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About LinkBacksWas gonna say you can chop more of that front panel out without probs.
Was gonna say you can chop more of that front panel out without probs.
Originally Posted by Rallycorsa
Kenny keep an eye on MSA regs for weight on car, not 100% but think 1600 have to be no less than 920kg as from next year.
But as you probably no the MSA are not very good at getting the regs over clear and concise.
PS liking the build look forward to seeing you on the stages
920kg,, that s way to heavy,, whats the limit now?
is this cos new cars are getting heavier and slower now,,,and don`t wanna be shown upp by the old skoolers?
no what kev is referring to is rally regs that take into account passengers, fluids, spare wheel, tools, jack etc. i think thats how it goes anyway.
whats the weight for a 1400?
yeah might leave more front panel off, cheers simps. will see how everything else fits around it all.
actually passengers wont be a factor.
I will stick a post on BR rally forum and see what the crack is.
a few updates to this now. im no longer a skint student nursing hangovers and eating junkfood, im back living at home, earning some money and keeping myself reasonably healthy
nova wont be progressing at full speed just yet as im gonna be paying this off for a while, but im so glad to have a car to get about in again. just so happens i really like it too
excuse the coating of dirt, salt and dewy frosty stuff. what do you call that? the stuff you get on cold nights that isnt frost?
had a real treat on saturday morning thats really spurred me on, i got a trip at full pace round a forest stage in an ex colin mcrae mk2 escort, what an absolute treat it was. i cannot express how good it felt, knowing what the car was and its history and watching the ditches coming at me from all angles. scandinavian flicks rule!
well i'll start by showing you my weekends work, im very proud of it! raided the local argos for storage boxes and gutted the garage and stored stuff neatly
also prepped and primed all the body plastics (except skirts which are staying in their original finish) ready to be stored away. also finished cutting the front, dont know what i'll do for number plate now tho as i plan on putting corner lamp pods on here....
did a few more bits of tidying then nipped out to garyvauxs house to pinch some torx sockets and stripped my 14xe ready for an assessment of condition (ABSOLUTE MESS!), cleaning then storage till its time come around. quite how this engine pulled so well i'll never know. assume the shallow pockets on the pistons are standard?
head looking equally delightful!
some bits layed out.
a shot of the amount of gunk in the oil breather.
NASTY!!!!
plans for the engine are quite simple and basic.
full bottom end rebuild with arp bolts
rebuild the head with mild porting
retain standard cams for time being.
will be built on standard inlet to start with but i want bike carbs and mappable management on there eventually
gonna make my own exhaust, as high up to the tunnel/floor as possible, maybe on spring catches too if im feeling fancy.
also gonna have a crack at a DIY oil recirc breather set up.
gonna take time tho
need to get the shell stitched up and source a cage soon.
thats a cool numberplate, living in oban n all,, ive been there nice place,, was it a fluke or did you buy the plate?,, and back to the xe, is there any advantage in the oil recirc breather set up?
also gonna have a crack at a DIY oil recirc breather set up.
.
plate was a birthday present
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well-preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, thoroughly used, totally worn out and loudly proclaiming... "f*ck, what a trip!"
Kenny the oil recirc is pretty easy if you want details let me know.
as al has said, yes its a bought plate. got it from the old man for my 18th. blanked out digits represent my intials too, so its got double meaning.
oil recirc prevents starvation at the crank when cornering at high revs. im quite sure my engine would be fine without it but id like to try it.
cant see too much issues with it, will give you a shout for some details and a good price on some hoses and fittings
as of today this is my plan for the car. want to get it built to a decent starter spec and improve as i go. after a while id like to reshell it into a really good spec shell be it nova or corsa and take it to the next level.
all bits in red are parts i already have or things already done.
things written in [ ] brackets are upgrades id like to get done before my planned shell upgrade.
please note there is no timescale on this and most parts will be second hand.
bodyshell:
all unnecessary material and bracketry removed
bolt in rollcage
seat rails
stitch welding
DIY chassis plating kit
floor holes welded up
bodywork:
polycarbonate side and rear windows
lightened tailgate
lightened doors
lightened bonnet
lightened front wings
lightened GSi bumpers and skirts
bumper irons removed
bumper corner lamp pods
mudflaps on all wheels
steel tank guard
alloy sump guard
braking:
fr:
astra 16v calipers [wilwood 4 pots]
pads unknown at present
grooved disks
rr:
standard drums
mintex fast road shoes
hardware:
bias pedal box w/ dash adjust
copper lines
(lines run inside. any exposed sections shrouded in rubber)
steering:
2.5 turn quick rack
suede dished wheel
(rack can be extended into cabin using extra corsa UJ if necessary)
suspension:
fr:
bilstein cup 40mm dampers [coilover conversion using existing inserts]
springs unknown at present
concentric alloy top mounts [eccentric]
strengthened bottom arms
uniballs
nova GSi 22mm tiebars
poly bushes throughout [rose joint lowered tie bar mounts]
ARB removed
upper strut brace
rr:
bilstein tarmac dampers
springs unknown at present
poly bushes
GSi ARB
upper strut brace
interior:
fully stripped
brake lines run inside
fuel lines run inside
FIA approved bucket seats
FIA approved harnesses
FIA electrical masterswitch
handheld extinguisher
plumbed in extinguisher
lightened dashboard
lightened dashboard fittings
modified heater (blows to screen only)
fuelling:
standard nova steel tank
protected filler neck (steel guards and rubber shrouding)
low pressure pump
swirl pot kit
2x high pressure pumps (in bay, plumbed thru both but only one powered at
any time)
plastic line to/from swirl pot [braided lines]
braided lines in engine bay
wheels tyres:
14inch alloys
whatever i can get!
engine:
x14xe corsa sport engine (fully rebuilt)
ARP conrod bolts
lightened flywheel
baffled sump
DIY recirculating oil catch system
standard head [porting, bigger valves, bigger cams, solid lifters, verniers]
standard inlet [gsxr carbs on custom inlet with mappable management &
lumenition]
nova GSi radiator
4-1 manifold w/heat wrap
custom 2inch steel exhaust (tight to floor)
transmission:
standard F13CR gearbox [quaife SCCR (when im rich!)]
possible FD alterations
standard diff [70% LSD]
corsa internal shifter [hockly style internal shifter]
rose jointed linkage [obsolete]
clutch unknown at present
good stuff i like projects that are done on verry little money
make sure to service the engine in the rover alot we all know what they do
trampdrift
id put the high pressure pumps in a sealed box behind the drivers seat (ideal spot away from any possible crash damage/fire hazzard)
sounds like it will be a brilliant wee car when finnished.
stripped the engine down, was full of ****e! gonna replace the shells, rings, seals, oil and water pumps and fit arps then rebuild bottom end. also gonna baffle sump. heres how it looks now.
and the head will be treated to new stem seals and some mild porting, currently looks like this tho (need to get a valve spring compressor...or borrow garys)
one of the pistons is full of pock marks, i assumed this was due to a foreign object entering the cyclinder at some point and that the engine would of been rebuilt since but mr olsen thinks theyre det marks, im tending to agree with him as the marks are all in 2 areas on opposite ends of the piston. tried a picture but it was hard to capture due to the lighting.
cant see **** from that pic really but its all i could do
as you can probably tell, my garage is currently unusable!
shame theres no way of knowing if its the original head or piston(s) from that engine. if youre coming to the pub tonight stick it in your pocket :P
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well-preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, thoroughly used, totally worn out and loudly proclaiming... "f*ck, what a trip!"
sorry al, didnt make it to the pub. went to glasgow instead.
back on topic: any handy hints for clearing out the coolant tracts in the block before i go blasting them with a pressure washer?
also found out that its a 16XE head on the 1400 block (not sure of X or C - go check the part numbers), might explain some of its power! need to do some research now to find out what cams it has, theyre GM cams but theres a few painted marks on them. is there a general "normal" way of marking reprofiled cams? i.e. methods and locations?
I think thats the same number as yours, (above is a c16xe head)
nope mine is R 90 470 271
any ideas anyone?
does that mean its more likely to be an x16xe head? or tbh it could be the 1400 head, but there is evidence to suggust its a 1600 head.
Last edited by kennybarbour; 27-01-2008 at 19:19.
afaik the x16 and x14 share a head anyway mate,might only apply to the x16xel tho.
What told you it was a 1600 head?
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well-preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, thoroughly used, totally worn out and loudly proclaiming... "f*ck, what a trip!"
great big 16 cast into it, and the cam pulley marked with 16XE suggests that maybe a head swap had been done. also valves are quite large.
Thats a different number to my x16xe head.
do i need to find someone with an EPC to search the number for me?
Nothing comes up with those numbers in epc.
wtf! im gonna go check it again incase ive misread it or copied it down wrong!
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