Yes it is, you can get after market kits, look at Deamon Tweaks.
But it sounds like your coil or amp is producing far too much voltage if your going through dizzy caps and rotar arms like that.
Are these proper VX parts you are using or aftermaket ones? The chepaer aftermarket ones do seem to have trouble lasting. For cheaper VX parts, try www.autovaux.co.uk and give them the GM code, they will be cheaper than your VX delaer.
If you still go through them with VX parts, then you need to look at the coil and amp.
Let me know how you get on with this. I've got all sorts of problems with the hall sensor on my cav and can't get it to run right. It just mis fires and runs crap all the time. If I can get a distibutorless ignotion it will get rid of the bloody hall sensor.
You guys do know that this hall sensor in the distributor on the XE/LET is not for ign. timing, but only for seq inj. and selective knock detection?? (has only 1 gap, instead of 4)
Your engine will run if you pull the hall plug loose. Only in emergency-mode, but it runs.....
So if it can't see the difference between plugged and unplugged, there's something wrong with the sensor, or the wiring in between =>
Did you try swapping the complete unit with "a friends" distr. ??
(XE or LET)
If you have the wiring diagram, you can measure if there is a fault in one of the three wires with a simple Ohm-meter. Unplug the ECU and measure from pin(s) to plug.
If you can't find anything here, there can be something wrong with the ECU, but I read that that was O.K., so.....
I've checked the cabling, it was 5 ohm's on each cable to the ECU pins. There was no other shorts across any other pins either.
I've tried dizzys from XE and LET cars and no difference. I tried another ECU from a LET and I get the same problem and put my ECU in that LET and thats all fine.
My cap and arm is a genuine vaux one and it's only done approx 3000 miles.
SBD seem to reckon its work upgrading to a coil pack because the dizzy cap and arm wear out quick. I dont know if this is because the engine is running quite a bit of power.
So if you unplug the sensor and ECU, you measure between:
pin31 <=> Hall1 = 0 Ohm!
pin 8 <=> Hall 2 = 0 Ohm!
ground <=> Hall 3 = 0 Ohm!
Also check that there ís no cross-connection between wires!!!
If this all is O.K., try to measure on the connected plug(s):
When running, you must measure 5.0 V on pin 31 (=Hall1) and around 2.50V on pin8 (average). H3 is off course 0V.
5 ohms on cable resistance is nothing really. You pick up 3 ohms straight away on a voltage tester when connecting the terminals together. On the motronic 2.7 ECU the pins are slighly different to your lists.
Black is ground (-) 5 Ohms
Brown/White(grey) is (+) pin 12 5 Ohms
Brown/black (0) pin 8 5 Ohms
I'm getting the correct voltages when the plug is in.
This is why I think it's something else other than the Hall sensor.
We unplugged my mates calibra turbo and started it up. It flagged up code 94 but runs fine. Full boost no misfire. I'm thinking I've got another fault thats not being shown on the ECU.
Were indeed from my 2.5 scheme. 2.7 is at home, but you get the point...
You probably checked wires and changed plugs first.
I've heard stories about faults in the cranc-sensor. Look for bad shielding and clean the inside. (change it with another to test...)
Can it be thatyou have a fuel problem??? I looked once for 2 weeks to cure misfires under boost, and then it came out that my fuelpump was bad..... felt exactly the same as a misfire!
Just some thoughts....
have you got the correct plug gap with the new plugs? i bought some ngk ones and had to re-gap them as although they were listed for cav/cally turbo the gap was too big, mine ran fine till it hit boost then died like a mo'fo. gapped em, and wahey full boost
have you got the correct plug gap with the new plugs? i bought some ngk ones and had to re-gap them as although they were listed for cav/cally turbo the gap was too big, mine ran fine till it hit boost then died like a mo'fo. gapped em, and wahey full boost
On my turbo loom to the coil its a 4 pin plug but with one of them blanked off.Yet the amplifier on the coil has 4 pins .Any reason for this?
I have swapped the coil amp for a 16v one as im told they are the same it seems to run alot better!i might get a new cap though.
The coil packs on redtops 16v's and ecotecs look the same though one has 4 pin connection and the other has eco has 3 pins
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