You'll need to take over all coolant pipes and rad
You may need to change a couple of wires over (coil to match 1.3 dizzy)
and lengthen the wires to the fan switch on the rad.
Autochoke can be a pain in the ***. Still ain't got mine running right so best advice is note where all tubes go on carb just in case they come off while moving across.
You will probably also need to block off the fuel return pipe from the carb with a decent sized screw unless you can be arsed plumbing in a fuel return pipe to the 1.0 tank.
Pete and Dave were already hard at work when i got in shortly after 4pm, and they've not long left. All done with the cars side by side on my driveway
All thats left is the wiring - wheres the best place to find a "live while cranking" ignition live? Isnt there some sort of ballast resistor that i need to remove somewhere? (Its a MK2 btw)
Also, this business with the fuel return from the carb... Is it really needed? If so do i: a) Swop the whole tank/fuel line setup or b) just arse about gettin the return line fitted?
Personally, while you got the car there I'd swap the whole lot tank, return lines, etc. Might as well do it properly. Also, spend some time with the Haynes and adjust the auto choke properly, they're not too bad just people forget you might need to adjust a few things after 15 years/ 100k miles!
The feed for the carb shut off/ heater is black/ yellow, but I've seen plenty run ok without.
All thats left is the wiring - wheres the best place to find a "live while cranking" ignition live? Isnt there some sort of ballast resistor that i need to remove somewhere? (Its a MK2 btw)
i couldn't find that resistor on mine or in the haynes.... cranking live.... well i didn't connect it on my 1.0 > 1.4 conversion and it ran ok but if u want one the coil area black feed/horn black is live
i couldn't find that resistor on mine or in the haynes.... cranking live.... well i didn't connect it on my 1.0 > 1.4 conversion and it ran ok but if u want one the coil area black feed/horn black is live
as for the tank i would swap it, i split a return hose once and i thought never mind i will just block the return off. it wouldnt even idle cus the fuel pressure was too high and flooded/overfilled the carb.
had to fix a blown headgasket along the way but everythings ok with the engine.
Havin probs adjusting the gear linkage. At the mo we're still using the rod and knob/lever etc from the 4sp, but all we seem to get is reverse, 3rd, 4th and 5th, which has made for some amusing yet neighbour annoying (i live on a hill btw) test runs. Tried 3 times now to align it all, still no gen.
Do i need to swop the rod etc over with the one from the 5sp?
You need to cut the bit off the gearstick under the gaiter in the car that stops it going into 5th, on the right hand side of the stick. This actually only allows the stick itself to move for the standard H pattern plus reverse, you oviously need to be able to shove it right a bit more which this sticky out bit prevents.
You need to cut the bit off the gearstick under the gaiter in the car that stops it going into 5th, on the right hand side of the stick. This actually only allows the stick itself to move for the standard H pattern plus reverse, you oviously need to be able to shove it right a bit more which this sticky out bit prevents.
But don't cut it all off, make a few guesses at it, work you're way along.
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