Brett's Astra GTE 16v Turbo Trackcar Project - Page 2

***Astra Dan*** · 10-08-2006, 08:16

I meant Mk3 Astra beam.

**Brett** · 10-08-2006, 08:42

same shock mounts though and not any wider I think?

Neil Adams · 10-08-2006, 12:28

Fantastic progress Brett. I've always been amazed at how people manage to get their engine bays looking like there's no wires involved. It sounds like you've got it nicely planned out and you're not rushing it - and that's a sure sign of a classic project in the making - can't wait for the next update.

**Brett** · 10-08-2006, 13:41

cheers Neil - its not going to be tonight though, Im going to steves to fit a digidash to his van, while he tries and works out what Ive broke on the Calibra

***Astra Dan*** · 10-08-2006, 16:54

That's right = no hassle and better handlng. IMO.

**Brett** · 11-08-2006, 09:07

trail and error is the chosen method for this car Dan

I'll bear it on mind when its on the road, the theory is the back end will be more stable with the wider rear track?

***Astra Dan*** · 11-08-2006, 12:56

Possibly yeah, but I like the idea of the camber conteracting the body's tendancy to roll...

**Brett** · 11-08-2006, 14:00

Im panning on using some washers betyween the hub and mounting face of the beam to dial some camber in though?

***Astra Dan*** · 11-08-2006, 22:24

Yeah, that might work, be interesting to see how it turns out.

Haynzee · 12-08-2006, 00:10

I think i figured out about 1.4mm for one degree of camber. presume you want some neg so put the shims on the bottom two holes

novarallycar · 12-08-2006, 23:38

just had a nose through this build, nice work!

Another thing about shimming the rear stub axles obviosly you want more neg camber but think about putting a tad more toe in on them also if you are using it on tracks . it will improve the stability in a straight line and have less of a tendancy to break away at the back unexpectedly.

Neil

**Brett** · 12-08-2006, 23:52

cheers for the comments lads!

I was going to put them on the bottom two holes, wasnt aware of the 1.4mm figure though haynzee, didnt know that

Not actually sure about toe, castor etc and what it is, anyone care to enlighten me? Steve/stt could probably tell me but they must get ****ed off with my constant questions!!

Haynzee · 14-08-2006, 22:24

I measured it at that back when I had a mk3. may or may not be accurate! if you want some more toe on the rear then you would put shims on the rear 2 holes, effectively making the wheels point inwards slightly at the front.

id leave it standard until you get it on the road. see how it handles and then you can start playing, not a big job.

looks great so keep us updated

**Brett** · 16-08-2006, 10:43

cheers bud, getting the hubs of isnt a big deal thank god, 4 nuts

WeeKenny · 16-08-2006, 16:53

1mm thick shims will give 1 degree of camber, I'd suggest using shim plates cut from 1mm plate with the holes for the bolts drilled. Its the way I ended up doing it as they are much easier to fit than fannying about with washers.

**Brett** · 16-08-2006, 20:56

Ok kenny, might look into that eventually, but washers allow me a bit more hit and miss adjustment to play around with untill I get it right. Like the idea of it, a more permanent less bodgetastic way!!

TJ Motorsport have sent me a rocket launcher instead of a quikrak

TJ motorsport have been really useful to us on astra-mk2.com, providing solid engine mounts specially made and so on. In the end Tim came up trumps with the quikraks too

I'm so happy to finally have one after all the ****ing around with RSC. It might have cost me £355 to buy the thing in the end but who cares, Ive got it now. The pursuit of Trevor/RSC goes on though

***Tom Williams*** · 16-08-2006, 21:03

Brett - ref calibra, if you havent fixed it yet, look at the anti roll bar links in the wheel well

the bolts sheer and then the end of the arb rubs the drive shaft when cornering

**Brett** · 16-08-2006, 21:14

cheers Tom, I checked for play in the arb and couldnt find anything, so I'll check for any cleaned up metal. Had that happen on a 1.4 Mk2 I had last summer for a bit, the link snapped whilst I was fecking around in a field LMFAO!!

havent identified the noise but it seems to have gone away. Hoping to find something wrong when the struts come off and apart for the new shocks at the weekend.

***Tom Williams*** · 16-08-2006, 21:20

the link on the roll bar drops about 5 inches from the end of the bar to the lower arm, and is threaded on the end of the bar and a nut sits on the other end

normally the bolt rusts and then the but sheers off the end

**Brett** · 27-08-2006, 18:46

Just put a battery on the loom for this first time

All went really really well, no major problems to report I dont think

It was great to have the windows opening, indicators & hazards going, brake lights tested, heater and wipers and washer jets going!! at fecking last!! Digi Dash even appears to be fully operational

Its just great, what a boost.

Digi Dash lights my day up:

A list of the parts that havent worked:
Fuse 3 and 6 both Blew. Potential worry here as there has been an incredible amont of p***ing around with the headlight loom- there are relays operating higher power bulbs and changing what ones are on, althought its not finished yet, and I also removed the control box thing that sits behind the dash on the back of the glovebox.... However I think that fuses 4 and 5 would have blown too if there were problems there.

no rear foglights or number plate light, but havent checked the bulbs yet or could be bad earth.

Interior light doesnt come on when opening the drivers door

boot light doesnt come on when opening the boot

**CraigGreen** · 28-08-2006, 15:17

Yeha. She's alive with 12v

The 1st step towards 200+ bhp

**Benn** · 28-08-2006, 18:43

cool,

**Brett** · 02-09-2006, 20:04

had the beam modified and welded today by a mates mums boyfreind, whos a bit **** hot with a welder and ARC welded it for me instead of MIG. Looks a really high quality job. At last I'll be able to fit the vectra brakes and sort out the handbrake and make up the final bit of brake lines.

**Brett** · 03-09-2006, 18:40

busy weekend on it for once LMFAO!

started yesterday at lunchtime when I went to get the beam welded by a freind. I had to get the shock mounts moved outwards slightly because the shocks fouled the inner arches when I first fitted it!

cutting of the brackets..

scars left, they didnt want to let go very easily at all!!

simon who was welding it opted to ARC weld it, I hadnt seen this been done before.

filling the hole from gringing it with welds...

youd never know there had ever been anything there by the time he'd finished..

finished article, the mounts were reatached about 10mm further up, they lean the way they do to make sure theres space to tighten a nut onto the bolt when the shocks fitted.

tidy job...

fits fine this time!

fitted it to the car today, there about 5mm of clearance now, when Ive made some slight adjustments to the inner arch (read smack with hammer) it should be 2-3mm more.

while I was at under the rear, I got on with taking the fuel tank of and undersealing the shell..

thats a major bit of the jigsaw pullzle sorted now then, once the beams on i can fit the brakes and finalise the postions of the brake lines. The corner has started to be turned!!

**CraigGreen** · 04-09-2006, 16:27

Looks good. Nice welds too.