Corsa brakes pants.

[gixerboyuk]

Originally Posted by daveb948576

do you all no about the load sensing valve at the back of the car its on the right hand side just above the axle with a big sring on it

i accept the challenge lol

Dont think mine has this (92/93 1.2) but has the restrictor thingies in the rear lines themselves.

Wonder what the improved master cylinder is then? As mine falls into the pre T********* chassis numbers.
Surely this would have been a re-call issue though

[RAMBIRKETT]

I had the same problem on one of my corsa's. I adjusted the rear drums, changed the servo/master cylinder on it and bleed the brakes with rear driver first, rear passenger, front passenger then front drivers last.

[gixerboyuk]

Originally Posted by sxi andy

id adjust rear brakeshoes correctly. i do this by grinding off drum lip and adjust out the shoes until with handbrake off you can just pass on the drum.they should be perfect then and give u good pedal feel so cylinders dont have to travel along way to put shoes on drums. also while ur there check the cylinders aint seeping or leaking as this will cause problems

Done this today while sorting rear bearings at same time.

Handbrake off, can just hear shoes catching
Handbrake 1 click able to just turn wheel(s) with both hands
Handbrake 2 clicks wheel(s) locked

I think i can safely assume they're pretty close to the drum surface

[RAMBIRKETT]

Originally Posted by gixerboyuk

Done this today while sorting rear bearings at same time.

Handbrake off, can just hear shoes catching
Handbrake 1 click able to just turn wheel(s) with both hands
Handbrake 2 clicks wheel(s) locked

I think i can safely assume they're pretty close to the drum surface

Sounds like you've got it spot on then

[sxi andy]

yep but are the cylinders ok pull the seals back gently and have a look. also do u have any pipes balloning when u press pedal

[daveb948576]

Originally Posted by sxi andy

id adjust rear brakeshoes correctly. i do this by grinding off drum lip and adjust out the shoes until with handbrake off you can just pass on the drum.they should be perfect then and give u good pedal feel so cylinders dont have to travel along way to put shoes on drums. also while ur there check the cylinders aint seeping or leaking as this will cause problems

done correctly hmmm i will hold you against that bearing in mind that the rear shoes have automatic adjusters on them and if working properly they will adjust them self's CORRECTLY.

[gixerboyuk]

All cylinders are dry and in good condition, might be hard pushed to see a ballooning hose as they tend to swell along their length, which as i cant discount this is the reason for the goodridges.

Know what daveb is saying as when you replace the drums, depress pedal to position and adjust the shoes and then adjust handbrake up.

Still intrigued by m/c rework/renewal though anyone any more gen on this?

[aritchie]

I will be having a go at mine if i get the car back this weekend, my brakes were bled before but not sure if vavle was wedged open so will re-bleed I need to adjust my rear load compensator as car is lowered and no weight in the back as it is striped so there is now to much bias to the rear!! apolagies to gixerboyuk for thread hi jacking but its good to get some sound advice from the internet for a change

[aritchie]

Originally Posted by daveb948576

bleed in this order aritchie

check fluid level
open valve
passanger rear
check fluid level
drivers rear
check fluid level
passenger front
check fluid level
drivers front
check fluid level

do all of this three times just remember if you shake the bottle of brake fluid it creates air bubbles which as you no are no good. "do not shake"

then remove wedge and test drive if its still no good it could be another thing at fault ie abs pump or master cylinder is knackered

is this same order for non abs ?

[gixerboyuk]

Well manual says rear right first (drivers side), then rear passengers, front drivers and lastly front passengers.

[daveb948576]

if i said the wrong order i do apoligise if you would like to go by the manual then i have no problems with that in fact you may be better off just for peice of mind lets say if you had taken my advice and you wasnt satisfyed you would have to do them all again by the book so i would say go by the book.

i use the same order abs or not i do the one furthest away from the master cylinder and then work closer to it.

if you have abs you must have the ignition on aswell to allow full flow of fluid.

can i just mention that i work on cars all the time and yes i do get problems myself and all im trying to do is give people my advice into given them a step in the right direction
cars are not that hard to work on it just takes a little common sense but unfortunatly i learnt the hard way i didnt want to take advice from other people i just wanted to do things my way but now i do take advie only because i have made mistakes and it can save a lot of time and money. thanks for reading.

[gixerboyuk]

I concur, furthest away from master cylinder and work back, but in the same breath i differed once from a manual thinking i knew better and fecked up big time
Was just painting a bigger picture in the scale of things. Not all advice on MIG is correct and some of it is downright embarassing to read sometimes. Not having a go or doubting you, just think people should be aware of what is being put forward and what is in print. The manual maybe wrong. But i was always lead to believe furthest away first as you said.
But you never know!

[daveb948576]

thank-you

[RAMBIRKETT]

As said before. The rear passenger may be the furthest when looking at the car but when you get underneath and follow the brake pipes you'll soon see which one is furthest away

Originally Posted by RAMBIRKETT

bleed the brakes with rear driver first, rear passenger, front passenger then front drivers last.

[gixerboyuk]

Right, spent 3 hours in the scrappy this morning checking every flaming car in there

This should not be a problem at all, as 7/8 of nearly 50-60 cavaliers have a 20mm master cylinder on a variety disc sizes including vented 256mm.
The other 1/8 were abs equipped and or diesel and running a 22mm master cylinder. Which is not transferable due to different fixing centres (could be re-drilled) and the fluid container fixings

So if the majority of cavs are running a 20mm master cylinder where the hell are my brakes?

Found some plastic stubs off a Fiat Tipo which could be used to mount a remote reservoir but as the m/c is so high up anyway it could be a nightmare

[Aragorn]

i have 284mm turbo calipers fitted to my astra with its original 1.4 master cylinder which is a 20mm item

i have no excessive pedal travel and excellent bite, when i fitted the brakes i replaced all the flexis with new standard items but that was it

i think you need to replace the mastercylinder itself, buy a new one, they arent expensive, and do not try to bleed it with the foot pedal method as thats what kills them most of the time, just use a pressure bleeder.

[Dean_W]

I have a problem with this compensator valve also.

Pedal feels very spongy, and no bite.

MOT guy said that it's down to the valve thinking there is a lot of weight in the back as it's lowered 40mm. It's putting more to the rear than the front.

Need to get this fixed!! Anyone know how to adjust said valve??

[DutchNovaDiesel]

said valve: (and how to adjust it)

[aritchie]

any more info on this alternative master cylinder would be good!

[gixerboyuk]

Originally Posted by Dean_W

I have a problem with this compensator valve also.

Pedal feels very spongy, and no bite.

MOT guy said that it's down to the valve thinking there is a lot of weight in the back as it's lowered 40mm. It's putting more to the rear than the front.

Need to get this fixed!! Anyone know how to adjust said valve??

To adjust valve:

Car must be resting unladen on all four wheels.
Slacken front pivot bolt which secures valve spring to axle.
Remove all tension from spring.
Push the valve lever towards the pivot bolt clamp until it reaches it's stop.
Hold it there, then position pivot bolt clamp so that all the clearance between the spring and the valve is removed without tensioning the spring.
Hold it all in this position and tighten the bolts up.

Taken from the haynes manual. Probs makes more sense to you when you see it. I aint a clue what its on about

[aritchie]

right thought i would bring this up again as i got my car back today and the brakers are shall we say scary!!!

Set up
Cav GSI 256mm disks and calipers up front std rear drums braided hoses

Symptoms
oor pedal and back stepping out under heavy breaking, lots of hanbrake travel but shos seem to catch on drums very quickly when jacked up and using the foot brake.

Was also told by my mate following me today left rear is locking up at low speed

What I have done: Replaced mastercylinder (not new came off another car being broken) renewd rear shoes but not confident on their adjustment (was done by a mechanic but think he rushed it!)

bled brakes with rear wheels of the ground (bias valve not wedged open doh!!)

the spring on the rear load sensor is not connected at the mo as i thought his may help last time i drove it butnow not sure if this is making things worse!!

Would apprecaite a step by step of what to do to try and rectify this

[aritchie]

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[wayne451]

I plan to try a different master cylinder shortly but as you say the handbrake travels miles then they arent adjusted up right! The self adjusters often ping off when reassembling! Just take the drums off and adjust them up by hand, do it so you can JUST slide the drums over the shoes! My handbrake is 1 click to hold, its set up to utter perfection but there is a lot of travel on the pedal due to the size of the V6 callipers pistons! TBH when I had the 2.0 brakes I didn't find them too bad!

[aritchie]

cheers wayne any more ideas on my other problems veering etc

[aritchie]

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