will get some when i'm next up there(probably tuesday) and put them up in here if robert doesnt mindOriginally Posted by azzmi
will get some when i'm next up there(probably tuesday) and put them up in here if robert doesnt mindOriginally Posted by azzmi
Originally Posted by Turbostevo
Lee303. **** off. Your boring me now.
SHoNkyOpELs.de
Not at all mate
If I ain't earning it - I'm spending it!!
Originally Posted by Turbostevo
Lee303. **** off. Your boring me now.
SHoNkyOpELs.de
I am a happy and speedy tortoise
Hello Mates,
I have just overhauled my gearbox (Quaife six speed dogged, F13). Where can I buy some gears and drive discs in England? Do Quaife supply them? (I couldn't see anything about that in their website). Actually, I am not sure if dogs are over worn or usable for a while more. I can send the pictures of the dogs if you kindly interest.
Best Regards,
Azmi
I am a happy and speedy tortoise
quaife do sell the parts needed, they should have the part numbers stamped on them too, always best to ring them though, how worn are the dog teeth?
Originally Posted by Turbostevo
Lee303. **** off. Your boring me now.
SHoNkyOpELs.de
Yeah, Quiafe sell direct - need to ring them. They are not the best though! Really slow i found.
Also itll be worth getting the big nut as you nearly destroy it when taking it off.
i had to change my 1st 2nd and dog selector on mine recently (F20), came to about £500!!
This is a damaged one to compare with yours the teeth are fine - just the selector bit is damaged. The edges shouldn't be rounded off like that. This will eventually cause it to jump out of gear.
rob
If I ain't earning it - I'm spending it!!
Thanks,
I made my list with part numbers for 1,2,3,4 gears, related selector discs and LH threaded locknut. In contrast of jumping out of a gear (I did so many lift-offs on the extremely bumpy road even a single time it didn't jumped out.), my problem is engaging a gear especially a quick gearing down is needed. My clutch is disengaging well, but to engage a gear, sometimes, I have to apply an excessive force to the gear selector stick or "tune the engines RPM". Some pictures of the gears,
Regards,
Azmi
Last edited by azzmi; 11-02-2009 at 09:51.
I am a happy and speedy tortoise
those symptoms just sound like a normal dog box to me tbh, you must match the revs well to get the gear to engage, and even to allow the old gear to be released
anyway here you go azzmi, the gearbox reverse inhibitor
like i said, its a sprung loaded device that picks up on the reverse gear shaft through the reverse switch hole, looks like this when you have pulled the bowden cable back
which you would do with a bike lever or similar attached to the gear levers shaft, fits here
when the cable is loose it presses into t ashoudler on the reverse shaft that stops it moving, so you cant get reverse whatever you do![]()
Originally Posted by Turbostevo
Lee303. **** off. Your boring me now.
SHoNkyOpELs.de
Thank you Lee,
Actually there was one more question on my mind that, do I make something wrong? Of course I prefered to keep it there. I hope you are right about it comes from nature of my gearbox. But I still would like to know your comments about the dogs worn.
Reverse gear inhibitor is great, thank you. As soon as I make mine I will let you know.
best wishes,
Azmi
I am a happy and speedy tortoise
its a bit hard to say from the photos, as you need to see the gear faces with the recesses too, but they look 'used' rather than badly worn to me, do you clutch on the up shifts?
no worries on the inhibitor, you can see the shoulder on the reverse gear shaft that it locates to in the first of your photos
Originally Posted by Turbostevo
Lee303. **** off. Your boring me now.
SHoNkyOpELs.de
I always use clutch both up and downshifts, as I mentioned, this is my first dogbox I have only made 30 stage miles on it. I used to drive standard synchromesh gearbox for many years and maybe in this while I gained some bad habbits for a dogbox.
Even if I change all the gears and everything, after the first start from this point they will start to be worn out again. I mean, I like to use any expensive part as long as possible. So that makes me curious and asking everything that I found doubtful. (I believe that is the spirit of the forum).
I checked the shoulder, thanks again Lee,
Azmi
I am a happy and speedy tortoise
absolutely!
as for the box, i think you just need to get used to matching the revs, synchros make it all so easy!lmao
Originally Posted by Turbostevo
Lee303. **** off. Your boring me now.
SHoNkyOpELs.de
This advice is worth to 1000 £(remember, 1,2,3,4 drive discs etc.)
I am a happy and speedy tortoise
lmao![]()
Originally Posted by Turbostevo
Lee303. **** off. Your boring me now.
SHoNkyOpELs.de
Azmi,
Just bought the box, so decieded to check it before i fitted it as it was second hand. Was told that i would be doing this repair every 2-3 events
I too will be using the clutch to shift gears. Looking on those pictures they are ready as the edges of the 'sticky outy' bits are rounded off.
how do you change gear? As you have to be very fierce!
Also what sort of power are you running? Maybe upgrade to a F15 or even F20?
Thanks
rob
If I ain't earning it - I'm spending it!!
Hello Rob,
Since I live in Turkey it is a bit hard to import a new (even if it is used) gearbox. I think both F13 and F15 use the same gearkit.
In my opinion F20 is ideal to handle the modified engine power. My current engine has throttle bodies, MBE 967 management, double valve springs, titanium caps, 284 in 280 ex cams with vernier pulleys WITH STANDARD pistons. I believe it makes about 140-150 BHP.
I am planning to order omega pistons from SBD by the end of the February. (My wifes cousin will bring them with her.) I also have 290-300 degrees kent cams but I am trying to take it a little easy. I Need to learn a decent driving style for this sort of car first.
By the way do you ever hear that the cams that I am currently using. (KCBJ 24 Ex 280 Deg, KCBJ 23 In 284 Deg from BJ motorsports I think)
A friend of mine said once "show no mercy to this gearstick" Sometimes I feel like the faster gearchange the less shock in gearbox.
waiting for new photos and news from you,
best wishes,
Azmi
Last edited by azzmi; 12-02-2009 at 11:54.
I am a happy and speedy tortoise
I looked at dogbox but to much maintenance for me, was also told to be very aggressive with the box and pretty much ram it into gear as slower changes incurred more wear on the dogs.
Just to add why does anyoe use the clutch?? once your off the strat line ram it in thats the whole point of a dogbox isnt it?
at least can we use the clutch while gearing downlmao?
Last edited by azzmi; 11-02-2009 at 20:19.
I am a happy and speedy tortoise
Hi Azzmi,
when using the dog box you need to forget the synchros. As you normally give time a bit for the gear to be selected (syncro ring is adusting the speed) with dog box you need to be very precise and determined. The gear should be selected with one "clock noise" only. Do not let it rattle at all when shifting as the connecting teeths will be worn very quickly causing the gear to jump off. You can shift very rapidly with dog box even without clutch when you are left braking. Most important is the rhytmus to use the box and to get the connection correct.
Hi
do you know anyone that using a tractive sd906 seq gearbox?It is the only homologated for corsa and i haven't found anyone using it .Why?
If you look at the homologation papers there is a picture of "alternative use of rear coils"
or something like that,so i think that if it is homologated to use the coils as there are in the picture you could make the rear turrets so that they can be fitted.
If you know something else please inform because i am building a corsa and i have allready made them.![]()
hi mate,
great build qaulity of build is amazing, just wondering what bumpers you are using, i have wide tracked my xe corsa to 50mm each side and are looking for wider bumpers to suit my arches.
thanks
Adam