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danger! well, only if you run a 70 degree thermostsat in the winter

1K views 27 replies 11 participants last post by  NAZ 
#1 ·
I had huge problems trying to get my oil hot enough, even with the cooler unplumbed, the oil was still too cool for full protection.

I put in a 90 degree one last weekend, and the oil temp's now floating about the 80 degree marker (as opposed to the 50 degree marker) which is much better. It also sounds and feels much healthier.

I'll maybe put it in for track days, but not for general driving.
 
#6 ·
The reason I bought the stat was as an attempt to reduce oil temperature. I should get a temp gauge on it, but as it is at the moment I am suspecting that it is a bit too high.

What is the optimum oil tempertaure to run at?
 
#10 ·
John, you're car gets much hotter as it's a turbo (read small (hopefully) controlled bonfire under the bonnet), so the heat problems'll be more pronounced with you lot.

Mike, you'll need to fit a sensor to the sump, Gary's done it, and if we're really nice to him, maybe he'll take a pic ;).
 
#13 ·
Animal said:
John, you're car gets much hotter as it's a turbo (read small (hopefully) controlled bonfire under the bonnet), so the heat problems'll be more pronounced with you lot.
Under full boost, yes.
Under medium boost, maybe.
During normal city driving (off boost most of time, occasionally some boost) it's basically a low-compression XE with mild timing.
These mornings it takes about 20mins of no-boost driving to bring the water temp up to 90C. Oil is even slower to warm up...
 
#17 ·
But john, the oil is going through the turbo which is is hot from the exhaust so it's not going to be as cold as a 20XE during slow driving.

But as you say when you put your clog down it's going to get very hot.

Anyway back to the subject, if your using synthetic oil then things should be so bad should they ?

i don't know how people run cool stats in the winter.
 
#20 ·
The oil flow through the turbo bearing isn't substantial, not enough to make any difference in the sump. Drop in the ocean.
Plus of course the turbo bearing isn't that hot anyway because everything is still cold, the coolant is cold, the metals are just warming up, and you're not boosting ofcourse!...
(We're talking coolant temp 70-80C after a cold start)

Off-boost, the exhaust gases aren't as hot as the XE's, because the compression ratio is low

And yeah, a good synthetic (changed often) will always be superior in stop/start conditions, as well as full boost.

In an ideal world, you'd have a summer setting for the fan swich, the thermostat, the coolant strength etc.
In reality we compromise, don't we?
 
#22 ·
Gary said:
John you mention a 'cool stat' - but what temp is yours ? - is it the 'courtenay' one of about 80 degrees - alledgedly the one from SA ? - I'd also like one which is between the two extremes.
Mine is 10C below the std - don't remember what stock is.

I'd like a fan switch that kicks in at 95-96C.
The stock one starts at 98+C, mine at 91-92C (too low). Any ideas?
 
#25 ·
The 82 degree stat is a normal GM part.

Standard on UK non-aircon C20LET's is 92, but the 82 is listed for somewhere hot or aircon cars, I can't remember.

It's listed right alongside all the other thermostats. Not too dear.

Unless you go to Regal/Courtenay..............

It is difficult to get the right compromise with these things, eh?
 
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