My GTE 16V Restoration Thread.

[Tom Williams]

Pure porn

[Astra Dan]

You lucky sod. Mine has "cost me a lot more than that!

The underside is still covered in mud after two hour long sessions with the jet wash and a hose:





And caught in the sump fins (or where they used to be):



On close inspection, it's cracked:



Still it's not leaking so it's fine.

Anyway for the sake of completness, the tray has tabs at the front:



That fit into slots in the lower fornt bracket (peculiar to 16V shells):



Various fitted pics:





BUT, amusingly, I've taken the freaking thing back off. I wanted to fit my re-built alternator back on as the temporary one I'd fitted sounded a bit rough and never goes above 12V on the dash, something I'd worked hard to at least partly eliminate.

For those that said earlier it's possible to change an alternator through the top: Yes, it's possible. In the same way it's possible to remove the entire engine withouth opening the bonnet. In my view, not worth the effort. It's rather tight:



I did get it out, but scratched the hell out of the inner wing and broke one of the clips on the black plastic wiring tray above the injectors. OK minor stuff, but I'd changed the alternator loads of times before with causing any damage. Grr.
Anyway, wrestled the new one back in, only to discover I'd fitted the back case 120 degrees out so the wiriring didn't reach. Rather than risk messing up more stuff, I jacked the car up and took the undertray off. It's rather delicate so I've stored it in the shed till I've mananaged to get all the crud off the underside of the car.

So overall, not really worth it....... lol

[Benn]

Looks good fitted in the pics tho.

[RobJenko]

tray looks cool danand liking the new steering wheel.
and ive suffered at the hands of sat nav too, sent me into a river then gave me a row for turning back!

[Astra Dan]

Well well. A long time has passed. Not covered many miles in the GTE at all of late, but then that's how winter hibernation works!
The few times I have driven it I've been frankly amazed at it's blistering performance! I still love the distinctive sound the engine makes. It just seems to love being revved to the red line. The engine seems healthy and strong, although maybe a bit clanky when cold but it's whisper quiet when warmed up.
Otherwise, there's been a few niggles.
First on my mind was the alternator. I'd been noticing the bearing was on the move again. Not wanting to repeat my failed attempt to get to Billing last year, Sharon and I decided to do something about it!



In the above pic you can see the bearing that's peened in place when the altenator is assembled new. When I had it refurbished, there's no option but to push the bearing out, hence breaking off the peened bits. Normally the new bearing is glued in place, and this usually works. For whatever reason it hasn't here, and pushing it back and attempting to peen it over again hasn't worked. So, I had a plan, and out came the drills and taps.

I centre punched in three good places around the outside of the bearing and drilled through with a 2.5mm drill. Then turned it over and showed Sharon how to cut a thread.



Then, back on the inside I put three 3mm screws in, with threadlock, to mechanically hold the bearing in place.



That bugger aint gonna move again.

Next up was the front suspension. It's always had a wierd wobble at 40ish, that quickly goes away. Also it could be a bit rattley over bad road surfaces. I tracked this down to the pistons moving side to side in the shock absorber bodies. Through various deals I ended up with a set of Eibach springs, so I thought it'd be rude not to use them. After all, I can always change it back if I don't like it. Assuming they are -30mm springs, I made sure to mention this when the insurance renewed in February (no charge, good old HIC).
I was also reminded about how rubbish the brakes have been since it's first Combe session years ago. So while planning the susspention upgrades, I found some grooved discs from the good old eBay, and planned to fit it all with Red Stuff pads recommended to me by Pete (pitstoppete).
So, strip-down commences:



The n/s outer CV boot had come loose again, seems to be a habit of late.



The GTE has always been very accomodating when it's come to taking it apart. Nothing gave any trouble, I even got the track rod ends out of the legs, more to make it easier to transport them to Pete's to use his press to fit new bearings easier than anything else.

Front stuff off, with the Eibachs ready to go on. Laid out logically to keep everything on it's correct side. New discs waiting in their boxes.



Front legs off and bearings soaking in WD40. The o/s bearing was in very bad shape. Very rough in rotation and the seal had popped out. Surprised I hadn't noticed this grumbling or something.



The circlip looked in very poor condition too and I was concerned it was going to put up a fight.



As it turned out, they came out OK and popping the old bearings out and pushing the new ones in was child's play. Thanks Pete! Also tapped out the holes for the calipers and wheel bolts as they had become full of crud somehow.

So now came the fun part of building up the legs with the new shocks. After a quick trip to Benn's place, we were stocked up:



Had KYB recommnded to me a few times by name and they're stupidly cheap, so I plumped for them. Sharon got right on it:



The beauty of a lady doing stuff up is that you know it can be undone again! Looked mightily satisfying when all together. Top mounts and bearings looked fine.



Slapping the new brakes on was lovely and easy.



Phwoar! They look like they mean business. Next up, the rear suspension. Comparison with the old and new springs:



I'm wondering if these springs are uprated rather than lowering. Typically, one of the rear shocks put up a fight, so I got serious with it.



The rear suspension of any beam Vauxhall is dead simple as most are aware, so it was all done in no time:



I'd also fitted a set of mudflaps. It had had them fitted before, so there was already holes in the front plastic underwing protectors.



Then, at the Spares Day in Coventry I managed to pick up a brand new rear wiper motor. Mine had the typical cracks in the cover, so we swpped them over. Removal was nice and easy. Just a case of removing the arm, then the large nut around the spindle. Then remove the boot lid trim, cut the cable ties and unplug the two wires to the connector. Unscrew the ground wire and feed wiring through.



Old and new:



All fitted and working lovely. I have also replaced the electric aerial becuase the reception was utterly awful. Maplins had one in stock for a reasonable £25. I've also replaced the front dash speakers with Kenwood KFC-E1052 100mm items (£20 delivered). These are a direct fit and plug straight in. The rears I found some JBL GTO6427 listed on eBay (£25) as fitting some VWs and Porsches, all being 4"x7". They aren't a direct fit as such, but as they're multi fit speakers, three out of the four holes can be used to mount them in the original spaces, so they're totally invisible and they plug straight in. Radio reception is near perfect now, and the bass is excellent! Even with the standard head unit.
Really pleased with my progress so far. Had the tracking reset, it was 3 degrees out. Doesn't look any lower to me, but the clonks and rattles are now totally gone. Just need to bed the brakes in fully to see how much, if any, they've improved.

One last thing to look at is the fuel tank. It seems to be sucking in for some reason, and I can't fill the tank past about halfway before the filling pump cuts out. If I keep trying, fuel actually spits back out of the filler neck. I've removed the filler pipes and the two thin breathers under the rear o/s arch, but as far as I can tell they're fine. There's no hiss or inward rush of air after the filler cap is removed, so I'm a bit stumped. I'll have to drop the entire tank and have a poke about I think.

[Benn]

About time on the shocks and springs, hopefully it will tighten her up a touch.
Brakes look alot better, do they feel better?

Like the touch of the new wiper motor too.
Dropping the tank i think will be the easest plan, gonna do it on mine too..lol

[CraigGreen]

Another excellent update!

I recall TomStickland suffered issues with his tank & it used to smell strongly of fuel in the cabin also.

[desso64]

what bodyshop do weld a outer arch from another car in or make a new 1 from sum sheet metal?

[desso64]

The circlip looked in very poor condition too and I was concerned it was going to put up a fight.



As it turned out, they came out OK and popping the old bearings out and pushing the new ones in was child's play. Thanks Pete! Also tapped out the holes for the calipers and wheel bolts as they had become full of crud somehow.

how did you get the bearings out?? with a press?

[alistairolsen]

That or run a bead of weld round the inside bore and hit them with a hammer and suitable socket.

[nrj]

christ you bought them eibachs from me about 3 years ago wasnt it? makes my progress look goodlmao


where did you get the red stuff from? take it they are 256mm? i cant find them listed on ebc site for 256mm.

[Astra Dan]

I think from eBay. Pete got them for me.

[desso64]

just curious what would a bead of weld do? you mean so you the socket would fit and you could wak it out?????

[Benn]

what bodyshop do weld a outer arch from another car in or make a new 1 from sum sheet metal?

You can buy arch replacement pannels...

[desso64]

You can buy arch replacement pannels...

Brand new ones?or used? from were i could do with them for my tigra???

also how does the weld on the hub work?

[Benn]

Brand new ones?or used? from were i could do with them for my tigra???

also how does the weld on the hub work?

Yeah brand new, brevers can do most pannels.

On can hub set on the beaming is so tight when you press it out the bearing stays on the hub its self, so gripping the bearing to push out can be hard. So adding lines on weld to each side allows you to grip iut on to hold while pushing the hub its self out.

[alistairolsen]

just curious what would a bead of weld do? you mean so you the socket would fit and you could wak it out?????

1) it shrinks when it cools and makes the bearing go a little slacker in the housing so it comes out easier

2) it gives you something to sit the socket on while you knowck **** out of it

[desso64]

were do i get info on brevers?
i have tryed google'n it??

[Benn]

Try it...

[Paul]

Ben its Beavers, not 'brevers' as you have said

[GTE 16v]

erm, no, you are both wrong.

http://www.beeversautopanels.co.uk/

[burns985]

A special respect for this GTE restoration.
I've done a kadett E GSi 16v restoration + moods, and i know how much work is needed.
Success in future,
Respect.

[desso64]

brilliant thanks for the liink

[Paul]

erm, no, you are both wrong.

http://www.beeversautopanels.co.uk/

I know what I meant, lmao

[Benn]

I know what I meant, lmao

So did i..lol