Car won't start - indicators on full time

[Andy K]

I've got another couple somewhere in the garage, I'll just swap em over.

I meant drill holes and laquer the replacement one.

Try and test it first though.

[MSG]

No it isn't, the car won't start.

yup, I know what you mean, but its doing its prime job of immobilising or in other words its a fail safe thing whose prime job is to prevent theft and starting or not starting is a secondary issue in my opinion, though I know how inconvinient it can be when things go wrong, but better to be safe than sorry.

[Andy K]

it was also leaving the indicators stuck on.

I guess vaux designed it to do that, to give you a flat battery, so a thief couldn't start it.

[MSG]

I guess you are right you could look at it both ways.

[Violet]

I can remember I sorted this by replacing the wiring loom completely, and I got a new alarm/immobiliser ECU. It cured the problem whatever I did!

How does this box work - does it interact with just the turning of the key in the door? I've checked the wiring diagram and it doesn't seem to do that much, but one of the wires from the FPR fuse 2 goes into it, and then out into the connector that goes to the fuel pump.

I'm currently encountering the -same- problem but on a different car (C14SE engine) - although I don't have an alarm ECU in place. Will putting one of these in 'bridge' the wiring to the fuel pump? There is also a brown/red wire going from the FPR connector to B4 pin on the C14SE ECU. I think the ECU grounds when it feels like it wants to (when there isn't a problem etc) as earthing the brown/red wire powers the fuel pump.
Would this be a case of the ECU not allowing the fuel to run because it senses a problem with the engine (like a fault code)? I think the crank sensor is on it's way out.

I've ran the car fine with the fuel pump test-powered up (bypassing relay), it runs but it's rough and won't idle - as if something isn't working right. Car hasn't been run for five years, but other than that everything works (belt/pump/oil/tensioner/plug/ICV, etc etc changed for new ones).

[MSG]

I think your running issues may be to do with how long it has been sitting idle, wouldn't think it has anything to do with your bypassing, provided you are bypassing the relay or energising it correctly through the brown/red wireand there is one other wire input (usually there are two inputs to FPR) as each one brings on a relay, there are two seperate relays inside the FPR, then this would make sure that all the contacts are switched on correctly as one of the contacts also supplies power to the MAF sensor, and the Oxygen sensor, and as wella s the injectors, and may be one or two other sensors.

(regards to your question about what does that little black box do, i am not sure what it does.)

[Violet]

C20XE relays have two in them, the C14SE only has a single coil inside it's relay! I am close to getting it done, but just need to work out how that black box works.
I wasn't saying the relay and the running were related, I can sort the running out when I get the fuel pump working as I currently have wires everywhere in the car!