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URGENT: Need gen on C20XE mount into nova

1K views 24 replies 6 participants last post by  Ste_nova 
#1 ·
I went to the scrappies today to get another mount for the XE

Well, when i got there, there was an Astra with the said mount on it.

So out came the Oxy Aceteline to cut the mount off (with most of the chassis leg lmao)

What i'm wondering is how far EXACTLY does the mounting kit for the Nova drop the XE down by?

That way i can weld the mount lower to start with :D

Thanx ;)
 
#5 ·
Yep, hes right, its already been cut off to allow the TD rad and pipes to pass freely.

Bit of a bugger really, but i went to the scrap yard today and got an astra mount cut off for me, The astra mount sits on the side of the chassis leg as a pose to above it and over the top like the novas.

Hopefully getting it welded on this weekend.

What i'm concearned about is welding it on 1.5 inches lower, and ***ing it up. Cos if its not welded right first time, then the structural integrity of the chassis will come into question if i cut it off yet again.

I'll weld it exactly the same place as the old one, and use Brian_s mounts :)

Can't go wrong then :D
 
#10 ·
yeah the harry hockley plate kit along with seam welding strengthenbs the fron end right up. you will need to at least weld it or itll come apart.

foto works for me too.

rodgerq
 
#14 ·
jamie_f said:
you do know that you have to completely seam or sitch you the front end done you, or the shell will be pulled apart
Sounds fun :D

I'll get her seam welded, where are the main stress points?

I'll be seaming all the way down the chassis leg, round the turrets, And where the chassis legs are spotted onto the bulkhead.

Anywhere else?
 
#16 ·
jamie_f said:
do all along the the chassis rail from the headlight to the bulkhead, all round the suspension turret, down the where the bulkhead meeds the chassis rail, the bit where the lower arm goes, and inside the wheel arch where it meets the bulkhead

Ok cool :D

What i'll do then in the meantime is (i got till 18th for engine to arrive) Stick the new brake lines and calipers on, Tow the little tart to my brothers work, get her seamed up, trundle her back and dump the engine in :D

Am i right in thinking the Nova (as its not taxed) will be taxed under the car/van towing it?

Ta
 
#17 ·
Stitch welding is better than seam welding. If a piece of stitch weld breaks, the weight strain will move onto the next piece of stitch weld which will still have it's original strength. If a section of seam weld starts to break, it'll just tear along the weld until it gets to the end = no more weld - if you get what I mean :)

Cheers,
Kieran
 
#18 ·
yeah that could be something to think about as kieran says. its a good point.also remember that when you are welding up the seams, there are 2 sides to them so do both.

also when you are doin the bulkhead take out your interior or it will get burned and could start a nasty fire - not good.

rodgerq
 
#21 ·
Sorry to dig this thread up again peeps :(

As the due date for the engine gets ever closer, i want to get a checklist.

A few things i need to know aswell is about the gear linkage, what excactly do i need to do with the plastic thing? :confused:

Also i had a bot of a kick in the teeth when i learnt my brother (the one whos meant to seam weld the car) has broken his leg in 2 places.

Does this mean i can't fit the engine?!

I mean, i can fit it right? But just not gun it till its seam welded.

Its a pain, cos i've preped all the seams ready to be welded, Even got some plates cut up aswell.

As for the checklist, can someone stick me one up, preferably with photos?

Thanx ;)
 
#22 ·
It would be a waste of time fitting the engine and everything else now to then have to remove it again to weld it all up.
You could fit the engine without seam welding so long as the shell was in "mint" condition. Some people run 2.0 conversions without doing any welding at all and get away with it. I personally wouldn't though because among the ones that do get away with it, you always seem to come accross a pic or 2 of the ones that didn't and broke around the turret areas or front cross member :eek:

Checklist (no pics though)

Driver's side chassis leg/alternator clearance
Mod clutch cable outlet
Shorten heater matrix pipe
Push back the panel on top of the bulkhead to clear SFI box
Mounts for engine/gearbox
Nova GTE shafts, early Mk2 Cav 1.6 inner CV joints, Nova GTE outers
Use Nova clutch cable, Astra/Cav accelerator cable
Injection fuel tank, MPi pump
Modify 2.0 16v manifold to fit Nova exhaust system
Nova GTE/GSi or early 1.2/3 radiator - I think the coolant pipes you use are all Nova, apart from the long one that goes to the heater matrix inlet which is Astra, but not 100% sure (got mine off Turbo_Chris ready made for 2.0 Nova :D
Make sure you get the fuel feed/return hoses with the 2.0 16v ;)
Lower antiroll bar (if you're using one)
Wiring

Hope that helps :)
Kieran
 
#23 ·
Cheers mate.

I want to seam weld the lot of it, but is it really that important to seam weld the inside where the chassis legs are spotted to the bulkhead in the engine bay? would i not get away with welding the bit where the chassis leg spots onto the bulkhead/arch under the wheel arches.
 
#25 ·
Nova_TDi said:
but is it really that important to seam weld the inside where the chassis legs are spotted to the bulkhead in the engine bay? would i not get away with welding the bit where the chassis leg spots onto the bulkhead/arch under the wheel arches.
no cause thats one of the worst places cause u can only weld 2 of the 4 sides.. in the prep book it says to drill between the spot welds and puddle weld also!!
 
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