Corsa Maxi rally car

[robertkassner]

Cheers mate, ill see how it goes!

[t45_ste]

Noticed your after some sill stands. Im going to be making a set in the next couple of weeks. If you want a set making let me know. They will be fully tigged and load tested.

[donlop]

i got a efi euro 4 and a D2 dash for my car and i have a E 48 EXP Engine Management System and loom
forsale

[robertkassner]

Noticed your after some sill stands. Im going to be making a set in the next couple of weeks. If you want a set making let me know. They will be fully tigged and load tested.

How much mate?

Currently sat on tubes on axle stands!!

[t45_ste]

My time wont cost anything as i will be doing them at work and may be able to get the material through work also. I should know by the end of nexy week

[robertkassner]

Fantastic!!!!!

[Manxrooster]

Hope this works!!
Just a picture of the car im building. hope you like!!


Finally painted her Rob!!

[Manxrooster]

[/IMG]

Try again!!??

[robertkassner]

No picture mate.
Coming together now. Whats left to do?


Rob

[Manxrooster]

Hi Rob.
Picture should be up now....spot the newby on the forum!!
Shell finished. just got to put it all together. Making our own bottom arms which should be fun. Borrowed a mates jig to do them so see how they turn out. Also got to make a loom....hours of fun....not!!
Looking for a sequential box for it....holly grail springs to mind.
got 70% of bits needed, the last 30% are the dear bits, throttle bodies etc.
Should be ready in a couple of months.
I was going to order screen from Ricky Evans but price is not good. I notice its only the corsa b screen thats shot up in price...the other vauxhall screens only went up slightly!! Theres a guy in Northern Ireland selling screens, might email him for a price.

Hows yours getting on?
Not giving up yet i hope?

Tony

[robertkassner]

Not given up yet Tony,

started on the loom today, well....... started to strip the old one by trying work out whats what.

Where did you get the pods from - shell is looking spanking!!

If its any use - my tie rods and brackets are from Harry Hockly as they mounted in the same place on the Walden bottom arms. So if you can just make the bottom arms longer and use hockly stuff.....May make life easier.

rob

[robertkassner]

Oh and you'll have to let me know how you get on with the heated screen. I think £190+ is a bit of a joke!!

[Manxrooster]

Main pod is from Clarks (Walden...sorry guys!!) and the corners are from Magnum.

Going to do the whole lot bottom arm wise. If they work out ok then may do a few sets. They'll have rosejoints on inner end of the arm so fully adjustable rather than Hockly fixed.

Let you know when theyre done.

Good luck with loom.

Tony

[robertkassner]

Cheers,

good luck with the rest of the build

rob

[robertkassner]

Ok time for another update.

Being playing with the rear mount as i wasn't entirely happy with it. Got in spot on now and its given my enough clearance between box and bulkhead. Also gear linkage nearly works now and no clearance problems!!

Also made a start on the loom - armed with sidecuts, a haynes manual and fuse box cover. Ive been putting this job off for a while, but once i got stuck in its not so bad. Ive started to remove everything i don't need like heated rear screen etc....
Next is to replace and move the fuse box. Also im going to have a push start and front heated screen (if i can get one at a reasonable price!). Also need to make a lamp pod loom from scratch.







Also bought one of these, a electric cut off by ETA - no pull cables need as it uses an electrical switch instead.



Thats it for now.

Rob

[DaveB]

Cutting looms sucks There's probably a fair bit left in mine, but after removing 5kg worth I got fed up and called it a day lol

[robertkassner]

I'm mainly tidying it up. Removing all the huge block connectors, like the one in the picture.

So far ive gotten rid of the MFD, heater controls, side repeater wiring, rear heated screen and wiper, all the instrument wiring and even the brake fluid sensor.

Then got to move the fuse box and relays to the center of the dash. Might go for circuit breakers instead of fuses if i can get them at reasonable price.

Your right mate - its a right ball ache!!

[DaveB]

You've taken it past the MOT point, lol. I had to stay within that boundary

[robertkassner]

So should have i!!!!!!lmaolmao

The only problem i can see is the side repeaters....... but its a good job i know a Rally car friendly mot place.

[DaveB]

I need side repeaters, otherwise people won't see me at the side of the road waiting for the RAC lmao

[azzmi]

Hello Mates,

I would like to know that the measurements of your wheel alignments. I felt the back very tricky on the mud and trying to figure out why.
My alignment values are,

front camber: -1.3 degrees
front caster: 4 degrees
front toe: 0.5 millimeters out (total toe)

back camber: -2.5 degrees
back toe: 6 millimeters out ( I think that is the main cause that I can't hold the back as I want) But it is symmetrical (2.8mm left 3.2 mm right side)

I would like to know your comments on that.

cheers,

Azmi

[BKitcar]

a little competition from this weekend.

http://www.elk.itu.edu.tr/~azzmi/pics/ss.avi

By the way Astras driveshafts worked well. Thanks again marcel.

Great to hear that Azmi. Hope it will work the whole year for you. But we refresh the shafts over 3 rallies.
Gr. Marcel

[lee303]

Hello Mates,

I would like to know that the measurements of your wheel alignments. I felt the back very tricky on the mud and trying to figure out why.
My alignment values are,

front camber: -1.3 degrees
front caster: 4 degrees
front toe: 0.5 millimeters out (total toe)

back camber: -2.5 degrees
back toe: 6 millimeters out ( I think that is the main cause that I can't hold the back as I want) But it is symmetrical (2.8mm left 3.2 mm right side)

I would like to know your comments on that.

cheers,

Azmi

toe out on the rear will make it oversteer more, and make the car more 'snappy' so if you're finding you cant hold a slide then this maybe the issue, fairly easy to shim the hub off the rear beam to correct it

[corzuki]

Hello Mates,

I would like to know that the measurements of your wheel alignments. I felt the back very tricky on the mud and trying to figure out why.
My alignment values are,

front camber: -1.3 degrees
front caster: 4 degrees
front toe: 0.5 millimeters out (total toe)

back camber: -2.5 degrees
back toe: 6 millimeters out ( I think that is the main cause that I can't hold the back as I want) But it is symmetrical (2.8mm left 3.2 mm right side)

I would like to know your comments on that.

cheers,

Azmi

The back wheels should have 1mm to 2mm toe IN. That will make a massive difference to the handling of the car, much easier to drive.

[azzmi]

Thank you for your comments, I think I will correct it by shims.

Last three months were like a year to me. I worked days and nights to get the car together. Still have issues with power steering (I will change it to electric PS), A blown front suspension from last rally and a misterious electrical fault which leads seriously misfiring for 15-20 minutes after any deep watersplash. (car can't even moves, no power at all but idling. I think water in tps sensor to blame). I have some time to inspect them all to the next rally about 3 months away.

I made a slideshow with music to summarize this three months and like to share with you.

http://www.elk.itu.edu.tr/~azzmi/pics/toplama.avi

cheers.

Azmi