no worries, dont get me wrong, uni balls are a lovely bit of kit, just a bit overkill for a track car imo
you're not wrong!!lmao
ok, so a bit more progress
i did have to move the joint inwards on the TCA plate to get some clearance for steering lock!![]()
only had to redrill the plate though
i dont quite get full lock, but only about 5 mm off, this is no problem for me as my car is primarily a track car, but you may want all your lock, if so you could move the bracket a bit further in on the arm,
or, if you could be arsed, move the mounting point on the cross member(ballache!) i'm leaving mine as is
final job was to box in the plates, made a plate
cut it to length and welded it in, it needs to be open at one end to get the anti crush
tubes in under the ball joint, the finished prototype
will start the cross member brackets this weekend![]()
oooh, should say, my wheels are 7 inch wide 49mm offset, so there will be more room if you have thinner rims(which i will have by the time the car is back on the road) if i do a kit i will make the bracket sit so that the bar will clear to full lock with any wheel size
good progress mate, look the bollocks too
one thing to watch when adding strenghth to a lower arm is to consider future accident damage, a lower arm will fold in an accident even a strenghthened 'boxed in' type but if you fully weld in the boxes it can push the chassis leg in in a crash .
Does look a good job though should make a real diference to the handling. it should feel very nice and easy to hit the apex when you want it to.
One plus point about uniballs is when you have fully R/J'd everywhere else this becomes the weakest point , also the way standard joints fail on a rally car is usually the forward and back motion if the wheel is exaggerated by movement in rubber bushes and the load under braking etc shear the pin at the pinch bolt. when the suspension is solid like that you should rule that problem out but the ball joint socket will wear quickly i suspect. You will hear the knocking long before any worry and you will get like 10 sets of standard joints to a set of uniballs!!!
very cool dude,
I'm louder than gods own revolver and twice as shiney.
cheers for the comment guys, as long as i can make the front bracket quite simple i will be doing a kit![]()
mr rallycar(got a first name?lmao ), excellent info as everi was a bit worried about strengthening the arm too much, but i think it'll be ok, think you're eright about the ball joints wearing, will have to see i guess, they are cheap as thoughlmao
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Keep me informed on the kits!
if ya need a 2nd car to try it on... It has to be RED! I can lend ya one![]()
www.shonkyopels.de
lol, might well do as it goes, would need something to mock up against, i'll let you know![]()
ok matey!![]()
www.shonkyopels.de
righty, so made a start on the cross member brackets today
did some measuring, and cut some plate, put some folds in it for strength
thsi bolts to the front of the panel, then i made a box to fit on the other side to add
some strength, and stop it bending! welded on, (shame the photos are abit out of focus, the welds look really goodlmao )
plug welded it too so it was strong(spot the recouring theme!)
then made a 3mm thick bracket to hold the rose joint
et voila! also cut to length the tube and welded in the inserts, did the usual chamfer the top of the tube and cut two slots further down too
and here it is on the car, need to add two more gussets for strength, but that can wait
till tommorow as i'm off out to london tonight
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man welding there dude,
I'm louder than gods own revolver and twice as shiney.
Lovely welding mate...
Good tape measure thatI got one just like it
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www.shonkyopels.de
Looks quality that mate!![]()
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lol, tape was a pound shop special if i remember rightlylmao , the welder just seemed to be set perfectly today, came out lovely!
ooh, must say, if you want a steak in london, try goucho on swallow street, top notch!![]()
Looks awesome!![]()
Brian Sidebotham.
Only just seen this project and read through all the pages. That is some top modding, I bet you can't wait to set up the camber / castor angles and get it back out on the track.
The best ride is never finished
cheers for the commentsoh and for breakfast mr Sssssssssssssslmao
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ok, so did the other side today, but first i had to add two gussets to the first
bracket, my mistake, i should have made the box longer but i forgot how low i needed the joint to sit!anyways, here they are all done
should stop it bending now!![]()
then it was onto the other side, did the lower arm first
then i made the two main pieces of the front cross member brackets, remembering how long i needed the box this timelmao
and now some gratuitous welding shots, again a 3mm plate was made to mount the joint
then i just finished the bar by adding the inserts, now they are off to be powder coated![]()
i think doing a kit will be fairly easy, i would have all the plates laser cut(12 plates per kit), then bend and weld them up myself, think i will mock it up on a more standard car though(already have one in mind mr spanishfly!) probably get my car finished first though, so kits would be a couple of months away
forgot to say, i now need to make up the spacers to go inbetween the mounting plates and the rose joints, then they're finished!![]()
very cool,
so this all helps the handling...
the rose joints just really help camber and tracking yeah?
I'm louder than gods own revolver and twice as shiney.
the rose joints just remove any excess play found in poly or rubber suspension bushes, so tun in and steering feel should improve, but they alspo have the added bonus of being able to use them like this to make the adjustment of castor a piece of piss![]()
Omce again lee - awesome work!
What kinda drop have you gone for on the front bracket over standard?
Do you think a kit could be made to account for us f28 boys?
Simps.