Over the recent cold snap, the darn thing has been a real pain in the rear to get started....Its all happened really since the battery decided that it would drain following some muppet leaving the boot not closed properly.....Got it jumpstarted, drove it for a good 60 miles last night at 60 plus and for about 70 minutes...
Went to start the darn thing again today, and it fires ok, and sometimes even starts, but it then promptly dies again, with the orange warning light flashing......
Any ideas? Sensor nackered somewhere? Engines the 2.5 v6, it has been super chipped but cant see that being a prob......
Obviously cant do anything with it, need to get it into a garage to get it looked at, once it starts, its fine, but currently the darn orange warning light is flashing and I cant do anythng with it....
have tou tried disconnecting the battery yet? because the turn the key 20 times only works if the engine fires and runs! if it was the immobiliser surely the engine would not start at all! it could just be another fault that has appeared, if the engine management light is on then it must be some thing sending a fault code which i doubt the immobiliser would do as normally when immobilsed the em light does not come on. don't want to sound sarcastic but have you checked all power cables and leads! and maybe the charging volts because even though you say you have a new alternator it could have gone wrong, i have had this before.
mat
hehehe ta....in st albans, nice people at bramalls looking at it now, testing everything at the mo, reprogged the keys and now getting the battery recharged and retested....
In answer to Mtrayer about ecu light being connected to the immobilizer. Negative leg of ecu light is actually wired directly to transponder unit as well as ecu. As far as i'm aware the light only flashes in one second intervals constantly to indicate an immobilizer problem, otherwise it flashes up codes to indicate other engine faults.
hmm well personally, i dont see why they just dont flash it up on that 80's esque lcd whats wrong, a muppet could program this..........hmm actually, I've just answered my own question....;->
They do it the hard way to rob u of your precious pennies, means u have to go to them. Went into our local dealer at the weekend to get a price on the 308mm disk conversion to prove a point to my mate.
£137 per disk
£93 for per caliper
I think that was plus vat but i cant remember, I thru the printout away in disgust.
Well they fixed the imob, and the battery is currently attached to their industrial strength testing tool, which is reacharging the battery and they're gonna retest it in the AM....
Be interesting to see what the bill is as this definately wasnt a home fix job, as they've gone the quick route and erased the keys, programmed them back in again and that works....
Just waiting on the electrics now to see what the prob is if any.....
As for the brake conversion........ bit small arent they?
Glad to know your getting somewhere, hope the bill is not too painfull.
As for brakes I think my mate has seen sense and will fit 284mm disks,callipers and pads that notnormal said he can supply. Im sure the money saved would be better spent on uprating the front springs. Spax all round with matching springs bought with a valver conversion all round. The fronts nearly on the stops when its not even moving!!!
Suppose they could be right, low voltage caused our lockout and electronic gadgets in general do not operate well with low or fluctuating voltages. As for ecu's the Vaux technician I spoke to summed them up well.
Quote.
"Anything that goes on in there is P.F.M."
Appears the alternator hasnt been charging the battery at the correct rate despite it being fitted by a a competant company that speciliases in vx mods.......
Now I can take 2 tracks on this, and 1 believe the garage is doing the vx usual of trying to "upsell" parts i dont really need....possiblity
Or 2 work out how to check this myself without frying myself.........
Ideas?
Havent got a multimeter but spose I can blag one from somewhere
U never know with these bloody garages! Our engine came without an alternator and it cost £90 for a second hand one, not cheap, especially if u intend to get rid of the car.
U can buy a cheap multimeter for a tenner, and they are normally adequate for cars. Dont know what specific output voltage is for V6 alternator but most cars show roughly 14.4 volts across battery terminals while engine is running, alternator light is extinguished and all ancilleries are turned off.
Im not an auto electrician but thats what id check for.
Sure others will confirm or dispel for u.
Hope this helps.
Its a reasonable question to ask if your electrical knowledge is limited, Horses for courses and all that.
No harm in asking especially after your cars somewhat chequered history!
I only know a bit as I had to figure out how to wire V6 in myself, could not find help and all quotes were in region of £400 because of transponder set up. Bought engine with no documents, key transponder or ecu and had to get around it.
I did some calcuations acutally recently on the omega....
I paid 17k for it a year old, after it had lost 11k in its first year.........
Since then its cost me :--
1)Cambelt incident, best part of 3.5k including hirecar
2)Servicing, around 5k
3)tires due to loud pedal use......erm about 2k
4)3 points........erm lets not go there ;->
5)misc work to sort out shocks, brakes, various internal failed bits another 3k
so when you look at it, hmm thats a new merc sitting there with a warranty that u cant fault......everything for the first 3 years virutally
Hmmmmmmmm, and my next car.......will it be a vx? Hmmmm i'll let you make your own opinions......
Although i may keep the omega, get the boys at c-sport to turbo it and use it as a track car....
Ouch!!!
No wonder u have reservations about vauxhalls.
Still prefer your car to the 205 diesel £200 jallopy I have to tat about in, couldnt afford the £45 a week fuel bill of vindicator, mortgages are a complete B******d, spoils all my fun.
Hope u suss your prob,
Catch u later
Paul
Strike the 14.4 volts, thought about it again today and 13.4 is more like it across battery terminals for healhy charge. Memory lapse! Must be getting old.
Erm 225 55 ---->ZR ,<---------- 16's as this isnt some go kart engined erm hatch back ;-> And i refuse to buy cheap crap so ya looking at mitch pilot sports or maybe eagle's if i'm bored, usually about a tonne fifteen a tyre.....
Rear wheel drive is fun..........if u can handle it ;->
Any advances on the battery removal/imobilisor situation?
Gotta be sure as the neighbours are getting agitated with the multiple alarm soundings!
Thanks in advance
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