LinkBack URL
About LinkBacksThanks Dom, might be useful to try and make something as the only way I have heard of checking them is with an oscilloscope...or driving the car and jamming on the brakes.Originally Posted by Dom
Thanks Dom, might be useful to try and make something as the only way I have heard of checking them is with an oscilloscope...or driving the car and jamming on the brakes.
To be honest with you, an audible indication would only really be good to see if there is a signal or not - it won't spot missing teeth or damaged abs rings.
Grab a portable scope from Maplin when they are on offer - worth its weight in gold for automotive use.
This looks rather good for the price - HPS140 Handheld Pocket Oscilloscope : Oscilloscopes & Function Generators : Maplin Electronics
Dom's online shop - www.picbits.co.uk/catalog,bulbs,cable,heatshrink etc
Please don't ask for general advice by Private Messages - PMs are for PRIVATE MESSAGES. General advice should be asked on the Forums !
Thanks Dom, I thought they were way more expensive than that, always thought they were many hundreds of pounds. Looks useful I think I might invest in one soon.
I am hoping that my hubs don't have any damage, I don't think they will have, they have only done about 15,000 miles since I replaced them all.
Rewiring the X2 Plug.
I have finished soldering all the connectors back onto the wires for the X2 plug. Here is a run down of what I have done to reattach them to the plug.
1. Heat-shrink and wrap each repair with electrical tape.
2. Mark all the wires with the number of the hole they go to in the X2 plug.
3. Starting with the big wires, push the wires through the blue part into the black part, waiting for the click to denote they are fully home. (if you have dismantled the plug ensure you have put the locking plate back between the blue and the black part, inside the connector. Starting with the large wires helps hold the plug in place while you do the small wires.)
Above on the right is the locking plate.
4. Give the wires a good tug to ensure they are properly seated into the plug.
5. Using a small screwdriver, push the rubber sealing grommet into the blue portion so they are well sealed.
6. Repeat steps 3-5 for the medium wires.
7. Repeat again for the small wires and then test each pin on the X2 plug with a multi tester to ensure the repairs are still sound. As the ports in the ECU plug are very small and recessed, use a small safety pin to insert into the plug to touch the leads onto.
7a. If you look inside the ECU plug you can see that the rows are numbered with moulded in characters, but they are very small.
8. Push the Red Locking tab into the connector to move the locking plate against the wires to prevent them being pulled out.
9. Most of the wires have some memory in them from before so try not to force them and let them lay naturally from the loom to the plug. Try not to twist them around each other.
10. Ensure the wires are split around the central column where the screw is otherwise the cover wont go on.
11. Wrap the bunch of wires in loom tape as tightly packed as you can and then cable tie the lot to the blue part. You will see an extension on the blue part where the bunch sits in and there are channels for the cable ties to go round.
12. Replace the cover noting that the cover has a ring that goes around the wires.
13. Wrap the exposed loom in loom tape and then add the cable armour.
14. Wrap the whole lot from the X2 plug back to the loom casing in loom tape.
15. Seal any gaps around the blue part and the cover with silicone sealant to prevent water ingress.
If everything checks out OK, the loom is now ready to be fitted back onto the car.
Note: You could use steps 3-8 to add options to your loom.
Well done! You must really like the car to go to this effort.
Do you do this sort of thing for a living?
They're there, in their room.
Thanks Dan. I love my Astra to bits, I have had it since it was a year and a half old. I have done 147,000 miles in it now and its only let me down 3 times. Once was the battery, once was the front left abs sensor and this time was the power sounder. I have considered changing it in the past to another hot hatch like a Focus but I don't like how they drive and I think the SRI is more of a drivers car than people realise. It doesn't have the power of some of the newer fare but its does have really good roll on power on dual carriageways and it handles well.
I was an Engineer for 17 years or so and them moved into Web Design which I do freelance now, got fed up of being made redundant from manufacturing so went to going it alone. Been a race driver for a while too in Formula Ford but haven't for the last 4 years as the economics at the moment kill sponsorship....sigh...
Superb stuff. I really should take my power sounder apart and remove the batteries or replace. What have you done with the power sounder side of yours, since you, er, have no power sounder now...?
My Mk4 is one of my favourite cars too, superb build quality and handling compared to the mk3 and feels more connected to the mk2 than the mk3 somehow.
They're there, in their room.
With the power sounder, I have rewired in the portion of the loom it needs and I will probably leave it like that until I can get hold of another one and then when I have a spare weekend with some decent weather, I will put it back on. I want to do some other things first though. I have a few stone chips and a scrape on my air dam I want to respray. I am also starting to get a very tiny bit of rust around the filler cap which needs sorting.
Took me ages to find the Astra, there wasn't many for sale at the time and my one was in Norfolk so I had to go and get it. It is well built all the sills and stuff are still solid as a rock and there is no rust underneath at all. I have seen 3 year old Honda's with rust on the arches and I think the Astra is on par quality wise with a BMW easily. But then I think they were made in Germany anyway.
I like the Mk4, one of the best looking cars made, I prefer them to the new ones even, although a VXR would be nice one day. If I do that I will still keep this one and turn it into a race car I think.
I didn't like the Mk3 at all, looked a bit jelly mould and too round. My friend has one and it is a bit soft and squidgy. I had one of the Mk2 GTE's and it did feel a lot like the SRI. More like what a hot hatch should be.
I am now doing an image of the whole loom which I will post up later on.
Here is the image of the overall front body loom.
Drivers Side:
Passenger Side:
This is for an Astra SRI 2.0 16v 1998-99 with Cruise Control, ABS + Traction Control but without Aircon.
Inside the Car.
Today I have taken the glove box and fan out to check the other side of the bulkhead plug and my worst fears are confirmed. The heat has travelled through and melted some of the wires on the other side. About 4 are melted but the rest are intact and OK.
You can just see them beside the white and yellow wires with the tape round them, in the middle of the image.
Oh well will have to remove the dash loom and repair it also. Less intense the dash loom though and I am sure what I have learnt so far will help it get done more quickly. Also a bonus is that I can work inside the car where its warm.
Anyway here are the steps I took to remove and get to the inside plug.
1. Remove screws round the glove box that hold it in. If you open the box you can see them round the edges. The bottom middle screw can be reached easier with the lid shut. These are Torx head.
2. Pull the box out carefully and disconnect the light on the right hand side.
You should now see the fan housing.
3. Remove the two large plastic quarter turn clips on the floppy panel under the dash by turning with a large flat screwdriver and pull it out from the white clips at the rear on the bulkhead.
3. You can see in this image the rectangular hole on the right where I have extracted the pollen filter and on the left the fan unit.
4. To remove the pollen filter because we may as well while we are here and clean it, undo the two self tappers holding it in. Remove the cover and the screws and pull out the filter. It will go past the fan as its paper.
5. Here is the filter. It will be messy and full of twigs and leaves and insects and maybe a spider if you are lucky.
6. Moving on to the fan unit.
7. There are six screws holding it up. These are odd sized heads as they are self tappers and not bolts. A 6mm socket will not do it as it turns the heads. I have found a Torx socket, I cant remember if its an e8 or e10, fits perfectly.
8. There is one screw on the back right of the housing, two at the front, one on the left which you can just get by moving the loom and removing the white clip and two underneath. You can just about get a half inch drive extension into the space for each screw with a Torx socket on the end and use it as a screwdriver. You may have to squish the bulkhead foam down a bit to angle the extension bar correctly.
9. The housing splits along the join, which you can feel, note the sealant in the groove, pull down and forward and swing the fan round to the right and rest it on the glove box bottom rail. You don't have to take the heater duct and the recirculation off like the Haynes manual says unless you want to repair those particular parts.
10. You will now be able to see the cover on the bulkhead plug. Peel the cover off from the right. Its is quite flexible.
11. You will now have access to the bulkhead connector.
Notes: As I was here I took a picture of the passenger air bag in case its useful to anyone.
My next task is to find out how far the damage has gone up. If it isn't too far I will splice in new wires without removing the loom, soldering them inside the car.
My word. Are you sure the wire insulation hasn't just softened and distorted a bit? I really wouldn't fancy taking a Mk4 dash out, but... good luck and many pics if you do!
They're there, in their room.
I wish it were just that, but the insulation has charred and the bare wires are touching each other. I don't fancy it either but if the damage goes further than I can get at through the glove box I may have to. I will of course take some pics of it all and do some instruction. Thanks for the luck I may need it!
Thankyou for posting one of the most informative and well thought out threads Ive ever read on here
The time and effort you`ve put into sorting this out is really impressive ! Definately needs to be stickied
Thanks Tom - the way I see it is I have found loads of useful info here over the years to keep my Astra running so it helps everyone if I post. If it save someone the hassle and pain I have had then its OK by me.Thankyou for posting one of the most informative and well thought out threads Ive ever read on here
The time and effort you`ve put into sorting this out is really impressive ! Definately needs to be stickied
Thanks Porkus. You sure have, I'm going to look what batteries mine has and replace them soonish.
They're there, in their room.
Today I have started removing the dash. It hasn't been as bad a job as I thought it was going to be and so far I have spent about 4 hours on it. I have got to the point where it wont be long until I can remove it.
So here goes how to remove the dash Part 1. (This is with the glovebox already removed)
1. Starting at the left remove the screws in the passenger side vent, there are three. One at the bottom (yellow) and two inside the vent at the top.
To get at the two inside the vent insert a screwdriver into the side of the bit of the vent that swivels (red arrows) and while pushing the screwdriver into the middle of the vent pull the vent off the spigot it swivels on for one side. Then repeat that for the other side of the vent. You can then pull the swivel bit of the vent out to get at the screws which are Torx.
When these 3 are undone you can pull out the vent surround. Pop the swivel bit back in so you don't lose it.
You can see the screws and spigots here:
Repeat this for the Driver side vent.
2. Using a screwdriver prise the traction control switch and its panel off the centre console and then prise the cover off the ciggie lighter. Open the ashtray and undo the screws at the top holding the ciggie lighter and ashtray panel in. (You can just see one above the lighter) Close the ashtray again to remove the panel which is held in by clips either side by pulling it out forwards. Unplug the connections for the lighter.
3. Now the ashtray panel is out remove the torx screws holding the bottom of the upper centre console into the dash.
4. Remove the storage tray by taking out the mat and then use a screwdriver to ease it out. There are 4 clips - 2 top and bottom. Pull it out forwards.
5. Remove the head unit.
6. Unclip the heater control panel by inserting a screwdriver in each of the two top clips (one either side on the bottom of the head unit hole) and leaving them there and then using your hands pull down the bottom two clips in the top of the storage tray opening and then push the heater control block back into the dash.
6. Undo the two screws beside the upper clips near the arrow. The below image shows the clips.
7. Carefully pull the bottom of the fascia panel out from the dash and then unclip it from the top above the multi info display.
The two holes are where the fascia tangs locate.
8. Unplug the MID connector from the back of the MID which is fixed to the panel. It has a swivel lock very similar to an ECU plug. To unlock depress the tang and pull the lock over.
9. To unplug the vents from the hazard light switch wiring, pull the hazard switch off and then depress the tangs to pull off the hazard switch mounting. You can then slide the connector out of the vents.
10. Here is the back of the MID in the fascia panel. It is held on by Torx screws either side.
11. Remove the crossbar by undoing the two screws (shown here removed, screw hole circled)
11a. Make sure your battery has been disconnected for at least 25 mins before this next bit.
12. Moving on to the steering wheel, set the steering wheel as low and as out as it can go and centralise. Remove the two Torx head screws holding the airbag in, they are on the back of the wheel, remove and disconnect the airbag unit. Place it carefully metal side down somewhere safe so it doesn't injure anyone accidentally. They are exceedingly dangerous if they go off by accident.
13. The airbag has a special connector. To unclip pull up the lock as shown below.
14. Unplug the connections for the stereo controls and the two horn buttons.
15. Using a Torx socket undo the bolt holding the steering wheel on. Making sure the steering lock is on helps...sigh....
16. Carefully, so as not to damage the wires, pull the steering wheel off the column. As I have removed mine before it didn't need a puller but you may have too if its stiff. Don't sit and do it as it will come off and smack you square in the face.
17. Remove the Torx screw from the bottom of the lower steering cowl and then remove the two crosshead screws in the front of the steering cowls that were behind the steering wheel.
18. Remove the knob from the column adjuster and replace the screw back in the shaft so you don't lose it. Take out the key if its in.
19. Remove the upper cowling.
20. Undo the two Torx screws inside the lower cowling (yellow circled) and remove the cowling and rubber slip ring bit for the ignition key so as not to lose it.
21. All the connections for the indicator and wash-wipe stalks are secured with locks, these are either yellow or red. You can pull then out with a small screwdriver and then undo the plugs. To remove the stalks depress the clips as shown above arrowed in yellow, there is 2 on each stalk, and pull the stalks out.
22. This should now be all the steering wheel and stalks removed.
23. Removing the instrument panel.
24. Pop out the two covers either side of the instrument panel cowling to access the Torx screws. There is one either side of the steering column. Undo these two screws and also undo the two in the top of the cowling. Remove the cowl by twisting it 90 degrees forward and pulling out from the left. It is luckily quite flexible and will need to be pushed and pulled to get it out. Can be quite awkward.
25. You can now access the instrument panel.
26. To remove the binnacle, undo the two screws circled in yellow and also move the swing clip at the top to the left to disengage it from the plug. Pull the binnacle out as you did for the cowling. It is awkward and only just fits to come out.
27. To remove the plug for access pull the large white bracket of the dash and unclip the plug from the bracket by forcing it sideways and pulling it out to the left of what is shown below.
28. Removing the headlight and fog switches is difficult. It is all one unit that is a large plug. First you have to remove the headlight switch. To remove it stick a small screwdriver into the hole in the bottom of the headlight switch to depress the tang and pull the switch off.
29. The hard bit..... Insert two small screwdrivers into the slots either side of the spindle the light switch goes onto and push the clips aside and extract the switch module complete from the dash. If you have already removed the screws for the driver side vent at the top you can carefully pull the surround out at the top to see the clips you have to depress.
You can see one of the clips on the side here.
30. Undo the screw circled below and you can then remove the whole surround.
Notes: Part 2 coming soon once I have done some more. Also to remove the shroud the interior loom sits in where the glovebox is, pull the shroud off the clips on the passenger airbag mount and then release the cable ties on the shroud and then undo the 5 clips holding the shroud together. Its a bit like a large pitta bread and can be unfolded off the loom wires.
Heater Panel and Plug
Steering Wheel removed to show Airbag Squib ring
Last edited by porkus; 24-05-2012 at 20:05. Reason: Added more images
I would Dan and everyone else who has a sounder too, might save your car or all the hassle I am having. I am strangely enjoying it all though. Gives me something to do when I am not working.
Remove Dash Part 2.
Today I have spent a further 1.5 hours removing the dash and have now taken it off.
1. Remove the sill cover next to the bonnet release. To do this pull up the inner sill cover beside the seat and undo the Torx screw on the cover and pull the cover out carefully. While there remove the larger Torx screw holding the bottom of the Dash on just above it.
2. Repeat for the Passenger side
3. Open the doors and prise out the covers for the screws on each side of the dash and remove the screw, again a Torx.
4. Prise out the window vent, there is several clips all the way along. Once you have a few out you can peel it off.
5. Undo the three screws under the window vent
6. Unplug the large green connector and remove the earth strap for the dash loom on the passenger side footwell.
7. Remove the centre console. There is two screws either side of the console in the footwell, one under the handbrake and two on the sides near the rear of the console. You can see the stay beside the handbrake mount below. Note the SRS unit behind the handbrake.
8. Undo the two screws holding the dash to the brackets inside the centre console on the tunnel. One each side.
9. Unplug the aerial. Its behind the gear knob.
10. Unbolt the diagnostic port bracket and remove the plug from the bracket.
11. Unplug the SRS unit, again an ECU style plug with a swivel catch.
12. Unplug the Handbrake switch
13. Unlatch the SRS and Diagnostic conduit from the tunnel.
14. Remove the floppy cover underneath the dash on the drivers side and passenger side if not done already and then unclip the drivers side footwell air duct.
15. Unscrew the stay on the fuse holder. There are two. The stay is shown here at the front with the screws removed. Depress the tangs on the grey housing and push the housing up into the dash.
16. Unbolt the earth strap on the cross member.
17. Remove the plug from the clutch pedal. It just pulls out to the right.
18. Unplug the brake pedal connection.
19. Remove the airbag squib off the steering column. It has two clips at the top and two that go through holes.
20. Remove the bulb testing module and trailer bulb relay plug from behind the passenger airbag. Its all on a bracket and just unclips. Unplug the passenger airbag. By now you should be able to pull the dash out to ease access.
21. Remove the sprung lower steering column shroud. It pulls out forwards and is not easy to do. You will have to feed it past the control stalk connectors.
22. Disconnect the plug next to the pollen filter housing.
22a. Unclip the various loom casings and conduits from the back of the dash to separate the loom from the dash.
23. You should now, after unplugging the bulkhead connector, be able, if I haven't forgotten anything, to remove the dash. Its easier if you have a helper. At the very least you can move it onto the seats to be able to work behind it. This is what I am going to do. Rather than remove the loom from the dash to prevent routing mistakes, I am going to do soldering repairs in-situ. Please excuse the mess in my car.....that isn't product placement for tobacco.
Notes.
A. A lot easier than I was expecting, seemed less daunting than I imagined. Makes it easier as you can sit and do most of it in comfort.
B. Some bits are awkward but nothing major.
C. Easier than getting the engine loom out.
D. Could be done in a day. Out and in again over a weekend.
E. Thanks wife for the help and support.
F. One of the windscreen side dash brackets.
G. See the next post on how to remove the bulkhead plug from the inside of the car.
Last edited by porkus; 03-06-2012 at 21:11. Reason: Steps 22a & Note G added. Updated Step 20.
www.anodisedblue.com
Just thought I would post a pic of my Astra in happier times.
www.anodisedblue.com
How to remove the interior side of the X2 Bulkhead Plug.
To remove the bulkhead connector, the white one inside the car that goes onto the blue one in the engine bay:
1. Ensure the glove box and heater are out if not already. This will only work if you take the blue bulkhead connector off first.
2. Working from the engine bay, insert 3 flat bladed screwdrivers into the clips ( put them in between the bulkhead lip and the clips so the clips are depressed in towards the centre of the plug) and then go into the footwell and give it a good wiggle and tug.
3. The plug should pull free from the bulkhead fairly easily. If it doesn't make sure the clips are fully depressed.
www.anodisedblue.com
Decided against working in the car. Too awkward and I also want to do a connection diagram and plug images for the dash loom like I did for the engine one.
Here is the dash completely out.
www.anodisedblue.com
Here are the Pin outs for the Multi Timer Plug.
This plug is located within the back of the fuse box in the drivers storage compartment.
It is slotted into the back of the fuse box and slides out.
As before this is for an Astra SRI 2.0 SRI 1998-99 with Traction, ABS and Cruise.
1
2 Black-Blue - Light Switch - Rear Fogs
3 Black-Yellow - Wiper Switch
4 Black-White - Heating Controls - AC
5 Blue - Hazard Light Switch
6 Black-Red - Windscreen Washer - Wiper Switch
7
8 Black-White - Hazard Light Switch
9 Yellow - Fuse 10amp
10 Black-Yellow - Central Door Locking
11 Blue-Red - ABS - ESP
12 Black-Red - Central Door Locking
13 Black-White - Central Door Locking
14 Grey - X1 Plug - Drivers Door Contact Switch
15 Blue - X1 Plug - Drivers Door Contact Switch
16
17 Black-Green - Light Switch - Frt Fogs
18 Black-Yellow - Switch Wiper Unit
19 Black-White - Steering Column
20 Black-Green - Steering Column
21 Black-Grey - Windscreen Washer
22
23 White-Green - Instruments
24
25 Black - Fuse 10amp - Hazard Light Switch
26 Red - Fuse 7.5amp
27 Grey-Black - Light Switch - Dimmer
28 Grey - Light Switch - Courtesy Light?
29
30
31 Red - Fuse 15amp - Hazard Light Switch
32 Brown - Earth
33 Grey - X1 - Interior Lamp
34 Grey-Yellow - Instrument - Lighter - Heating - TC - TID - MID - AC - Stereo
35
36
37 Red - Fuse 15amp - Hazard Light Switch
38 Grey-Green - Fuse 7.5amp
www.anodisedblue.com
Dashboard Loom Plugs
Diagnostic Plug Pin Outs:
1.
2.
3. Brown-White - Stereo - CD Changer - Phone - Nav
4. Brown - Earth
5. Brown - Earth
6. Brown-Yellow - ECU
7. Brown-White - Immob - ABS - ESP - Steering
8.
9.
10.
11.
12. Brown-White - Instrument - Central Locking - Multi Displays - Airbag - Cruise - GPS - Nav - Phone - Engine Cooling
13.
14.
15. Red - Fuse 7.5amp
16.
Stereo Plug Pinouts
1. Blue-Red - Radio Remote Control
2. Red - Fuse 7.5amp
3. Grey-Yellow - Multi Timer Plug
4. Brown - Earth
5. Blue-Red - ABS - ESP
6. Black - Phone
7. Red-White - Remote Ctrl - X1 Plug - Displays - CD Changer
8. Red - Fuse 20amp
9. Brown-White - Speaker RR
10. Brown-Yellow - Speaker FR
11. Brown-Blue - Soeaker FL
12. Brown Green - Speaker RL
13. White - Speaker RR
14. Yellow - Speaker FR
15. Blue - Speaker FL
16. Green - Speaker RL
17. Brown-Red - Multi Displays
18. Brown-Grey - Multi Displays
19. Brown-White - Diagnostic Link
20. Black - CD Changer
21. Yellow - CD Changer
22. Brown-Black - Multi Displays
23. Blue - Phone
24. White - CD Changer
25. Green - CD Changer
26. White - CD Changer
Cd Multi Changer Plug Pins
1. White 0.35 Radio, Carphone, Nav
2. Brown 0.5 Earth
3. Red 0.5 or Red/White 0.35 - If Red Fuse 20amp - If Red/White Radio.
4. Red/White 0.5 or Brown/White 0.35 - If Red/White Radio/Carphone - If Brown/White Diagnostic Link
5. White 0.5 Radio, Nav, Phone
6. White 0.5 Radio, Nav, Phone
7. Green 0.35 Radio, Nav, Phone
8. Brown 0.5 Earth
9. Red 0.5 Fuse 20amp
10. Brown 0.35 Earth
11. Yellow 0.5 Radio, Nav, Phone
12. Yellow 0.5 Radio, Nav, Phone
Spare Plugs above for heated seat switches
Last edited by porkus; 09-06-2012 at 09:49. Reason: Added More Connectors
www.anodisedblue.com
X1 Plug Pin outs
1 Red/Blue 1.5 X2 Plug 91
2 Blue 1.5 Back Window Wiper Relay Pin 4
3 Black/Blue 0.5 Seat Heating Switch Right Pin 5
4 Brown/Green 0.5 Bonnet Switch X2 Pin 2
5 Black/White 0.75 Heated Mirror Relay Pin 4
6 Brown/Green 0.75 Radio Pin 12
7 Green 0.75 Raido Pin 16
8 Brown/Yellow 0.75 Radio Pin 10
9
10 Brown/Black Warning Buzzer + Instruments Pin 12
11 Yellow 0.75 Radio Pin 14
12 Black/Green 0.5 Seat Heating Switch Left Pin 5
13 Black/Yellow 0.5 Seat Heating Switch Right Pin 2
14 Black/Red 0.5 Seat Heating Switch Left Pin 2
15 Blue/Black 0.5/0.35 Instrument Panel Pin 25 + MID Pin 26 + Graphic Display Pin 26
16 Black/White 0.35 Multi timer Pin 13
17 Brown/Red 0.5/0.75 Power Sounder X2 16
18 White/Black X2 Plug Pin 3 + Pin 4 Nav Plug
19 Black/Green 0.5 Turn Signal Lamps + X2 Plug Pin 19 + Warning Light Indicator Right + Instruments Pin 8 + Indicator Relay
20 Blue 0.35 Multi timer Pin 15
21 Black/Blue Rear Fog Lamp Relay Pin 4
22 Grey/Black 0.75 Bulb Check Pin 9
23 Grey/Green 0.5 Airbag ECU Plug Pin 39
24 Grey/Red 0.75 Bulb Check Pin 10
25 Black/Yellow 0.75 Bulb Test Pin 16
26 Green 0.5 Airbag ECU Plug Pin 41
27 Green/White 0.5 Airbag ECU Plug Pin 42
28 Grey/Green 0.5 Fuse 7.5amp Driver Compartment
29 Gray 0.35 Multi timer Pin 14
30 Black/Yellow 0.75 Check Control + Stop Lamp Switch
31 Black/Yellow 0.75 Pin 8 Bulb Test
32 White 0.75 Radio Pin 13
33 Brown/Red 0.75 X2 Pin 55 ATWS Horn and Horns + Telephone
34 Grey/Red 0.75 Fuse 10amp + X2 Plug Pin 32 + Bulb Check Pin 13
35 Grey/Black 0.75 X2 Plug Pin 21 + 10amp Fuse.
36 Brown/Red X2 Plug Pin 26
37 Blue/Red X2 Plug Pin 29
38 Blue/Black 0.5 Airbag ECU Plug
39 Red 0.75 Fuse F2 60amp
40 Red/White 0.5 Head Unit Pin 7/8 + Navigation Unit Plug Pin 3 (via Red 0.5) + Remote Control + CD Changer + Phone Pin 2
41 Brown/Violet 0.35 Hazard Lights
42 Grey 0.5 Airbag ECU Plug Pin 44
43 Grey/White 0.5 Airbag ECU Plug Pin 43
44 Black/White 0.35 Diagnostic Link Pin 12
45 Blue-0.5-Airbag ECU Plug Pin 13
46 Blue/White 0.5 Airbag ECU Plug Pin 14
47 Blue/Red 0.5 Airbag ECU Plug Pin 11
48 Blue/Green 0.5 Airbag ECU Plug Pin 10
49 Brown 0.5 X2 Plug Pin 35
50 Blue 0.5 X2 Plug Pin 28
51 Black/Yellow 0.5 Multimer Pin 10
52
53 Black/Yellow 0.75 Trailer Bulb Test Pin 6
54 Black/Red 0.5 Multimer Pin 12
55 Brown/White 0.75 Radio Pin 9
56 Black 0.5 Airbag ECU Plug Pin 5 and Ignition Voltage
57 Brown/White 0.5 Airbag ECU Plug Pin 9
58 Red/White 0.5 Airbag ECU Plug Pin 8
59 Brown/Yellow 0.5 Airbag ECU Plug Pin 15
60 Red/Yellow 0.5 Airbag ECU Plug Pin 45
61 Brown/Blue Radio Pin 11
62 Green/Brown 0.35/0.5 Phone Pin 14 + Pin 28 Head Unit
63 Green/Brown 0.35/0.5 Phone
64 Blue 0.75 Radio Pin 19
65 Black/White 0.5 Turn Signal Lamps Left + Turn Signal Relay Drivers Compartment + X2 Plug Pin 12 + Instrument Light Pin 9
66 Grey 0.5 Multitimer Pin 33
67 Blue/Red 0.35/0.5 Telephone Pin 18
68 Brown/Violet 0.35 Immobiliser Pin 1
69
70 Red 0.5 Fuse F1.21 7.5amp Driver Compartment
71 Red 2.5 Fuse 20amp
72 Red 2.5 Fuse 30amp
73 Black 4.0 Heated Back Window Relay Pin 8 + Heating Control Plug
74 Black/Violet 1.5 Wiper Stalk Pin 4 + 30amp fuse + X2 Pin 76 + Windscreen Wiper Relay Pin 8 + Rear Wiper Relay Pin 5
75 Red 2.5 Windows Fuse 30amp
76 Red 0.5 Fuse 7.5amp + Diagnostic Link Pin 16
77 Black 0.5 Fuse F1.15 7.5amp Driver Compartment
78 Red 2.5 Fuse F2.11 20amp Driver Compartment
79 Red 1.5 Fuse 30amp
80 Black 1.5 Fuse 20amp Drivers Compartment
www.anodisedblue.com
X2 Plug Dashboard Side Pins.
Layout same as Engine Bulkhead plug but mirrored
1 Blue 0.35 Instruments Pin 28 + Info Displays Pin 31
2 Brown/Green 0.5 X1 Plug Pin 4
3 White/Black 0.75 X1 Plug Pin 18 + Pin 4 Nav Plug
4 Blank
5 Black 0.75 10amp Fuse
6 Brown/Yellow 0.35 Instruments Pin 10
7 Brown 0.5 Instruments Pin 2 + Immob Pin 4
8 Brown/Blue 0.5 Instruments Pin 34
9 Blue/White 0.35 X2 Plug Pin 61 + Instruments Pin 16
10 Blue/Green 0.35 Instruments Pin 33 Oil Pressure Light
11 Black/Yellow 0.75 Cruise Switch Pin D
12 Black/White 0.75 Turn Signal Left Relay Pin 5 or Turn Signal Lamp Relay Shielded Pin 8 + Instruments Pin 9 Turn Sig Lamp L
13 Black/Red 0.5 Brake Lamp Switch
14 Black/Yellow 0.5 Stop Lamp Switch
15 Brown/White 0.5 Diagnostic Link Pin 12
16 Brown/Red 0.5/0.75 X1 Plug 17
17 Black/Brown 0.75 Cruise Switch Pin C
18 Red 0.75 Fuse 60amp
19 Black/Green 0.75 Turn Signal Right Relay Pin 5 or Turn Signal Lamp Relay Shielded Pin 3 + Instruments Pin 8 Turn Sig Lamp R
20 Brown/Green 0.75 Info Display Pin 13
21 Grey/Black 0.75 Fuse 10amp + Pin 11 Bulb Test + Pin 35 X1 plug
22 Brown/Blue 0.35 Info Display Pin 20
23 Black/Brown 0.35 Info Display Pin 27
24 Brown/Yellow 0.5 Info Display Pin 22
25 Grey/Green 0.75 Fuse 10amp
26 Black/Red 0.75 Wiper Switch Pin 3 + Multimer Pin 6 + X2 Pin 57
27 Blank
28 Blue 0.5 X1 Plug Pin 50
29 Blue/Red 0.5 X1 Plug Pin 37
30 Brown/Green 0.35 Instruments Pin 13
31 Black/Red 0.5 Pin 3 TC Switch
32 Grey/Red 0.75 Fuse 10amp + Pin 13 Bulb Test + Pin 34 X1 Plug
33 Brown/White 0.5 Diagnostic Plug Pin 7 + Immob Pin 6
34 Brown/White 0.5 Pin 35 Instruments + Handbrake Switch Pin B
35 Brown 0.5 X1 Plug Pin 49
36 Brown/Red 0.5 X1 Plug Pin 36
37 Blank
38 Black/Yellow 0.75 Stop Lamp Switch
39 Blue 0.35 Info Display Pin 3
40 Blank
41 Blue/White 0.35 Info Display Pin 2
42 Blank
43 Blank
44 Blank
45 Blank
46 Brown/White 0.35 Immob Plug Pin 7
47 Blank
48 Black/Grey 1 Wiper Switch Pin 7 + Multitimer Pin 21
49 Blank
50 Blank
51 Blank
52 Blank
53 Grey 0.5 Clutch Switch Pin 2
54 Blank
55 Brown/Red 0.75 X1 Plug 33
56 Yellow/Red Info Display Pin 19
57 Wiper Switch Pin 3 + Multimer Pin 6 + X2 Pin 26
58 Brown/Yellow 0.75 Light Switch
59 Red 1 X2 Plug Pin 99 via 1.5 fuse spur.
60 Blank
61 Blue/White 0.5 Check Light Pin 16 Instruments
62 Blue/Red 0.5 Multimer Pin 11 + Instruments Pin 27 + Warning Buzzer Pin 2 + TID Pin 9 + MID Pin 12 + Color Info Display Pin 12 + Radio Pin 5 + Nav Module Pin 5 + Phone Plug Pin 3
63 Green 0.5 Instruments Pin 20 RPM + MID Pin 6
64 Brown/Yellow 0.35 Diagnostic Plug Pin 6
65 Blank
66 Black 0.75 10amp Fuse + Cruise Switch Pin B
67 Blank
68 Blank
69 Blank
70 Blank
71 Blank
72 Blank
73 Green 1.5 Wiper Relay Pin 5
74 White 1.5 Wiper Switch Pin 2
75 Yellow 1.5 Wiper Switch Pin 5
76 Black/Violet 1.5 Wiper Relay Pin 8 + Wiper Switch Pin 4 + 30amp Fuse + X1 Plug Pin 74 + Rear Wipe Relay Pin 5
77 Black 0.75 10amp Fuse + Indicator Stalk + Light Switch + Hazards + Glove Box Light.
78 Red/Brown 1.5 Pin 4 Horn Relay
79 Yellow 1.5 Pin 14 Bulb Test
80 Yellow 1.5 Pin 15 Bulb Test
81 White 1.5 10amp Fuse + Pin 17 Instruments
82 White 1.5 10amp Fuse
83 Red 2.5 Fuse 30amp
84 Blank
85 Blank
86 Blank
87 Black 0.75 Fuse 10amp
88 Blank
89 Blank
90 Blank
91 Red/Blue 1.5 X1 Plug Pin 1
92 Blank
93 Black 1.5 Pin 4 Frt Fog Lamp Relay + Pin 11 Instruments.
94 Brown 2.5 Earth
95 Black/Red 2.5 Igntion Switch Pin 50
96 Black 2.5 Airbag Pin 5 + Immob + Ignition Pin 15 + X1 Plug Pin 56 + Fuses 7.5amp, 30amp, 7.5amp, 10amp, 10amp, 10amp, 10amp, 20amp, 10amp, 7.5amp.
97 Blank
98 Black/Yellow 6.0 Fuses.
99 Black/Red 6.0 Fuses, High Beam Relay, Light Switch, Power Sounder, Central Locking, Immob.
100 Black 6 Ignition Switch Pin 30
www.anodisedblue.com
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
