Mk3 astra Complete 5-stud Conversion guide

[zetec]

After copious amounts of searching and not being able to find one, I have decided to do a step-by-step 5-stud conversion guide for the Mk3 astra.

Shopping list
1. Cavalier V6 / Cavalier Turbo Front suspension Legs, Complete with callipers, carriers & Discs, 284mm & 288mm Variants
2. Cavalier V6 Complete rear hubs, Callipers & discs 260mm
3. Astra front struts & springs
4. Astra strut tops
5. 4 x more wheel bolts

Before i started the conversion i did a little preventative maintenance, i had new front bearings fitted to both front legs before fitting, it COULD also be advisable to budget for 2 x wishbones & track rod ends - depending on previous condition OR damage whilst removing.

Tools
BIG HAMMER!
Spanners 11mm / 13mm / 19mm
Sockets 13mm / 15mm / 19mm / 30mm
Pliers & needle-nose
brake hose clamps
ball joint splitter
Pinch bar
screwdrivers Flat & phillips
9/10mm Brake pipe spanner (rears)
wire brush
copper grease
Trolley jack / Ramps & axle stands

STEP 1
my conversion was done on a 2 post car ramp, but for those who dont have access to one then a suitable trolley jack & axle stands are required,
Starting with the rears!
Original 4-Stud

1. with the car Jacked up & supported & the handbrake off, the 1st job was to remove Handbrake cable & spring (retina the springs for the new hubs)


2. Next is to remove the ABS sensor plug, on the older cars this can be brittle so be
careful not to snap the retaining clip.


3. Remove the 2 x Rear brake pipes ( be prepared for spillage )

4. The complete Rear hub is held onto the rear axle with 4 x 15mm nuts, 3 of these are accessed easily with an extension bar on the ratchet, the rearmost lower bolt is slightly trickier but still accessible


5. once these bolts are removed, the handbrake cable is detached & the brake pipes are disconnected the full rear hub assenbly should just lift off, and you will be left with >



RE-FIT

old on the right (red) New on the left (gold) there virtually exactly the same apart from the obvious extras bolt hole. these rear hubs have been dismantled, checked adjusted & painted before fitting, the discs & callipers were all bolted on to ease fitting.


1. apply copper grease to the studs on the rear of the hubs

2. Fit new hubs onto your back axle using the 15mm nuts ( it is advisable to hook the handbrake cable onto the lever before lining the bolts up as its a little tight)


3. Re-fit handbrake return spring


4. Re fit the 2 rear brake pipes, (you will notice the new callipers have the brake pipe fitting on the bottom, where the old had the fitting on the top) this was easily solved by swapping the 2 callipers over as they are interchangeable and leaving the brake fittings in the same place as the old callipers



Fitted

5. once your brake fittings are checked, all the bolts torqued up & cables / plugs are all checked your DONE !

　

[zetec]

now for the fronts...

Front original 256mm Setup



1. Using apropriate Brake hose crimps or mole grips (NOT TOO TIGHT) clamp the forn brake hose 3-4" from the calliper to reduce Fluid loss

2. using either a spanner OR socket (11mm) remove the front brake hose from the calliper (have something ready to catch the fluid) and dont lose the copper washers


3. next is the Calliper retaining bolts 10mm Allen key bolts 2 each side



4. ABS sensor removal, 6/7mm allen key there is 1 bolt holind the sensor to the bracket & 1 holding the bracket to the front leg, there is a 99% chance the little plastic retaining pin will snap on removal but this isnt a problem.

5. once the calliper is removed, and only if fitted the front disc retaining screws the fornt discs can be removed



6. next is the track-rod end ball joints, it is probably best to use a "cup" type splitter on these to reduce damage to the rubber boot when removing, 19mm nuts





7. Remove the Drive shaft securing nut 30mm & split pin, renew the split-pin when refitting, alot easier with air tools OR make this the 1st jobs by getting a friend to help by pressing the brake pedal to help loosen the nut

8. Next job is the Lower ball-joint, Always the hardest one to split.. only made easier with a long pinch bar and copious ammounts of swearing & hammering
9. once the lower ball joint has been split you can now remove the 2 x 13mm nuts holding the strut top into the turret.


10. and with a bit of a wiggle the whole unit will come out ! and you'll be left with


REFIT:
The setup i had was already fitted with the struts & springs from an astra, but for those which aren't it is basically the astra Strut - Spring & strut top that gets fitted to the cavalier leg.
fitting is a complete reversal of removal
1. refit the complete leg holding in place with the top 2 13mm nuts (loose)
2. fit the drive shaft into the new hub using the original thrust washer / nut & a new split pin !
3. fit the bottom ball joint back into the leg
4. next is the track rod end ball-joint

5. then the ABS sensor

]

6. if not already fitted it's time for the calliper & disc
7. refit the front brake hose making sure the copper washers are intact & in the same position as when taken off
8. make sure the bleed nipple is tight and release the brake hose clamp
9. Check all nuts & bolts are tight ad all cables & hoses are cable tied out of the way
10. fit your chosen 5-stud alloy wheels
11. with all brake work a full system bleed will be required before driving !!
12. Sit back & enjoy your hard work





i hope this helps anyone who wants to do the conversion like me !

Simon

[scooby-KILLER]

have you done a guide on the front leg/hub disasemblie/assemblie?, good effort chap