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Last edited by Matheus428; 26-01-2005 at 14:51.
what is a sub-chassis?
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Last edited by Matheus428; 26-01-2005 at 14:55.
You arnt by any chance refering to the type landrover use on there defenders are you.
I am guessing you are refering to a chaccis that instead of been one part is made from more than one bit (say three)?
tut...tut...tut...
four...quatre...vier...patru...quattro...
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Last edited by Matheus428; 26-01-2005 at 14:56.
like the back of a mini?
Is it an anti-roll bar????
If this is the case, then yes, it does improve stabilty!!
I know the Astra MKII don't have sub-chassi, its important or not?surely not an anti roll bar. mkII astra's got one hasn't it?Astra MK4 have sub-chassi.
Hi Matheus,
I think you mean the subframe at the front of the astra mk4 (mk3's have them too). It carries the engine mounts, front anti-roll bar mounts and lower suspension arm mounts. It used to aid production line assembly as the engine and transmission, complete front suspension is attached to it. As the bodyshell travels along the production line the subframe assembly is raised up into the shell and bolted in, the electrics and plumbing are then connected. Job done!
As for any improvements in stability, that would depend on the rigidity of the connections to the bodyshell. How rigid those connections are I cannot tell you, but what I do know is that the mk3 astra is ment to have 30% greater torsional rigidity than the mk2, the mk4 more still. Wether this figure includes the subframe or is just for the bodyshell I dont know. However a mk2 with a seam welded bodyshell will be more rigid than a production mk3 or 4 so that may be the best option for you.
Stef
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Last edited by Matheus428; 26-01-2005 at 14:57.
How about strut braces, these will improve the rigidity. Top one mainly, but I think there are bottom ones too.
The technical term for the sub frame (in the business) is the "carrier frame" if you are interested!!
Last edited by pudsey; 18-04-2002 at 20:27.
I thnk most modern cars have all in one floor plans dont they.
THere are ladder chassis that are supposed to offer benifits but are dangerious.
Where in brazil you from.
Whats your job.
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Last edited by Matheus428; 26-01-2005 at 14:59.
Hi,
I've listed below ways of improving your car's rigidity. It's in order of easiness, easiest at the top, hardest at the bottom;
1. Front strut brace, easy to fit, makes an instant improvement. Loads of companies make these or you can make one yourself (i did!). (Don't bother with a rear one as if your has little body roll most of the load through the rear dampers are vertical).
2. Bolt in roll-cage. Can generally be fitted with with minimal of disturbence to the interior, though some kits may require strengthening plates welded to the floorpan. Greatly improves the rigidity of the car.
3. Seam welding the shell. Requires removing the interior, engine, basically stripping the car right down and stitch welding the joins of the structural members of the car. Can take a week or more to do a proper job of it. Greatly improves the rigidity of the car.
4. Seam welding and weld in roll cage. Ultimate for rigidity of the car, provides an excellent platform for the suspension to do it's job properly. Lots of work and may take a couple of weeks or more.
As for disturbing the passengers, that is down the suspension setup. Higher spring rates (harder springs) mean higher vibration frequencies, most passenger cars are about 0.5-1.0Hz, a race car is normally 'bout 2.5-4.0Hz.
The higher the frequency the more uncomfortable it is. The higher frequencies can cause muscle ache after a 1 hour drive (ribs mainly).This does depend on road surface of course. I used to get this after 20 mins when I did motocross.
lmao
Stef
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Last edited by Matheus428; 26-01-2005 at 15:00.
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