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MK3 Astra GSi Turbo questions...

1K views 26 replies 5 participants last post by  phat SR 
#1 ·
Hey peeps, just another couple of quick questions.... :D
Right, LET is going to be out of a Calibra, now how will I fix the PAS pump and alternator? Will I have to use an XE bottom pulley with the thin belts? Will this fit the LET without any problems? :confused:
I assume the Astra PAS pump will bolt straight on, what about the alternator fixings? :confused:
Exhaust wise I have a full longlife system on there at the moment that was made for the XE, now can I still use the system and have a piece made from the turbo down pipe to the rest of the system or will I have to have a whole new system made? Not sure what diameter the pipe work is, do I have to have a 2.5" system for the LET? :confused:
That’s about it for now me thinks.... :rolleyes:
Cheers for any help.... :beer: :beer:
 
#5 ·
phat SR said:
with the exhaust you'll have to take it somewhere and either get a new system or mate the existing one to the LET downpipe. turbo bore is 2.25" iirc, xe is 2"
If my longlife system is 2" then will is be ok for a standard LET? If it is then I assume when I start to tune it then I will have to get a larger bore system?
Thanks again for the help! :beer:
 
#7 ·
phat SR said:
i would personally get a new system mate, you dontreally want too much back pressure, the more free-flowing you can get it the better. no worries with the help, i literaly just got my mk3 turbo running yesterday so its all fresh in my mind atm
Yeah that was what im thinking, I will meausure the bore on the system I got now, but I can't see it being anymore than 2"...
Fair play, how long did it take you to get the car running?
Did you do it to a GSi as well? how was the job in total?
Cheers.... :beer:
 
#8 ·
hi, ive just completed my engine transplant from the gsi to turbo from a calibra, it took me about a week from taking it out of the calibra, taking XE out and putting turbo engine in, during that time i did clean the engine throughly and clean all the engine bay, converted F28 to 2WD etc and only spent around 4 hours a day doing it when my dad came back from work.

with the exhaust i already had a very large exhaust system on and my exhaust system just fit inside the down pipe so i just gas welded them together.

just putting every thing back together like bumper, dash and drivers seat.
 
#9 ·
astragsi said:
hi, ive just completed my engine transplant from the gsi to turbo from a calibra, it took me about a week from taking it out of the calibra, taking XE out and putting turbo engine in, during that time i did clean the engine throughly and clean all the engine bay, converted F28 to 2WD etc and only spent around 4 hours a day doing it when my dad came back from work.

with the exhaust i already had a very large exhaust system on and my exhaust system just fit inside the down pipe so i just gas welded them together.

just putting every thing back together like bumper, dash and drivers seat.
Sweet, how did you get on with linking the LET loom to the XE car loom? Got any help you can give me on that?! What IC did you use? Im thinking along the lines if frontera FMIC in a wide mouth bumper?
Why did you take the dash out BTW? :confused:
 
#10 ·
hi,

linking the LET loom to the car loom near the battery wasnt that hard really, some people say that they plug straight in but they dont, i had to cut the car loom plug off, and use the plug on the calibra so that i had both plugs from the calibra.

i did this by cutting the wires and just matching them up, soildering them together and shrinkwrapping each wire. at bit time consuming but it needed to be done.

im using standard IC at the moment but i will but putting a frontera one in soon, not sure weather or not to cut the bumper for big mouth as the bumper will loose all its strength although it will provide a lot better flow.

i didnt mean the dash, just the clocks for turbo clocks :D
 
#11 ·
astragsi said:
hi,

linking the LET loom to the car loom near the battery wasnt that hard really, some people say that they plug straight in but they dont, i had to cut the car loom plug off, and use the plug on the calibra so that i had both plugs from the calibra.

i did this by cutting the wires and just matching them up, soildering them together and shrinkwrapping each wire. at bit time consuming but it needed to be done.

im using standard IC at the moment but i will but putting a frontera one in soon, not sure weather or not to cut the bumper for big mouth as the bumper will loose all its strength although it will provide a lot better flow.

i didnt mean the dash, just the clocks for turbo clocks :D
Ah so when you link the wires by the battery all the colours match up fine and theres no strays?, is it just the plug that wont fit then hence cutting and soldering the wires? How was the wiring in the footwell?
Thanks fer yer help on this! :beer:
 
#12 ·
yeh all the wires match up fine. the plug on the astra car loom will not fit into the turbo loom so this is why you need to cut the plug off and join the wires so that you have both plugs off the turbo making them fit together.

the wiring in the footwell is easy,

ecu plugs into the ecu plug.

the three wires which are :

6 pin black
6 pin gree
2 plug black

the 6 pin black does not need to be used. - i didnt plug them in
the 6 pin green - i think they all matched up on mine so it was a case of pluggin it in apart from the green wire on it which is the rev counter. you need to cut this and join it to the green wire on the 2 pin black plug.

2 pin black plug - this has the fuel pump wire and no other wires on the turbo side of the loom but on the car loom side it has the fuel pump and the green rev counter.

you need to make sure the fuel pump wire joins together and the green wire on the car loom joins to the wire that you cut on the turbo side to make the rev counter work.

hope this helps

karl
 
#13 ·
astragsi said:
yeh all the wires match up fine. the plug on the astra car loom will not fit into the turbo loom so this is why you need to cut the plug off and join the wires so that you have both plugs off the turbo making them fit together.

the wiring in the footwell is easy,

ecu plugs into the ecu plug.

the three wires which are :

6 pin black
6 pin gree
2 plug black

the 6 pin black does not need to be used. - i didnt plug them in
the 6 pin green - i think they all matched up on mine so it was a case of pluggin it in apart from the green wire on it which is the rev counter. you need to cut this and join it to the green wire on the 2 pin black plug.

2 pin black plug - this has the fuel pump wire and no other wires on the turbo side of the loom but on the car loom side it has the fuel pump and the green rev counter.

you need to make sure the fuel pump wire joins together and the green wire on the car loom joins to the wire that you cut on the turbo side to make the rev counter work.

hope this helps

karl
Excellent, yes will be a great help...
Couple more questions if you would be so kind, does your ECU light on the dash work as well? Have you got to mod anything to get the fuel computer to still work? And do you need to change the fuel pump?
Thanks very much for your help m8! :beer: :beer:
 
#14 ·
yeh the ecu light still works fine and so does the dianostic plug as well so you can still do the paper clip trick to read the fault codes. you dont have to do any thing for the fuel computer and it all works fine. the gsi fuel pump is fine.

if you need any more info just ask

karl
 
#16 ·
savage- do you know if there's any way of sorting that out?ie getting the fuel computer/mfd to work properly?

unrelated NOTE-i used an astra td rad (the gm one, NOT the isuzu one as the end tanks are completely different!), this rad is almost IDENTICAL to the LET rad, but i really struggled to get a fan to fit (never tried an LET one mind, i read on here that they do fit). using a similar method as what i did with the nova LET i built-cav turbo air-con fan (slimline) as rad fan, with brackets machined at local engineering place so that the fan is mounted to the rad.
 
#18 ·
phat SR said:
savage- do you know if there's any way of sorting that out?ie getting the fuel computer/mfd to work properly?

unrelated NOTE-i used an astra td rad (the gm one, NOT the isuzu one as the end tanks are completely different!), this rad is almost IDENTICAL to the LET rad, but i really struggled to get a fan to fit (never tried an LET one mind, i read on here that they do fit). using a similar method as what i did with the nova LET i built-cav turbo air-con fan (slimline) as rad fan, with brackets machined at local engineering place so that the fan is mounted to the rad.
There's no way that I know of to sort he FC thing out. I know that Dom (mad scientist) plays with these things so maybe sometime when he's finished wiring his house up to a remote control lmao ;) he might be able to look into it.

I too used a 1.7TD GM rad. The core is the same as the LET rad but, as you say, the end tanks are different. I have mounted the metal LET fan to it using a series of specially designed, ultra-high tech cable ties ;).

gazturbo - do a search through the M&E section, this question pops up more times than a viagra addict at a week long beach vollyball contest.
 
#20 ·
fuel pump should be ok, i will be running mine with large fmic and phase 2, but with higher fuel pressure regulator.
get a diff too!
i drove mine for the first time the other day, and compared to the LET nova, which didnt have the diff in it, the astra just gripped and went like sh*t off a shovel lol (i know the astra's slightly heavier), i have also fitted cav gsi equal mlength driveshafts to help against torque steer
 
#21 ·
yeh as you say the fuel pump will be fine, how much is it going to cost you to remap the unichip are you leaving it for now?? it will be that kind of figures with the IC yeh.

how does the drivers side drive shaft mount when you are using equal length driveshafts?? do you use a bracket that bolts onto the block??
 
#25 ·
for the equal length shafts, the long shaft (drivers side) is held onto the block by a mount and 2x 15mm bolts iirc. the shaft itself cannot be removed from the donor vehicle without first removing these bolts (take a long breaker bar attachment lol, it will be tight). other than that they're the same as normal driveshafts.
 
#26 ·
phat SR said:
for the equal length shafts, the long shaft (drivers side) is held onto the block by a mount and 2x 15mm bolts iirc. the shaft itself cannot be removed from the donor vehicle without first removing these bolts (take a long breaker bar attachment lol, it will be tight). other than that they're the same as normal driveshafts.
What Car can these be robbed from then dude?
 
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