I've got a knocking coming from the passenger side front wheel.
I've had thefront end up in the air to try and see what was knocking. Turns out there is a fair bit of play in the wheel! Everything is tight. Recently replaced shocks, springs, bottom arms and drop links. Checked them and they are all in tact.
As I turn the road wheel by grabbing the play seems to be round the cv joint. Could this be causing it?
Cheers
Lets Play Carpenter, First We'll Get Hammered, Then I'll Nail You
is the noise coming all the time when driving or only when turning, however it still appears to be related to the cv joint, provided your wheel bearing has no play in it.
Our future lies in the past, we can learn from the past to forcast our future,
What sort of knock?
when does it happen specifically?
Is the insert tight into the strut, that cuases a proper knock if you get it wrong and you mentioned that you have only just changed the shocks.
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Happens over bumps etc.
What do you mean insert? If you mean the shock yes, we made sure the big nut was as tight as it would go.
Would that cause the wheel to only be loose left and right?
Lets Play Carpenter, First We'll Get Hammered, Then I'll Nail You
Not that then if its tight, cool, thats one off the list then, lol
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You said there is a fair bit of play in the wheel, if my guess is right there shouldn't be any play in the wheel itself regardless of CV joint play, the wheel in particular shouldn't have play whatsoever, which points to bearing play, joint play in steering and suspension joints, especially the bottom joint on the arms. All these will need to be checked.
If you can't trace the problem for safety take the car to a garage and have them to look at the problem and ask them how much it will cost to put it right? once they have diagnosed the problem say TaTa to them and drive away and do the job yourself, or if their quote is reasonable then get them to fix the problem.
Last edited by MSG; 26-02-2008 at 01:08. Reason: edited for spellings
Our future lies in the past, we can learn from the past to forcast our future,
lol.
Could the cv joint have anything to do with it?
Lets Play Carpenter, First We'll Get Hammered, Then I'll Nail You
had something similar in my cav and thought it was the anti roll bar link and in actual fact it was 2 of the engine mounts were dead.
so i bought all 3 and filled them with sticky flex and guess what, it felt like a new engine and and i really felt the power delivery.
just a thought.
worn joint can make sharp clicking noises especially when turning the steering and the car is in motion, but the wheel itself should run perfect without any play, the cv joint is only a drive to the wheel and is not therefore responsible for the wheel play, the wheel play can be due to worn wheel bearings, or bearings not set right, and all other suspension components including ant-roll bar, swivel joints, track rods ball joints, suspension leg, damper, even the steering rack to some extent.Originally Posted by Dreamtripper
Really not an easy thing to diagnose without physically looking at the car and but your main point was play in the wheel, so for that i rule out cv joint.
also agree the noise can be emitted by worn engine mounts especially when you go over bumps. But don't forget are we dealing with wheel play?
Our future lies in the past, we can learn from the past to forcast our future,
It is the actual wheel that has play. Not the steering wheel.
If I grab hold of it when it is of the ground I can move it and as I do it knocks.
Also when it is on the ground if I turn the steering wheel when stationary I can hear it knock from the passenger side. When the car is moving it constantly knocks over small bumps etc.
That's the best way I can describe it.
Lets Play Carpenter, First We'll Get Hammered, Then I'll Nail You
Ruled out the possibility of a worn wheel bearings as the FWD cars have different wheel bearing set up, therefore the noise could well be the worn or loose lower swivel ball joint, or other joints, which is what is making your wheel move and as far as wheel bearings are concerned, on these FWD cars the castle nut has to be tightened real hard to a proper given torque so here the question of loose wheel bearing doesn't really arrise apart from that the bearing may have worn out excessively. Its been yonks of years since I changed a CV joint on a Nissan Sunny but have never done one on a Calibra, I guess its similar set up any way.
Last edited by MSG; 26-02-2008 at 01:17. Reason: Edited FWD cars have difefrent bearing set up.
Our future lies in the past, we can learn from the past to forcast our future,
I havn't changed them. Could changing the shocks etc have disturbed them?
How do I get to them?
Lets Play Carpenter, First We'll Get Hammered, Then I'll Nail You
If you weren't getting this noise immediately prior to these works done then my guess is that it is related to something that has been done, could well be the lower joint which may have been needed to come out, or the guy doing the job may have damaged something or straining the CV joint excessively by doing a short cut and things like that, he is not going to admit to that is he, so your best bet now is to take to another garage and ask them for their opinion. (MOT check normally figures out any problems with this sort of problems)
Last edited by MSG; 26-02-2008 at 01:22. Reason: edieted because of new information added.
Our future lies in the past, we can learn from the past to forcast our future,
I bet is the CV joint, mine did the same and I ended up replacing wishbones, rear mount, ball joints, steering arms in order to cure it. After replacing all of those items I still had that stupid noise... someone on here had the same problem and it turn out it was the CV joint, so a little later I placed the n/s/f CV Joint and guess what the knocking tapping noise was gone.
111 BHP@6,300 - 121 Ib-ft@2,500 - 3,200 from a 1400 SR with modified C14SE head, weber 32/34 on varijet inlet manifold, magnex 2" bore S/S exhaust system! Woohoo
I remember when you had that noise, you asked for any ideas, but did your wheel have a play in it like she is suggesting here.?
Our future lies in the past, we can learn from the past to forcast our future,
She? lol.
Took it to a garage today and they say the shocker is fudged.
He got his mate to hold the consertina thing that covers the piston bit and moved the wheel and you could see the piston wiggling about in the hole!!! (Through the BIG nut) Like it was on a hinge!
Lets Play Carpenter, First We'll Get Hammered, Then I'll Nail You
LOL! we all ruled that shock out because you simply stated its been recently replaced, infact Chip had asked you if the big nut was tight and you mentioned it was real tight so we ruled that possibility out, so my guess went to the lower mount whereas it turned out to be the upper mount related problem, perhaphs the recently replaced leg had been rebuild by someone and the top seal (cap with a seal ) was never fully tightened and may have fallen loose causing the damper piston to wiggle and make the wheel move.
Glad you got that sorted because the car would have been dangerous to drive in that condition .
Our future lies in the past, we can learn from the past to forcast our future,
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