Yep, hes right, its already been cut off to allow the TD rad and pipes to pass freely.
Bit of a bugger really, but i went to the scrap yard today and got an astra mount cut off for me, The astra mount sits on the side of the chassis leg as a pose to above it and over the top like the novas.
Hopefully getting it welded on this weekend.
What i'm concearned about is welding it on 1.5 inches lower, and ***ing it up. Cos if its not welded right first time, then the structural integrity of the chassis will come into question if i cut it off yet again.
I'll weld it exactly the same place as the old one, and use Brian_s mounts
do all along the the chassis rail from the headlight to the bulkhead, all round the suspension turret, down the where the bulkhead meeds the chassis rail, the bit where the lower arm goes, and inside the wheel arch where it meets the bulkhead
do all along the the chassis rail from the headlight to the bulkhead, all round the suspension turret, down the where the bulkhead meeds the chassis rail, the bit where the lower arm goes, and inside the wheel arch where it meets the bulkhead
What i'll do then in the meantime is (i got till 18th for engine to arrive) Stick the new brake lines and calipers on, Tow the little tart to my brothers work, get her seamed up, trundle her back and dump the engine in
Am i right in thinking the Nova (as its not taxed) will be taxed under the car/van towing it?
Stitch welding is better than seam welding. If a piece of stitch weld breaks, the weight strain will move onto the next piece of stitch weld which will still have it's original strength. If a section of seam weld starts to break, it'll just tear along the weld until it gets to the end = no more weld - if you get what I mean
yeah that could be something to think about as kieran says. its a good point.also remember that when you are welding up the seams, there are 2 sides to them so do both.
also when you are doin the bulkhead take out your interior or it will get burned and could start a nasty fire - not good.
It would be a waste of time fitting the engine and everything else now to then have to remove it again to weld it all up.
You could fit the engine without seam welding so long as the shell was in "mint" condition. Some people run 2.0 conversions without doing any welding at all and get away with it. I personally wouldn't though because among the ones that do get away with it, you always seem to come accross a pic or 2 of the ones that didn't and broke around the turret areas or front cross member
Checklist (no pics though)
Driver's side chassis leg/alternator clearance
Mod clutch cable outlet
Shorten heater matrix pipe
Push back the panel on top of the bulkhead to clear SFI box
Mounts for engine/gearbox
Nova GTE shafts, early Mk2 Cav 1.6 inner CV joints, Nova GTE outers
Use Nova clutch cable, Astra/Cav accelerator cable
Injection fuel tank, MPi pump
Modify 2.0 16v manifold to fit Nova exhaust system
Nova GTE/GSi or early 1.2/3 radiator - I think the coolant pipes you use are all Nova, apart from the long one that goes to the heater matrix inlet which is Astra, but not 100% sure (got mine off Turbo_Chris ready made for 2.0 Nova
Make sure you get the fuel feed/return hoses with the 2.0 16v
Lower antiroll bar (if you're using one)
Wiring
I want to seam weld the lot of it, but is it really that important to seam weld the inside where the chassis legs are spotted to the bulkhead in the engine bay? would i not get away with welding the bit where the chassis leg spots onto the bulkhead/arch under the wheel arches.
I think the coolant pipes you use are all Nova, apart from the long one that goes to the heater matrix inlet which is Astra, but not 100% sure (got mine off Turbo_Chris ready made for 2.0 Nova
but is it really that important to seam weld the inside where the chassis legs are spotted to the bulkhead in the engine bay? would i not get away with welding the bit where the chassis leg spots onto the bulkhead/arch under the wheel arches.
no cause thats one of the worst places cause u can only weld 2 of the 4 sides.. in the prep book it says to drill between the spot welds and puddle weld also!!
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