No feed to fuel pump

[MSG]

Originally Posted by cyndi

help please any one

i thinks it may be the crank sensor ive already put in
how do u test this to see if ti works

Damn! I forgot to check that FPR voltage readings you took to see whats the likely cause of your problem, I am having a look now. Sorry about that delay mate.

[MSG]

Originally Posted by cyndi

to MSG

sorry its been a few days ,death in the family

right here goes i followed post 15 as good as i could,DVM black to earth then only wire i could find with 12volts on at first then went low with cranking was what looks like 85B (brown/Green),i worked out that this goes to zero volts when i here a click after about a min so must come from immobilser.

the wire which looks to me as 85 is (brown blue) 12volts when ignition off ,zero volts when ignition on .
so im not to sure if you meant 85 /85b the other way round or im wrong or cos its different.

then i checked 12v at 6 thin red ok .
then 12v at 30 thick red ok

then i didnt do the next bit 12v to 85b due to above and not wanting to mess soemthing up.

but i did crank it and get 12 at 87b and at fuse 11.

the FPR does click on off when i switch on ignition and i can here in back a thump on and off which sounds like fuel pump at same time.

hope this helps us get to the end of this road
steve

Right from the readings you have taken, it appears that everything is in order with FPR, except you mentioned pin 6 as opposed to pin 86 you should have mentioned.

But you still need to clarify a little more of this you mentioned above:

the wire which looks to me as 85 is (brown blue) 12volts when ignition off ,zero volts when ignition on .
so im not to sure if you meant 85 /85b the other way round or im wrong or cos its different.

as you mentioned above, the wire that looks coming from pin 85 of the FPR appaers to you as Brown/Green, which on my haynes manual shows Brown/white, but the colours are not the issue here as the colours may be different on your car than the haynes manual showing the colours for a Calibra .

But as soon as you switch your ignition ON, the pin 85 should go zero volts (or go low from +12v when the ignition is turned On otherwise when the ignition is off it should be at +12V)

Hence you should hear the realy click more or less immidiaetley on ignition switch being turned ON.

You then start turning the starter, this should get the ecu to send a second control signal at pin 85B which should go low from +12v and stay low for as long as the engine is being cranked and for as log as the engine is running, if the engine stalls then this pin 85B will go high to +12v.

You are getting +12v at Fuse 11, so that then feeds the +12v to the fuel pump, hence you should get a pressure along your fuel pressure rail nipple, so check if the fuel squirts out when yu push the little pin in the valve and watch out for the fuel to squirt!!


The Pin 87B goes +12 v and supplies the pump,

but Pin 87B gose +ve immediately on ignition switch in On position and should supply +12V to injectors or the common injector rail for a positive feed supply.

It also (pin 87B) supplies the Mass Air Meter, so check that you are getting a positive at pin 87 which should make all the 4 injectors get their positive 12v supply, ansd also this Mass Airfkow sensor (P44 in Haynes manual)

The Mass Air Flow sensor should get a +12V to its pin No 5 ( A red/blue wire) so check that you are getting all these with a +12v BEFORE SUSPECTING OTHER SENSORRS,

Good Luck mate, if not come back or pm me. cheers.

[MSG]

You may try this as a quick test by feeding a +12V to pins 87 and 87B, one feeds the fuel injector common positive rail and the Mass air flow meter , and the other feeds the fuel pump, so try cranking while bridging these two pins with a +12v supply directly from the battery, for safety use an inline fuse in case you have any problem with any components shorting out, then you don't want to cause a fire hazard or burnt wiring!! but this is highly unlikely going to happen unless you also had the F11 bypassed by some one who may replace that fuse with a foil!!!


So bridge the two pins and crank the engine, it should run, if it still doesn't then we are looking at other issues other vthan the FPR., so then we would be checking the Crank sensor and possibly a camshaft sensor, or if yours doesn't use a camshaft sensor then it may be the sensor in the dizzy (hall effect sensor)

[cyndi]

had loads of grief with this and not alot of time

still not running ,poor girl is just sitting there ,need to get her going

im in essex anyone good at cars want to look at it

have changed cam,crank sensor ,fuel pump relay ,fuel filter ,getting spark ok

is fuel relay the same as injector relay ???

only seem to be getting 4.4 volts on f11 now until i crank for about 20/30 secs then get 12volts for a while

i checked 12 volts at mass air meter,at egr valve and oxygen sensor

i had 12 volts at 87 but not at 87b so put 12 to this still no joy

[cyndi]

bump