my new mk3 astra gsi...... turbo ;)

[Mitch2.0]

yea its not a drip, its a constant stream of oil!

... Oh sh1t mate, it's just never ending, on the plus side your oil presure won't be too high... your heart rate, that's a different story.

Chin up bud.

[rc]

well the plans gonna be to whip the driveshaft back out, get a small power file on the crack and give it a bit of serface area then chemical metal all round there, will be the last chance without disconecting everything, if that fails i will get another adapter made and use the lug next to this one and totally block the origional off!

coludnt be bothered to have another day laying under the astra today, so kust gave it a wash off





all looks a bit high, havnt got any interior in the back at the mo



and heres the heightening those new top mounts have done!

[shanger]

not having much luck glad to see its not getting you down to much. when you get around to 4x4 yours you are more than welcome to come up and have a look at mine and pick are brains there are one or two thing we would do diffrent

[rc]

not having much luck glad to see its not getting you down to much. when you get around to 4x4 yours you are more than welcome to come up and have a look at mine and pick are brains there are one or two thing we would do diffrent

cheers mate! i'll be rear wheel driving mine! but all the rear half will be the same, i'm gonna be talking to as many 4x4 astra people as i can find to see how they've done their rear floor etc, think im in a good position to let tother people do the research and development this time lol!

[Benn]

Hope you can get it sorted dude, keep ya chin up.
Not feeling the top mounts tho..



*gary, thinking aboutit manifolds are cast yeah.. seen my olf boss weld one of them easyly..*

[KeithRobinson]

Gutted to see another person has had the same trouble as me. I took mine to my engine builder and he said there is no way of gaurenteeing a proper job on the feed as at full rev's it could be around 6 bar of pressure.

I was told chemical metal wouldnt hold either.

I was also told that welding would be tempory and that there's no gaurentee the weld wont crack, because the weld will always cool down faster than the block causing it to crack again.

With this advice I sourced another block, had it bored and everything swapped over.

Keith

[Dan Boyes]

FFS dude, really wanted this to go well for you

but feel safe in the knowledge that we're all behind you and feel your pain

probably quite as much as you, but we feel it lmao

good luck with it pal


(p.s. did ask previously but you've had a bit on your plate since then, what suspension springs you using mate? )

[Kev_cav]

Gutted to see another person has had the same trouble as me. I took mine to my engine builder and he said there is no way of gaurenteeing a proper job on the feed as at full rev's it could be around 6 bar of pressure.

I was told chemical metal wouldnt hold either.

I was also told that welding would be tempory and that there's no gaurentee the weld wont crack, because the weld will always cool down faster than the block causing it to crack again.

With this advice I sourced another block, had it bored and everything swapped over.

Keith

Was going to say the above its just not worth your engine after you have spent all that time and money on it,

I have a let block has a scored bore(tiny mark) still complete
just feel sorry for you after reading all of this
Good luck whichever route you choose

[Gaz86]

Hope you can get it sorted dude, keep ya chin up.
Not feeling the top mounts tho..



*gary, thinking aboutit manifolds are cast yeah.. seen my olf boss weld one of them easyly..*

what did he use? did he heat it before and slowly bring the temp down after? cast is easy to blat a weld onto but if it is left like a normal weld itll crack straigh away, he probably brazed it which could solve ronnies problem come to think of it.

[rc]

right well had a bash with it tonight



whipped the driveshaft out for acess



here it is



got the magic stuff



v'd out the cracks and cleaned up and degreased all the area



chemical metaled it all up



the packet said cured in 10 mins, able to drill and tap in 20mins, so i left it for two and a half hours to be sure

but 30seconds after start up





what a prick!

i give up!

[Benn]

what did he use? did he heat it before and slowly bring the temp down after? cast is easy to blat a weld onto but if it is left like a normal weld itll crack straigh away, he probably brazed it which could solve ronnies problem come to think of it.

It was left running to warm it up, then welded it.. i know it didnt blow. Not the neatest welding i've seen but it did the job.

[Benn]

Dont give up dude, can you not use the one next to it? (closeest to the camera?)
Thern just seal the other one up..

[rc]

Dont give up dude, can you not use the one next to it? (closeest to the camera?)
Thern just seal the other one up..

if i could seal the other one then i wouldnt have a problem!

[WheelyBigCheese]

Walk away from it, have a break and clear your head. I take my hat off to you for your perseverance, alot of people would of broke the car by now.

[SteveM]

Gutted for you dude

could you not sleeve it inside further than the crack ?

[spanishfly]

Not good mate, looks like it will need a new block. Or could you not bolt it from inside, chemical metal from the inside, then use the other hole.

[Benn]

Whatabout fitting cap to it and then brazing it?

[nuss]

Just a guess mate but could the allen bolt on the left be removed and fitted with some sealer in the cracked hole but from the inside then use the other for the feed?
Proper gutted for you mate but as said dont give up will be worth it in the end!

[andy888]

off the oil leak subject bud but i wouldnt recommend using that new spring on the cambelt tensioner. renown for coming off and f*cking up the timing by getting jammed round the pulleys. with your luck n all!

[Ginge]

Ronnie, take a step back and look, take the block lesson on the chin and source a new one.

I assume you can reuse most of the parts from the latest build up?

You have no choice but to complete this build...

So who cares if you are going to rip it apart next year to make the RWD one, this has to be finished or i'll Rick Draper you.

Ginge

[Mitch2.0]

You seem to have spent more time fixing this than driving it - no point giving up now matey. Don't run into the RWD project - get it working first and enjoy it a bit surely?

A new block will be a hassle, but surely it's the best option?

[vxlgsi]

Ronnie, just plug the damaged hole and use another oil feed, pain in the arse and id have given up if it was mine, but you've worked too hard on it now.

[@ndy]

Keep at it Ronnie.

[LongLiveTheNova]

Fook me, how much of that chemical metal did you put on? lol


This leak is starting to piss me off now, and its not even my car lmao
Hope you keep at it mate

How was it leaking through the chemical metal? Seeping "through" the actual chemical metal, or is it leaking from somewhere else and then dripping down the chemical metal?
I would of thought that chemical metal would do the job tbh, if it was mixed right. Its hard as F**k and even survived inside inlet/exhaust ports on my old engine! lol I would of expected it to withstand oil easily, unless its just the pressure it cant hold back.

[Dan Boyes]

really really feel for you mate.

nothing worse than something like this messing everything up.

chin up mate , onwards and upwards