I'm trying to rebuild my engine and I'm getting really pis*ed off with it.
I'm chaning the Pistons for low comp ones.
I need to change the clutch cos its had it.
So far I've remove the Head, Turbo, Inlet etc. etc....
Only the Block and Gearbox remain in the Engine bay.
I want to remove the block to get it re-bored.
I then want to change the clutch (seen as the engines out the way)
Can I remove the engine from the gearbox while the gearbox is still bolted into the car?
If Yes, How?
If No, How do I remove everything through the top? (Block and Gearbox)?
I have seperated the Block from the Gearbox and have about a 10-15mm gap between the 2. I can't get them to go back together. What could be stopping it?
I really want to get this car back on the road ASAP (Within 4 weeks!!!!) but it seems that every time I make progress I hit a snag.
PLEASE NOTE THIS IS A C20LET (TURBO ENGINE) AND F28 GEARBOX (6 SPEED). I'VE HAD SOME GOOD ADVICE FROM PPL BUT THEN REALISED ITS FOR A C20XE AND F20.
the gearbox has guides like the block/head connection and these need to be lined up & at roughly the right angle to mate
but you could now just support the block & gearbox separately, undo the front engine mount and lower the block out.
No. If you have everything undone then all that is left is the gearbox input shaft in the friction plate. Is there more space for the box and block to move apart? Some things to try:
To split it:
Turn the crank back and forth to try and get the input shaft to let go.
If you can get to the clutch bolts undo them and the friction/pressure plate will stay with the 'box.
To get it back together:
Make sure the block and box are lined up as best you can, just a slight angle and they won't go together or split.
Put some bolts back in and tighten things up around the bellhousing bit by bit, be carefull if it's not going back together. Sometimes the bolts help get things lined up again.
I've not taken it out, but as far as i can see with no head or bottom pully it should come out the top. Lift the pully end so it tips up lengthways.
> Can I remove the engine from the gearbox while the gearbox is still bolted into the car?
yes you can, thats how I done mine (but it was a C20XE/F20). The engine will be the same but the F28 is a bit different.
You haven't told us what car this engine is in, ie Cav, Calibra etc and is the F28 actually connected up to the 4x4 system?
I took the head off, undone all the gearbox bolts, had a jack under the gearbox and tied some rope around the block and liffted it out of the engine bay (Calibra). I had trouble seperating the gearbox from the block, it was down to
1) the bottom inspection panel was still bolted on (so it was still hooked around the flywhell..DOH!
2) and the cnetr shaft is long than I though for it to slip out of the pressure plate/clutch assembly
Now the C20XE/F20 is gone, I'm fitting a C20LET/F28 in there.
> All the Engine mounts are undone. (I think)
what about the gearbox mount on the back of the block, near the TX box (presuming you hve one).
> Do I have to undo the Crank Shaft Bolt, and remove the sump, to remove the engine?
no, leave the crank shaft bolt and sump alone, that will have nothing to do with the gearbox.
you should or should have removed the crank pulled while teh engine is in the car, its a bitch of a job if done when the engine is out, just ask topbuzz, it tok him two weeks to get it off!! its a very tight bastard of a bolt, tightned at 250nm!
It's easy to lock the crank with the sump off and it upside down in an engine stand. Place an extension bar in the block so that it stops on of the crank counterweights from spinning.
> ALL DONE!!!!
> Lifted it out (With help from a friend)
so you got the block off in the end, well done. I suppose the gearbox centre shaft was still clinging on for dear life in the clutch/pressure plate.
It's easy to lock the crank with the sump off and it upside down in an engine stand. Place an extension bar in the block so that it stops on of the crank counterweights from spinning.
thats what I thought, but then the engine stand itself started to spin. So I locked up the engine stand (as you can spin the 'fixture' part of it), but then the whole engine stand and engine started to tip over! So I wheeled the engine stand and engine to one corner of the garage were it would wedge itself up agasint the garage door mechansim.
only with a 2ft breaker bar, 1/2" E20 socket and a scafold pole on the end of the breaker bar (now making it 5ft long) did the thing undo!!
getting the bottom end balanced on any engine gives less rotational losses so easier revving and a bit more power, nitriding is a heat treatment process that takes the stress out of the srank, it actually bends in the process so they have to straighten it afterwards! make sure you get it line bored too, this lines the cylinders up with the crank and rods again for less frictional losses, as for the rods i was told to leave them alone, but that was on a c16xe, still revs to 8500 though
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