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21-01-2008, 01:43
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 #1 | | MIGWeb User
Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Toronto, Canada Drives: Turbo Optra/Lacetti
Posts: 43
|  Retuned with more power - T04B Turbo Lacetti/Optra
Hello, I'm from Canada and sort of new to these forums......haven't really posted, I mostly just browse. I thought I would share my project with everyone.
Its a 2004 Optra with custom turbo setup using a T4/T04B V-trim, putting around 200 whp for daily driving. It has 6 puck ceramic clutch with 1200 lbs PP and stock U20SED motor. Tuning is done with Greddy E-Manage Blue + additional injectors, also have installed a custom water/meth injection kit. Stock dyno is about 105 whp lol. I've been searching around on these forums for F28 gearboxes because mine (D20, same as F20 except hydraulic) keeps breaking. When ever I try to push more than 200 ft lbs of torque, the gearbox dies soon after. When I get my F28 installed I plan to run about 250whp on stock motor  Video
Here is a very recent dyno video: http://videos.streetfire.net/video/c...290114de8a.htm Pictures
First tuned dyno run 230whp / 246 ft lbs http://upload7.postimage.org/744186/photo_hosting.html
Manifold & piping being built http://upload4.postimage.org/cars/da...02693/car.html http://upload4.postimage.org/cars/da...02683/car.html http://upload4.postimage.org/cars/da...83929/car.html http://upload4.postimage.org/cars/da...02794/car.html http://upload6.postimage.org/442154/photo_hosting.html
New clutch vs stock http://upload7.postimage.org/438957/photo_hosting.html
BROKEN GEARBOX!!!!! http://upload8.postimage.org/289208/photo_hosting.html http://upload8.postimage.org/289215/photo_hosting.html http://upload8.postimage.org/289222/photo_hosting.html
T04B turbo installed http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=Pq46X2PA http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=Pq46Xzfr http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=aV59Nrqr http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=aV59NyUS
The whole story since day1 is here for anyone interested: http://www.daewootech.com/forum/view...er=asc&start=0
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Boosted 2004 Chevrolet Optra (Lacetti) - 2.0L 16v U20SED
T04B V-Trim, Greddy E-Manage Blue
F28 6spd gearbox & 6puck Kevlar clutch, custom water/meth injection | 
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22-01-2008, 02:52
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#3 | | MIGWeb User
Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Suffolk/Staffs Drives: 78 Kadett C
Posts: 2,254
| thats cool, it's definately not a car i've seen before  apart from the car that our TV show Top Gear use as a 'standard' car for benchmarking so to speak !
how have you combatted the high compression ?! are you still running stock pistons ? if so, thats very impressive ! i love the sound of the t4
+ do you have any way of monitoring knock ?
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Stripped Kadett C + 2l 8v turbo + welded diff = 8-) .. Selling c20xe turbo engine, F20, exhaust, corsa/tigra PAS gear, pm me! | |
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22-01-2008, 02:58
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#4 | | MIGWeb User
Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Suffolk/Staffs Drives: 78 Kadett C
Posts: 2,254
| that 'boostgate' (good name for it  ) sounds awesome !!! though the turbo spinning 100% doesnt sound very healthy  | |
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22-01-2008, 04:22
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#5 | | MIGWeb User
Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Toronto, Canada Drives: Turbo Optra/Lacetti
Posts: 43
| Quote:
Originally Posted by djivesp  thats cool, it's definately not a car i've seen before apart from the car that our TV show Top Gear use as a 'standard' car for benchmarking so to speak !
how have you combatted the high compression ?! are you still running stock pistons ? if so, thats very impressive ! i love the sound of the t4
+ do you have any way of monitoring knock ? |
hahah I love the show Top Gear and Fifth Gear. None of our TV networks here have the show, so I download all the episodes.
For the motor, the compression isn't that high......... its 9.5:1. All of the internals are 100% stock including all rod bolts, head studs, bearings etc. Original factory power rating of the motor is 119hp/126 lbs*ft at the crank. Now I have been running for over 1 year at approx 230hp at the crank and daily driven to work and school . Only problem is the stupid gearbox. The block is basically the same as C20LET, so thats why I want the F28 gearbox because I know it will bolt up. Another member on my other forum in the USA has already swapped the F28 into his car. So I know it can be done.
For knock, stock timing is so low, its really not an issue. I get 7-11 degrees total timing at full throttle from the stock ECU. My tuner is also very good at detecting and hearing knock when tuning, and he says it runs perfectly fine. But to be on the safe side we tune for 11.0 AFR and I have the water/meth injection to cool temperatures down further.
The sound from the dyno of the T04B is very pleasing to me as well haha I waste so much fuel driving around just to hear my turbo.  BTW the T04B setup is using the boostgate as well. | |
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22-01-2008, 04:33
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#6 | | MIGWeb User
Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Toronto, Canada Drives: Turbo Optra/Lacetti
Posts: 43
| Quote:
Originally Posted by djivesp that 'boostgate' (good name for it ) sounds awesome !!! though the turbo spinning 100% doesnt sound very healthy | My shop came up with the idea for me to try that, but I made that name lol. It does put a bit more stress on the turbo if you are doing lots of full throttle high speed pulls, but it controls boost very nicely and gives the fastest possible spool. Its not really that bad for the turbo though becuase I'm not even running that much boost. If you think of it as a closed system, there has to be more boost going into the motor to make the turbo spin faster. So by letting out alot of the boost, the turbo can't really spin that much faster than normal. I'm running about 7psi and we estimate the turbo is pushing maybe 12psi worth of air. | |
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22-01-2008, 12:31
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#7 | | MIGWeb User
Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Suffolk/Staffs Drives: 78 Kadett C
Posts: 2,254
| awesome, 9.5:1 is a good starting point, i'm in the process of gathering parts to turbo my c20xe which is 10.5:1 and thats going to be a pain !!
it's really quite clever, so it's just a blow off valve that opens once a certain boost level is reached ? what device controls this ? i'm going to consider this method, as quick spooling is what i'm going for
haha Top Gear is about the only thing on tv worth watching
it's a shame about the gearboxes, the F28 will be nice, and also give you another gear
very interesting read by the way, im slowly making through it all | |
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23-01-2008, 01:47
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#8 | | MIGWeb User
Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Toronto, Canada Drives: Turbo Optra/Lacetti
Posts: 43
| Quote:
Originally Posted by djivesp awesome, 9.5:1 is a good starting point, i'm in the process of gathering parts to turbo my c20xe which is 10.5:1 and thats going to be a pain !!
it's really quite clever, so it's just a blow off valve that opens once a certain boost level is reached ? what device controls this ? i'm going to consider this method, as quick spooling is what i'm going for
haha Top Gear is about the only thing on tv worth watching
it's a shame about the gearboxes, the F28 will be nice, and also give you another gear
very interesting read by the way, im slowly making through it all |
10.5:1 is a bit harder to deal with but I think should still be doable with good tuning. My shop has an Acura Integra GSR turbo with 10.5:1 CR. Puts out 400whp, but has full AEM EMS standalone.
As for the boostgate device..........its just a normal Turbosmart 38mm external wastegate. I have a boost source from the compressor outlet connected to the W/G, which is located a bit further along the piping, but before the intercooler. The W/G came with a 5psi spring, and I've tried both manual and electronic boost controllers to raise the boost up a few more psi. They both seem to work fine. We have tried this method on several other turbo cars in the shop, it worked great on all but one. Only way to know if it will work for you is to try
You've been reading thru my thread on daewootech? cool haha thats quite a long one. | |
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23-01-2008, 10:11
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#9 | | MIGWeb User
Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: hertford Drives: v6 veccy+legnum vr-4
Posts: 2,344
| so is the u20sed basically a x20xev??? | |
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23-01-2008, 18:39
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#10 | | MIGWeb User
Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Pueblo, Colorado, US Drives: '89 opel kadett GSi
Posts: 525
| Quote:
Originally Posted by phunky monkey so is the u20sed basically a x20xev??? | yes and no... silly answer I know but here is how it brakes down... X20XEV vs. U20SED (specifically 04-current US spec)
Motor Core: all the specs are all the same, this can be said for ALL 2.0 blocks with the only difference being minor variations of bore size over the years (with in 0.010"=.25mm). the difference is that the XEV comes with a manufacturer supplied main girdle, the U20SED does not. the provisions are not even in the US spec block. This is not a big deal, there are ways around it but all other specs are identical. Crank: the cranks are identical to each other and are like the 8v cranks. the redtop crank is VERY different and is lighter weight. Main Bearings: Identical Rod Bearings: Identical to ALL 2.0 motors (and motors in the same "R90" family) Connecting Rods: the rods are identical to each other and again are thin and come from the same casting as the 8v motors. this also means they use a pressed in piston pin. the dimensions otherwise are the same as ALL 2.0 motors and this means upgrading to redtop rods is a great option. Pistons: they both use the same type pressed pin piston, the pistons and rings are the same quality but the compression ration is less in the State (strict emission regulations). the only CR available in the States (from the manufacturer) is 9.6:1 Head: I want to say that the casting are the some on all eco motors but for some reason I think the early eco motor came with NO emission equipment in Europe. The cams are different (or so is speculated, I'd like someone to spec an XEV cam for me to know for sure). the valves are said to be the same in all ways. Inlets: identical Throttle Bodies: SOME of the throttle bodies are the same, 98-05 are cable and 06-current are DBW in the States. Not really sure about the UK so I wont put my foot in my mouth. Fuel System: HERE IS WHERE THINGS CHANGE! in ALL UK and European they use a fuel rail that has an inlet and a return with a pressure regulator. in the States the 98-03 eco uses an identical system. in the 04-current eco, the use a "returnless" fuel rail with no regulator. this means that the fuel can't be played with at all in the current US spec eco. Flywheels: Identical, the both use the 8v type 6-bolt flywheel where the redtop uses an 8-bolt (as I'm sure everyone knows) Ancillaries: like water pump, oil pump, cam pulleys, alternator... are the same.
hope I'm not for getting anything important...
cheers! | |
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24-01-2008, 03:30
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#11 | | MIGWeb User
Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Toronto, Canada Drives: Turbo Optra/Lacetti
Posts: 43
| Awesome reply garrett!! thanks, I didn't know alot of that information too | |
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09-03-2008, 12:20
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#12 | | MIGWeb User
Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Toronto, Canada Drives: Turbo Optra/Lacetti
Posts: 43
| F28
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14-03-2008, 12:43
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#13 | | MIGWeb User
Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Suffolk/Staffs Drives: 78 Kadett C
Posts: 2,254
| Very nice, now we can see how far you can push the engine 
Did it cost a lot to be shipped over ?! | |
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14-03-2008, 14:42
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#14 | | Regional Co-ordinator
Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Somerset Drives: smallblock Novas
Posts: 14,559
| Awesome little car there. You guys sure push engines further than we dare. I think for 1 reason. The cost of your cars are much cheaper than in the uk, secondly, your aftermarket parts are much cheaper too.
Keep at it, hope the F28 helps with further mods & speed ofcourse.
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V8 blender FTW | |
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29-03-2008, 01:31
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#15 | | MIGWeb User
Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Toronto, Canada Drives: Turbo Optra/Lacetti
Posts: 43
| Quote:
Originally Posted by djivesp Very nice, now we can see how far you can push the engine
Did it cost a lot to be shipped over ?! |
Yeah I can't wait to get it in! Cost was $320 CAD to ship to Canada. | |
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29-03-2008, 01:43
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#16 | | MIGWeb User
Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Toronto, Canada Drives: Turbo Optra/Lacetti
Posts: 43
| Quote:
Originally Posted by CraigGreen Awesome little car there. You guys sure push engines further than we dare. I think for 1 reason. The cost of your cars are much cheaper than in the uk, secondly, your aftermarket parts are much cheaper too.
Keep at it, hope the F28 helps with further mods & speed ofcourse. | Yeah our parts are less expensive...... I got a complete used motor (for spare) for $350 CAD. It included all sensors, injectors, manifolds, and even power steering pump.
I've also got a carbon-kevlar clutch coming for the F28 and new pressure plate. | |
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29-03-2008, 14:56
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#17 | | MIGClub Member
Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Telford Drives: Astra Mk3/Mk4 Cabrio
Posts: 2,815
| Cracking project you've got going there! As as been mentioned before aftermarket and OEM parts over here are far too overpriced. but we get by somehow lol
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1.8 Mk4 Astra Cabrio rolling on 18s
1.4 Mk3 Astra Rattletrap! Soon to be XE Rattletrap!
Too close for missiles; switching to guns | |
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31-03-2008, 02:39
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#18 | | MIGWeb User
Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Toronto, Canada Drives: Turbo Optra/Lacetti
Posts: 43
| Quote:
Originally Posted by tommychimp Cracking project you've got going there! As as been mentioned before aftermarket and OEM parts over here are far too overpriced. but we get by somehow lol | Thanks man! It will be interesting to see how far I can take it. | |
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31-03-2008, 03:01
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#19 | | MIGWeb User
Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Toronto, Canada Drives: Turbo Optra/Lacetti
Posts: 43
| While I have them side by side, I decided to make some brief visual comparisons. I have not started the swap yet, the D20 is my broken one from before. F28 vs D20
D20 = 83lbs = 37.6kg
F28 = 112lbs = 50.8kg
-First thing I notice is the weight of course, F28 is about 30 lbs heavier!
-Next major thing was the size of the input shafts, F28 is significantly larger and beefier. D20 shaft looks like a pencil beside it lol. (the picture doesn't do it justice)
-F28 appears to have two plugs on it for internal sensors, one has to be the reverse signal, and I've read the other is a 1st gear signal which was used by the 4x4 system.
-D20 also looks as if it could run the cable clutch without issue which makes sense given how close it is to F20
-both appear to have identical speedo drive (I test fitted the speedo signal sender from D20 on the F28, and it fits right on no problem)
-F28 has drain and fill holes, while D20 only has fill.
-F28 casing says GETRAG on it D20 says Daewoo :|
On to the pictures...       | |
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04-04-2008, 08:52
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#20 | | MIGWeb User
Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Toronto, Canada Drives: Turbo Optra/Lacetti
Posts: 43
| New carbon-kevlar clutch
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15-05-2008, 14:14
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#21 | | MIGWeb User
Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Toronto, Canada Drives: Turbo Optra/Lacetti
Posts: 43
| Updates
Just some updates........ I have everything needed for the gearbox swap, but still waiting on my shop :| | |
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15-05-2008, 14:15
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#22 | | MIGWeb User
Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Toronto, Canada Drives: Turbo Optra/Lacetti
Posts: 43
| Projectors
In the meantime, this is what I've been working on:
Now that I've decided to do a projector retrofit for sure, I've researched and decided what projectors I want to use.
I will be going with the projectors from the Infinity FX35 with clear lense because they are Bi-xenon and a reasonable size and price. Also they have a nice sharp cutoff. I will be using the Philips OEM 85122 D2S bubs as well.
I've got a spare set of headlights to use for this job while so that I can still drive around in the meantime.
Heres some pics of them:      | |
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15-05-2008, 14:16
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#23 | | MIGWeb User
Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Toronto, Canada Drives: Turbo Optra/Lacetti
Posts: 43
| Colour modding the FX projectors
I've been playing around with the FX35 projectors and I've noticed in stock form the cutoff line is very yellowish/red. This just isn't cool lol. After some research on HIDplanet forms, I found out how to mod them to get a blue cutoff line to get that sweet blue flicker in the distance. Keep in mind a 4100k OEM Philips bulb was used for these tests.
Before modding the shield (cutoff is yellowish): 
After modding the shield (cutoff now has a soft "blue band"): 
The bi-xenon shield before mod: 
Bi-xenon shield after modding....... bent the shield closest to the lense downwards:  | |
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15-05-2008, 14:18
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#24 | | MIGWeb User
Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Toronto, Canada Drives: Turbo Optra/Lacetti
Posts: 43
| More cutoff pictures
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