Yeah, im a bit lazy when it comes to reading. Its cause im dumb!![]()
Yeah, im a bit lazy when it comes to reading. Its cause im dumb!![]()
ASTRA TURBO PROJECT:http://www.migweb.co.uk/forums/projects-restorations/418177-ashtals-astra-mk4.html
Hardly, you are just lazy LOL
They were meant for strengthening the cylinders yes.
and it wasn´t concrete, it was a kind of plastic(moroso blockfiller)
But my new engine runs without this, kepping fingers crossed it will work.
i have a newer engineblock that is MUCH more rigid.
it has thicker sleeves and more material around crank.
Weight´s a couple of more kilos,, but what the heck
The plastic were about as thick 3cms.
I see, no metal rods or machining in there then! What block you running now then? any pics?
ASTRA TURBO PROJECT:http://www.migweb.co.uk/forums/projects-restorations/418177-ashtals-astra-mk4.html
hi, relatively new on here, but love your car!!
could you please tell me, will i get to see this at Gatebil this year??
Actually i don´t think so Pugme, Maybe on Gatebil on Mantorp if that one is this year too.
Ashtal, no no strengthening on cylinders at all besides pianowire to seal.
It´s hard to tell by pics as it all looks the same, but there are one specific detail that differs.
underneeth the std pipe for oilpin/ventilation there are a hole in the block std so you can read eventuella ignitiontiming on flywheel.
Older block don´t have this.
And it´s prepared in the cast for maingirdle, bosses to drill and thread.
If you can see those two beside eachother you will note more differences, thicker material around main´s and in cylinders.
I´ll locate the enginenumber as it might tell us something.
And,,, i Pulled it off!!
sick actually..
Idle at 950rpm (oscillating a littlebit still, but moves around 950rpm, oscillated between ~980-890rpm
Lambda 1
was a little bit tricky with idlevalve, lambda loops,ignition
Finetune a little bit more and it might stop oscillate.
a thing that realeased this was the camshafttrigger, it lost signal on rpm´s under 1000rpm, wasn´t aware of that.
i fixed that and it let me tune a little bit more.
Quite cool,,, 272degree at 0.05" and 10.9 lift, 2mm lift at OD on inlet, 1,6mm lift on exhaust.
these are aggresive camshafts i promise you and still,,,, manage to idle so low with 1680 injectors.
put on an catalysator and it will be accepted at MOT..in Sweden - Bilprovningen(cartesting)
Do you seriously mean 1.6mm? on ex? Is that still hydraulic lifters, or solids?
Paid up member of the TXT SPK Prevention Society!!
Yes you read it correct.
Exhaust opens a little bit earlier than my camgrinder had plans for, just to get some hard pulses out the manifold to bang the turbine.
Therefor they are a little bit more closed than inlet at overlap. you also get stable idle to have more lobesepartion.
And i can never understand the advantage of getting rid of overlap adjusting inletcamshaft, you sacrifice so much torque retardig the inlet, better advancing exhaust you benefit two things.
And the cams are running hydraulic lifter.
an early vid, got it to oscillate less later, but no vid on that
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zF7YA7fODl8
I would like to say that this is the best Mk1 Astra in the world ... but with the 4x4 Grey one ... it is close .
I canny invest in ya and for that reason , I'm oot .
That would be here Mr Insane Swede . Who owns the silver MK1 Astra C20LET 4x4
Total Vauxhall turns into a porn mag
I canny invest in ya and for that reason , I'm oot .
Uff,,
Was going through linkbacks to this thread,, it´s a shame one doesn´t speak like 10 languages *lol*
I´m beginning to think my work is known all over the world![]()
Just feeling forced to reply on this on the C20LET forum:
Well,, not many corrects there.Originally Posted by Weißer KADETT TURBO
;4207078
Never had F28 with 4wd connected in this car
Always been 2.3litre with 4wd
Never boosted above 2.08bar with this setup.
Mine GT 35 has 0.82 A/R on exhaust.
You Germans really have to learn English.![]()
I don't think so Ash as he says its not wedged or filled now and he is yet to see how it gets on.
If you not running any form of strength in the deck, you will most likely burst cylinder 3, it seems to be the weakest cylinder. I had the same problem with the 2L block which also has the window to see the flywheel.
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Opel Corsa 20xe throttle bodies - 245bhp - 13.2 1/4 mile
Opel Corsa 20XE Turbo - 10.7 1/4 mile @ 231km/h
Opel 200TS - eds phase 2 - water/methanol 306bhp @ 0.9 bar boost - stock turbo
Ooups.!! severe damage..
But!!
A friend of mine cracked an LET block also, and i never heard of anyone done that before.
One cannot blame the block alone, the tune is very important also.
a little bit too high ignition can damage almost anything.
and one more aspect, when having high sideloads(short conrods) you put the engineblock in stress.
And one more again, if not having correct cirkulation on water you might get airbubbles and often is it just were airbubbles occur the block cracks.
Question Pantera: how many blocks have you seen having this problem?
I have seen about 3 or 4 ecotec blocks with this exact problem and i have seen a High spec 2.4L N/A engine also burst cyl 3 but that was doing 260kw running on methanol. This block broke on the dyno, boosting 2 bar no problems, went to 2.2bar went fine setting it on the boost controller, the very next run this happened. On an XE block now and even @ 2.2bar with same map, everything is fine. Also on the ecotec block the cylinders were wearing oval, which means they were deforming before it broke
Opel Corsa 20xe throttle bodies - 245bhp - 13.2 1/4 mile
Opel Corsa 20XE Turbo - 10.7 1/4 mile @ 231km/h
Opel 200TS - eds phase 2 - water/methanol 306bhp @ 0.9 bar boost - stock turbo
Amazing and detailed work!!
E-mail: alpharm@otenet.gr
Online: Opelparts@hotmail.com
Skype: Opelparts
Now let´s see,, how long rods in the 2.2 and which cylinderbore? and what maximum rpm allowed?
When having huge amount of pistonspeed in low ratio engines(rod/stroke) you get piston rattling at tdc and bdc, this might even brake the wristpin and piston sure does rattle against cyliderwalls.
std length in 2.2 on rods is 148mm wich gives ratio ~1.55
std length in 2.0 is 143mm wich gives 1,66 in ratio
mine is 158mm and gives 1.65 in ratio.
This gives me almost the same 'low' sideload on bores as in an 2.0 engine.
And i have altered coolantflow to not acheive bubbles in coolant,(air is compressible, water ain´t)
This coolant mods helped the friend of mine with his C20let ~795hp
And many Volvotuners in Sweden cracks engines when having bad ratio and short rods.
When having that sorted they come to next problem around 1000hp,, crank cracks *lol*
Very important when running Coscast head to fix this watermod as they are more 'blocked' in flow std.
And important is to keep engine at about 75degree celsius when operating(marginal for local boilings,if boiling somewhere well that equals airbubble inside.)
The broken block in the pic is a 2L block, with 2L crank, using the standard length 143mm rods, maximum Rpm is 8000rpm
Opel Corsa 20xe throttle bodies - 245bhp - 13.2 1/4 mile
Opel Corsa 20XE Turbo - 10.7 1/4 mile @ 231km/h
Opel 200TS - eds phase 2 - water/methanol 306bhp @ 0.9 bar boost - stock turbo