used 8 gauge wire, which was too small. So then i put it back. And now i put it back in the boot, but with thick as **** jump lead cable . One cable was long enough to go all the way from the boot to the engine bay . There still is a small vdrop but it's hardly anything (well, the laptop doesn't like it, but more on that later).

[Steve!]

coolo

[djivesp]

ok, more stuff. This time going astray - i've posted up pics of my motorized screen install on digital-car.co.uk, so this is a copy&paste off those forums:


After purchasing a 7" touch screen display from a user on here (digital-car.co.uk), i started looking for ideas and though i'd share with you guys what i came up with so far!

So, after deciding to turbo my left-hooker, and getting megasquirt i had an awesome idea - wouldn't it be cool if i had all the virtual gauges in front of me and be able to map the car whenever & wherever?! Then obviously the added benefit of a front-end, mp3's, gps etc..

Anyway, started toying with the idea of a motorised screen as i did not want a screen on display (no pun intended) for little thieving ****s, and i like things you can hide away, it's neat !

So. First idea was - the display laying screen down in the recess on top of the dash, where a MFD display unit sits on corsas/tigras. It would be hinged near the back/bottom of the screen. A few problems became apparent with this design after i made a quick mock-up of the linkage mechanism on 3ds Max:

the main problem was, that i would have needed a worm wheel to stop the screen from moving back as i touched it to navigate. The 2nd problem was that i wanted the screen to be closer to the driuver&passenger, and for this to work, the pivot point would have had to be more middle-ish in the screen, which meant that i may not ever see the bottom of the screen when it folded out!.. also i didn't like the amount of moving parts, and possibility of 'wobble' of the linkages weren't tight enough.

Another idea was to have the screen push out endways and fold up, like on your conventional single-din devices. The complexity of this put me off

Last was an idea of the screen just rising out of the dash good plain old simple. I settled for this, however it would have been nice to have some kind of 'tilt' control, but you can't have everything huh :/..

Then i started taking apart everything i could find, to source the moving parts from. A couple of CD drives were killed, and a slot-loading head unit met it's maker when i tried to salvage the gears. Basically all got junked because none of those gear sets were tough enough to lift the screen, also didn't offer a 'ratchet' system, you could move the screen up or down with your hand!..

some mock-ups:



then decided i need something more substantial, so ordered this off ebay:



started 'modding' it. left only 1 cable, as i thought that gravity could do it's thing for the 'down' movement.


Right. Firstly, i cut some plastic, glued and screwed it to the original plastic 'slider' that the window would sit in. This was my shelf for the screen.


However. This was waay too flimsy, and the side to side play that the screen had, due to the wear on the plastic 'slider', was too much and i couldn't make myself ignore it ..
So, some fabrication was needed.


This, when glued and screwed in, was still not enough. Felt a bit too 'bodged' for my liking. So some proper fabrication was needed!!..

then, after getting some ideas for space and taking some measurements:

Some more 'proper' fabrication was needed.

Then the rail was mounted to the underside of the vent frame.

As for the windscreen de-myster ventage - it was getting in the way of the screen:

and the crushing didnt feel proper enough. So, some measuring and cutting.

Above - was all that was needed to clear the screen and mechanism. BUT, annoyingly, it was going to be impossible to put the ducting back in place in 1 piece, it was too wide, and the flex needed to wangle it into place would have killed the fibreglass 'patchwork'. So, some more proper fabrication genius was needed.

...

[djivesp]

When the glass fibre set, the flexible pipe was very, errm, flexible! The rest of the unnecessary plastic was cut away.

This was done to both sides, and they made their way back into the dash succesfully!
here is another shot of the rail:


The following is a mock up of how everything will be inside the dash with the screen nestled up to sleep.


Next, some little microswitches waving hello and reporting for duty.


This is a mock virtual circuit that i made to make sure that a DPDT switch can work to control the window motor up/down, via microswitches and that no further circuitry will be needed:


Here is the bottom microswitch installed (after lots and lots of careful measuring). It's glued to a little steel arm, which wraps itself round the rail and is bolted to it.



aaand the top one. You can hopefully see how it all works - the little bend on the bottom of the sliding unit flicks the arm of the switch when it gets to the top!.. Also, you can see that i added the bottom cable again - this change came about after seeing how tough it was to move the assembly up&down (even when greased up), no way could gravity have done it all by itself!

Made up some little brackets which will give 'guidance' for the screen, and stabilize it when it's at the top. i HATE a wobbly screen!

The keen ones amongst you will notice that the surface is all keyed! I later put black cloth over all the parts of contact

with the case of the screen, but it doesn't like it! It seems too 'catchy' on the sides of the screen, making it wobble a bit as it's going up&down so replaced the cloth with electrical tape, seems much slipperyer - and this ment i could make the brackets hug the screen 'tighter', nice!!

annnd here it is all wired up and tested, ready for installation, it's not going to be easy !!

aaaand it was a nightmare

there is so little space there, especially since the ducting was in place, i'm surprised it all fitted!
Well, not yet fitted as such - this is how it all looks right now !!


Oh, one thing i haven't mentioned - is how i powered it !!..
running it directly off 12 volts meant that the thing just shot up in fierce bat out of hell style. Not nice. So i had some 6V voltage regulators lying around, which were perfect !! wired them up in parallel, mounted them to a HUGE heatsink (just for good measure), and it's superb!! motor doesn't make much sound, and the action is nice and smooth !!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-tNhKz1fjqc

Here we go, i uploaded a video to show you lot how it's working so far!!
I'm very pleased with it tbh. It cost me, err, £12 for the glass fibre kit, £5 for the motor/rail (!), and a favour for the microswitches !! oh, and i have 59 spare DPDT switches, £1 a pop if anyone wants one

[donvaux]

genius lthinking there mate this is making a very interesting read

[djivesp]

Since then, it looks like the voltage regulators are slowly dying. It works every, 5th click of the switch or so, it has a mind of it's own!! So another something to sort.

Oh, and a little minor thing, the VGA input has gone GREEN!! WTF !! the s-video in is perfect, but the VGA is green. Tried 2 laptops, 2 VGA extension cables, so not looking good. I REALLY cant be arsed to rip the whole thing apart again .. It happened randomly, too, no cable wiggling helps. Thinking it's the part of the VGA cable that goes to the screen itself, before the extension.

[djivesp]

hehe, thanks man. Just watched that vid again, **** me i can talk bs

[Steve!]

very good

[rc]

loving a thread with lots of pics!

[djivesp]

ok, going back in time again, i'll document briefly the EHPS system installation from the MR2.

After being a lucky chappy and picking up the whole power steering lot (pump, ecu's, relay, pipes) for about £40, i set about installing it. To be honest, it's fiddly, and will probably not apply to any other car out there. Also because my tig is lhd so things are in different places lol, i like to think it's "special". "special needs"

Anyway,
The pump with massive **** off connector blocks on the power cables


The relay: (LOL i saw one of these being sold on IMOC mr2 forums for like £100 wtf are they mental )




The reservoir, chopping the unnecessary bits:


Chop the end of pipe that connects to the rack's high pressure 'IN'


some very bad weldage



Some more very bad weldage later:


And the sprayed and ground down end result:


All the pipes were 'sleeved' so the welds don't bear much pressure, so no danger there. In fact this was done 2 years ago and ive not had a single drip

Then cut a bit of steel plate out for the switch panel, and 'modified' the fag tray ( i wanted to be able to close it with the switches in)



A bit of fabric spray from the local car-boot sale (was a random buy i never thought i'd need )


Annnd upholstered using the felt from the under-bonnet fire-blanket thing


(since then i added a push-switch for the laptop power-on, more on that later)

Annd all in and lookin goood. Now you see it!



Now you dont:



..

And the pump in the bay


And the reservoir plumbed in.


That's how things were ^^

Since then, i used the original rubber mountings that dampened the vibrations from the pump (as i made a solid bracket that bolted to the chassis leg - it was annoyingly loud)

i had more protos of making the new mount, but can only find this one now


And it's dampened it down a treat !! Still not as quiet as it could be, but i don't want the bushes to flex any more, it'll destroy itself over bumps !!

Over for now

[eggman]

some post i love it when people just go for mad s**t like this. Realy trick love it

[djivesp]

cheers guys, all the feedback is definately appreciated.

Time for some more bad welding
Well, basically i bought this ****ty arc welder for £20 from this mad old boy in the coontry soide somewhere in the depths of norfolk, and figured if i can weld ARC half decently, then when i get a mig welder i should be pretty good .

So anyway, i had a strut brace left over from an old celica my dad had once and got scrapped. I know £35 for a brace isn't alot of cash but hey it's here and it's good practice. So anyway, started with this:


It bolts to the firewall on the celly, so that section will need strengthening!

Anyway, chop chop



Then bent it back abit, offering it up in the engine bay:



Then welded some steel plates to get the strength back at the cuts:


Here's how it was looking! (omg, my xe in the bay, all still working at that point )



Then got a bit of bar, viced the ends:



BAM, welds getting better




aand how it looked in the end, in primer


Will do me till i get a proper one!!
Went out for a ragging session, i swear it made a difference!! Though could have just been a placebo after all the work ..

Anyways. After putting it on and off on and off, i stripped the thread on one of the 2 bolts on the left hand side turret not good.

So an excuse to get some cheap coilies soon

[turbo gav]

Should do the trick

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/C20XE-C20LET-V...d=p3286.c0.m14

cheap too.

think you will get away with abit more boost if you can keep the charge temps down and fit a nice interwarmer, only the midrange where you will have to be more sensible with boost. looks great for the money spent good luck.

[djivesp]

Excellent !! I thought they were a little more than that !! Still seems abit though considering i only need to change it a couple of degrees we'll see how it goes i'm getting excited now !!

[turbo gav]

Go ghetto then and elongate the camshaft locating pin holes in the pulleys PMSL

[djivesp]

haha, i actually did think about that but then slippage is an issue, and you need to undo the main bolt every time you want to adjust it . I wouldn't be able to sleep at night hmmm.. Or i could just ground off the pins completely

[rob_lee_1]

Very cool matey!

[Gaz86]

ive a spare iconperformance vernier you can have for £60 plus postage, i bought a pair as it works out cheaper.

[djivesp]

ok, more piccies for all you piccie lovers

My lappy needed something to sit 'in' and stay put, and not die a shock induced death. So I made it a 'cradle'

Side of a PC case (recycling at it's best )


Some artwork


Sizing it up:



Got my sharpie out but beckam never came...










Some padding for the bottom:



ill keep my dayjob


top:


it fits !!


Just about enough space for the cables:


And it's in place, slides nicely under the seat nice and anchored, it's a tight fit under there !!


The cables need a major tidy up, but havent worked out how to avoid interference yet, its absolutely atrocious at the mo ..

Then made a similar thing for my portable HDD, as i got a lot of musics and i drive for 4 hours at a time most the time








Then did a bit of sowing. Suitable car for a person who can sow really jokes on me





Anyway, works proper good and everything !! not had a single bump-induced skippage or failure yet, its sweeet!

[djivesp]

Originally Posted by GBE86

ive a spare iconperformance vernier you can have for £60 plus postage, i bought a pair as it works out cheaper.

Cheers for the offer bud, but maybe when i get paid ill think about it !! Needing to get the thing running first, no matter how badly yet

[djivesp]

have been working on this for a while now, i doubt it will ever get finished tbh





lenths are pulse tuned (on paper at least) for better VE at 4k ish, then again near 6k ish, but this was for N/A, so don't know whether it would benefit with forced induction..

that's it for tonight i reckon, bike&train to work tomorrow

[eggman]

u can make adjustable timing pullys by simply rotating the pully 180 degrees (178 or 182) makeing a new top mark and drilling a new hole!!!!!!

does that make sence?